Nelson

The master cylinder came today and cosmetically it was dead on. I measured the new one and from the mounting face to the piston in the bore measured 1 1/4 inch which is the same as a Stude master cylinder. The one that was on the car measured substantially less. I have a feeling it wasn’t ever working correctly. This new one is an early 70’s Chrysler with disc brakes. We ordered the disc version thinking maybe it wouldn’t have a check valve. I didn’t take it apart to see. Does anybody know if it has a check valve and if so should I remove it?? I think the bore was the same on the new as the one I took off. I will double check it tomorrow.

I ordered the master cylinder for a 71 Roadrunner.. it looked exactly like the one on the car. We’ll see how it works out. Thanks.

What dual master cylinder is typically used in place of the single unit. Car has original booster and braking system. The one on the car now looks like a Chrysler type but not certain and want to replace with a new one while redoing the original calipers, hoses and rear brake shoes.

I did talk to my friend about the plenum and carb. He will sell them as long as you also purchase his aluminum R3 heads as a package. You would need to talk to him on price. I have no skin in this game just passing on information.

Tim. I think Nemish Salanki has a fairly good reproduction of the 8k tach. And Phil Harris (Fairborn Studebaker) has Moser flanged axles being made for the existing rear end. i also sent you a pm.

I know, Dwight. It’s hard to admit but sometimes you just have to give in. I actually have a set of nos foam for a bucket seat. Still feels pretty good and it will work well for a pattern. Honestly though, you’re old enough to remember the right interior color, grain, vinyl weight and sheen. I’m pretty certain you would prefer the exact component you remember. If I never saw, sat in or felt the original I would accept about anything close. Unfortunately that isn’t the case.

Is memory foam a good choice when redoing Avanti seats? I imagine a closed cell is the standard but was wondering about the the newer memory type.

Geoff. Probably yes but the car is really clapped out. So it depends on what you need. It isn’t my car just helping a friend in Phoenix. I had to fly home this week but will be back out soon. In the mean time you could contact him but you will need to pm me for his contact info. He doesn’t want that information on the net.

Mixture screws are accessible without opening the air box.

I buddy in Phoenix is parting a 63 R2 4 speed car. No engine or trans but lots of other stuff. He has a power steering setup minus the power steering pump. He has the steering box, control valve assembly, power cylinder and bell crank. All as is. He wants $750 for the setup. Also, if interested, the car has excellent California dry frame, title, serial plate, body plate etc. If interested pm me and I’ll forward his contact info.

Probably yes and possibly better if all was equal. Copper is heavier and more expensive. The modern aluminum radiators have the fins and tubes soldered together for better heat transfer. The older copper radiators had the fins just pushed in place. I think later copper units did solder the fins to the tubes so they were efficient but still heavy and expensive. Aluminum is a great conductor and is close to as good as copper so all things considered aluminum is the best choice.

I would think nobody at that price!

I used to think the same thing on the color combination. However, the older I get the more I appreciate the gold/elk.

Whoops, I didn’t read the entire question. One would be the plenum which was more forgiving to altitude changes the other might be the fresh air induction keeping the blower cooler and hp up. Another would be the addition of multiple breathers to reduce crankcase pressure.

I know on the Larks and Hawks they messed with the crank and blower pulley size, not sure on the Avanti.

Shims

It took awhile. The answer seems obvious after you hear the answer.

How about the pulley system? Getting desperate.

Anything to do with the pcv system?

Boost line running to top of fuel pump on R2 might be one?

I’m sure this isn’t it but maybe the throttle kicker and ignition shielding on a radio delete car?

Probably a gallon of base coat but it’s always best to get extra for potential repairs in the future you know the color will match. I will tell you, you should talk with someone that has done the turquoise before just to make sure your formula is correct; I wouldn’t go by a spray can bought from a vendor! Brad Bez has painted some turquoise Avantis and he must have a viable formula for correct match. Also, when they do mix the color MAKE SURE they use the smallest aluminum chop for the metallic. Most shops are use to todays paints which have larger metal flakes. The color formula could be right and if the flake is wrong it will not look right!

Yep. I’d say that about sums it up.

Another reason I bought Tom’s wheels. H lives near Indianapolis and I live in Cincinnati. I was able to pick them up and save a substantial shipping bill. Yes, I admit, ima CASO type of guy and proud of it.😊