Zedman
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On 1/11/2021 at 7:14 AM, IndyJimW said:1981 Chevy Truck C 10 1/2 Ton Pickup 2WDV8-305 5.0L VIN F 4-bblA.I.R. Check valve OEM# 22048212 / AC Delco 214-419 $40.00Catalytic Converter OEM # 8998685 / MagnaFlow 94006 $80.00I've removed my AIR Injection system and it doesn't set any codes, I doubt that a leaking air valve would cause a code. Early emissions systems don't have a long code list.If you do remove the AIR check valve, ONLY TURN THE VALVE!!! The nut on the tubing that goes into the bottom of the valve is welded to the tubing. Turning it will bend and break the tubing.Only one O2 sensor to control carburetor, nothing monitoring exhaust tailpipe gases.Do they test tailpipe emissions in Australia ?I would fix whatever is setting the Engine light code(s), weld in an aftermarket converter and see if it passes.Most of the codes that I've seen in these older systems are vacuum line related. Old, cracked and missing.Good luck,Jim Wood
HI Jim- Sorry about the late reply but I certainly appreciate your input thus far. The temptation to remove the whole emissions setup, Catalytic converter, Computer. Carb and maybe even the distributor is palpable but I reckon I may get pinched when putting it up for initial inspection. If I can find a sympathetic Roadworthy inspector (i think I may know one that will put it over as a '64 Studebaker) I might get away with it. My import authority listed it as Studebaker rather than an Avanti Motor Corps.
In the meantime I am looking at just doing it 'right'- repair and replace. Probably simpler to just fix the obvious stuff and be done with it. I don't believe that they will do an exhaust analysis- nor do we have annual inspections --yet.
I have a listing for the Check valve as ACDELCO 19307616 or equivalent. so assume it will do- sames as for Jaguars....
Thanks very much for the leads on replacement parts- I have an importer that will assist me with cheap freight.
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Hi Jim- There are some rust holes in the casing of the valve. I'm sure that these would make the valve ineffective / inoperable.. You can see it if you zoom in within the red oval I painted in the photo. It might well explain the red 'Check engine' light that came up when I started the engine after the car arrived here. the Catalytic converter is also shot to death and I will need one of those too. Any leads on that one are also appreciated. I would love to just junk all this bloody Emissions rubbish, carb, ECU etc but the Registration authorities here deem that the car must have all this junk intact and operable- even if it enjoys special club permit )minimal use) registration.
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Thanks for the replies from 'StingrayHawaii' and Jim Wood, and particularly the heads up about the likelihood of difficult removal. I saw a replacement manifold air tube assembly on the Summit pages along with a recommended AIR check valve so I might try removing the parts first and order replacements if I bugger-up anything else.
None of this stuff is available in Australia. I found a part code 'AU7T ' for a Chev C10 with a 305 for 1981 . I'm also learned that year saw in some changes to emissions laws and the use of ECM's . Trying to get it right...
Engine is now out of the Chassis. Looking at removal of the front suspension and perhaps fuel lines next trip.
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Before somebody berates me for not knowing better- the car is 60 miles away so I can't go look for myself 🙁.
The part is rusting out and must be replaced- it is apparently the Air Injection system check valve. As there seems to be quite a few variations (and they all look similar) can anybody id the part number for replacement purposes, please?
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On 12/28/2020 at 12:42 AM, Avanti83 said:
I used Aluminum faced fatmat for sound and heat insulation inside the Avanti, DEI exhaust wrap on the head pipes and aluminum heat shields above the mufflers. You can see the heat shields above the mufflers and they are spaced away from the floor. I also put an aluminum shield under the 6-speed slave cylinder.
HI Avanti83- Thanks for this-. I like the idea of heat shields and was considering something similar . I will look for a similar material for insulating the floor as you have done. The exhaust pipe wrapping seems like a good idea also.
