Kodjo

It looks a lot smarter than an air dam! Did anybody try this?

In my 1969 Avanti, that bend is in the valve itself. Is your valve and routing a older solution? Or should the bend be located after the valve in your setup? Just asking, looks great!

Find "Climatizer" on Bob's page: https://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechjan2023p1.html I repaired mine, good for my self confidence 🙂

That is a good way of getting the antifreeze out! It believe 6 bolds in total: 4 under the hood, holding the blower motor against the firewall, 1 in the right footwell at the underside of the heater housing (this one was rusted stuck in my car) and 1 connecting the heater housing to the duct under the dash.

I am not share what you are asking. Do you have a new motor or do you need to buy one? I just opened my motor and oiled the bearings. Works so far. It is easy to get the heater out. The nasty coolant has to come out first. Keep a bucket handy when removing the heater core. And, of course, laying on you back under the dash ain't funny...

Year, but not for 11 dollar!

You can leave the AC alone but the heater has to come out. The motor is attached to the back of the heater core.

The light under the heater? You mean over the airconditioning vents? This comes on when opening the door. The lights on the picture come on with the head lights.

That bulb might fit indeed but I like the red color and stay with the original bulbs.

I have no drip rails. So, when it rains and I open the door, I get wet. Also, the car gets soaked when it rains. So, I need drip rails badly. My car does have the vertical rain gutter on the A-pillars. So, besides the rails, I also need the corner pieces. I live in The Netherlands. If one would ship a set to me I would be really great full! Kodjo

Looks great. I did the same thing but still can't find a bulb that fits. I do not have the metal dome with a small hole that goes over the light bulb. What solution do you have for shifter position indication?

If they are laying there, do they have ground? I've looked at my pictures and there are two wires going to each bulb. Start with investigating what is wrong, no + or no - and work from there.

I'll disassemble the pins this winter. It is in the garage already 😞

In the parts catalog, the drip rail is upside down compared to a rain gutter. That’s why I asked. I’m in The Netherlands. Sending a drip rail that is basically an L shaped piece of metal, from the USA to Europe seems stupid. I’ll make one myself.

My Avanti does leak from the top of the doors. I noticed that my Avanti does not have a rain gutter. So I started to look around and discovered that Avantis have a drip rail (according to the parts manual). As I understand it right, a drip rail is essentially a rain gutter upside down. what is the period correct solution for my ‘69 Avanti? how do I get a rain gutter? Does someone made a drawing? thanks, Kodjo

Hi Bill, it is off-topic, but could you hit the caps lock once please?

I had the same camshaft 😞 after changing the lifters without running-in oil. Now I have a new camshat and lifters. Used run-in oil and still ok. I did have a CompsCam 286H, dat was very "musical" but no vacuuum. Now i have this one: Edelbrock Performer-Plus Camshaft #2102. It is great: Nice vacuum, stable idle, less heat. I sometimes miss the great CompsCam 286H sound. PS: My Edelbrock came in an Compscam box: Same factory. Good luck!

I'm afraid it will not do any good. Dynamat can not reduce heat as it is not an insulator. Noise will not be reduced because Dynamat only kills noise in thin metal structures, not in polyesther structures. But it sure looks good!

I would love to have mine like yours! Would the guy or girl that did this want to make a second set and send it over to the Netherlands? I've got the same seats without headrest. Maybe you can give me an name or address?

Great, the original break quick. PLA is probably better!

Nice car! Looks a lot like mine from 1969 but in better shape. I hope you'll find a good new home for this Avanti!

Hi, I have a lot of play on the kingpins, both left and right. The question is, can I solve this by replacing the bearings or should I also replace the pin itself? The difference in price between bearings only or the complete set is huge. I'm tempted to replace the bearings only. Is there a way to tell or the pin itself is worn? I can not find the diameter specification in the manual. Thanks!

Don't know the value, looks like a lot of work. I do like the interior as I have the same. Must have been popular in '69. I am very interested in the routing of the belts. Got confused with the ones that I have. Do you have a picture?

I stink so two

Thank! Yes, I found the story on studebaker-info. Do you have a link to your blog as well?