Leo B

OK. So when I adjust the caster angle to positive, the bolt is against the left edge of the groove, thus creating maximum adjustment. It's strange that the fit isn't more precise when the groove is suitable for almost a 9/16 inch bolt, but it's good that the parts are correct. Thanks mfg and Zedman.

Do I have the correct Upper Control Arm Pivot Pin #524227 or is it meant to be like this? I have correct size bolt 3/8 and the hole for that is not exceptionally loose. The Pin locks easy when the bolt is tightened. But... The pin groove allows for a lot of lateral movement and the groove is wider and deeper than intended for a 3/8 bolt. I can fit about a 0.6 inch bolt in the groove. The 3/8 bolt couldn't have made that groove. This greatly affects, among other things, caster adjustment. IMG_6595.mov IMG_6592.mov

Great! If the exhaust pipe curve is original, it will now be positioned lower than normal. Check that the pipe does not hit the steering tie rod. Especially when the front springs are depressed. I have heat riser in correct right side and keep that open without spring.

Should be like this. That looks like a solution of its own.

slk1966 Yep. I will do the adjustement. No problem. Dan Booth wrote me kindly that it's possible to the tie rods with the adjuster located on the outside end. Which works fine. It does not change your alignment if you just turn the tie rod around. He confirmed my thoughts. Anyway I need to work with exhaust pipe to give more space.

I wondered for a long time what the rubbing sound is when turning the car. Now the matter is clear. The left exhaust pipe hits the tie rod clamps when turning the car and when the front sinks lower. I made sure that the exhaust pipe is correctly attached to the exhaust manifold. The engine is also supported with new and correct rubber. I think the exhaust pipe is bent incorrectly. Is there any problem if I turn the short tie rods ends towards the wheels? (long ones towards center)? This would give a little more space between the exhaust pipe and the rod.

Original. Lescoa made Ash Trays etc for Chrysler also like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/127534753074

The original wheel alignment settings where given with the original tires. I think that wide (like 215/70 R15) tires need different alignment settings. or do I keep same alignments like its written in the original Shop manual? Do you have any experiences?

Hope this helps. If you need whole colored wire pdf. I can send you by email.

https://aoai.org/forums/topic/11446-outside-rear-view-mirror-placement/ If the bottom of the mirror is "open", the clamping rubbers will not tighten well. Tip: Place 2 suitably high nuts underneath the mirror leg and between the rubbers, against which the rubbers will tighten. (screws through the nuts).

Since the carpet has worn out and rotted over time, and the red & black carpet is not available (have not found after many years), I am happy to exchange it for a black one according to the serial number.

OK. You mean only Fawn and Black is "Salt & Pepper" color, and by the looks of it. Good explanation. The list of running changes shows red and black for all black 4275. Still... my Avanti is 4543 and it has red and black carpet and a carpet that covers the entire front seat from underneath. I believe it is original. In poor condition and has been there for a very long time. At least in 1976. Also interesting is that the trunk was only carpeted on the bottom. Could this be because my Avanti is a "Las Vegas Driveaway" and has exceptions due to rush or other reasons. R4543 suppose not to include changes to -64. All other things are like -63 model. Even the manual shifter without chrome ring etc.

Running Changes? Salt & Pepper to Black. R-4275

Thanks mgf. Yep I thought the same thing. Twin Track is not a must for sunday cruising use (like I do). But when something interests you and you want to find out and learn ... 🙂 😄 Good to know you have a case if I need it. BTW. Your shipment is here for pickup. I'll pick it up next Tuesday from post office.

63Avanti Parts. Part #1560653. Dished discs and the kit are not available anymore. Avanti Shop Manual shows Fig 16. 1 Dished / concave plate and 2 plates and 2discs. Reassembly text sama page tells also same. These should work. But I dont know total thick. I will test: 1 dished plate 0.095" pointing towards disc 0.064", plate 0.064", disc 0.064", plate 0.064". This combo will pressure (preload) dished plate 0.0866" (2,20 mm) when reassambly has done. Lets see how much torque this will give.

My Avanti Twin Track was not working and when I opened it up, I noticed that some plates were missing. So there was no friction. I ordered new Spicer 22233X kit. Including (per axle): One concave plate 0.095" one plate 0.064", one plate 0.095" and two discs 0.095". Now... The total is too thick. According to my measurements, if the concave plate is 0.095", then all four should be about 0.060 - 0.064 thick when the concave plate is pressed to about 40-50% preload. I can find plenty of pages with installation instructions, but I can't find any information on the original thickness of the plates and discs. Do you have any information?

Hi mgf, This is great. Thanks to you and to whole AOAI members.👏

Thank you mfg 👍

I sprayed consol both side totally 2 layer Lizars Skin. Actually I used this total body front area inside and underside + firewall inside. https://lizardskin.com/heat-protection/ 4-speed shifter, console and firewall are no longer hot.

Got your email. 👍

👍😀

As I understand it, the dana 44 ring and pinion has different versions for different makes and models. As well as different carriers. I have been in contact with many dealers and the manufacturer (Yukon Gears) and nowhere have I found a Ring Gear and Pinion for a Stude 1963 model with the same dimensions. Maybe 1988 is its own thing. If someone knows more, it would be good to understand.

I like to buy your #537637 Ring Gear and Pinion 3.31. email to me leo@belik.fi

Please keep it for me. Can you send your email address to leo@belik.fi