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2 minutes ago, Desert Driver said:
That looks nasty! But the heat coming off the exhaust pipes under the floorboards makes for a toasty ride! As long as you have it off the frame, spray Lizard Skin everywhere underneath. And don't neglect the transmission tunnel aft of the firewall. Not only will you cut down heat transfer, but you'll enjoy a much quieter ride.
Hi Desert Driver- Yeah its a mess and I chucked it all out despite wondering exactly what the stuff is. What really concerns me is a replacement for the fibreglass/ silverpaper insulation under the body where the engine exhaust pipes run around where the Cat-converter is. Any suggestions?
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On 12/26/2020 at 7:34 AM, mfg said:
If the original frame WERE to be repaired, this sure would be the way to do it....with the body completely out of the way!
Hi MFG- Yep, absolutely.... Being able to just walk up, see what you are doing, and just 'place' components is huge boon. I found that because the Torque boxes are pretty much non-existent, lifting the body took careful placement of wooden 'cribbing'. Neither of us had done this before and we were afraid of busting the floor (or worse 😨). . I imagine lifting and supporting on good solid HT's would have been much more straightforward.
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On 12/26/2020 at 7:04 AM, PackardV8 said:
Since your body is off the frame, consider spraying the entire underside and inside with LizardSkin Spray-on Heat and Noise Insulation, or the OZ equivalent. The Avanti is incredibly noisy and hot inside by today's standards, so anything done to keep heat and noise out is a worthwhile investment.
jack vines
Thanks Jack, I will look into this... Also, I do need to replace the white insulation I found under the front footwell carpet- Do you know anything about this stuff? (pictured). I'm sure this has been installed in the factory.
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Hi All- I have been a bit of a 'lurker' for r a while on this forum as I have been waiting for progress to occur on my 1981 Avanti II for a long while (long story, somebody else is in care of it and the backstory isn't worth knowing).
At long last, some serious headway is being made !!
The car is in Australia (imported from US in 2015) and has a rusted out rear chassis. It resides with my ex-neighbour, who up to 2018 ran his restoration business in Melbourne but lost his lease and decided to move his operations to his new home in rural Victoria.
The project is to replace the chassis with another one. Torque boxes are shot but new ones are on hand and will be fitted soon. The rest of the car is in fantastic shape with low original miles. Defects in fibreglass will be sorted out and a repaint done. An interesting footnote is that the original chassis will be cleaned up, modified and utilised by my mate in his 1942 Chevy truck Restomod- so it isn't going to the scrappers after all.
Time to get wrenching !!
Steve in Melbourne
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Thanks for the replies everybody- to be frank I caved-in and am looking at buying them in as well as a rear frame crossmember.. Considering I have an engineering trade background it pains me to have to not be able to do this job, but I have a time limit on this project and another person is involved.
Thanks all-
Steve
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Hello All-, I am preparing a replacement frame for my 1981 Avanti II but fear the "perches" indicated in the pic (not my photo BTW) are too corroded for re-use.
I don't have clear access to my own vehicle at present it's 60 miles away and I'm facing a bit of a time-crunch with the contractor helping with this job.
I have access to a friends' Avanti and tried to draw the parts but it's too difficult to do an accurate job of hole centres with so much clutter- I really tried !
Does anybody have a good accurate sketch of these parts that I can use to replicate them ?
Steve
RGB3269
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Well done Brad- You are obviously well practised at this task..... any advice noteworthy?
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On 2/19/2019 at 10:28 PM, NHcamper said:
Is this the car advertised for 16,000 that said it needed frame work! It was strange because the ad said a lot of work had been done to the car.
No, it wouldn't be the car you' described. My car was advertised in early 2015 or possibly late 2014 with a lot of really good photos. It was located in Roseville, Sacramento California. The advertised price was $6000 USD and nobody would bite on it because the ad stated frame was shot over the rear axle and beyond and the radiator needed replacing (had a hole too big to fix) . The owner inherited it and parked it for 17 years. He did nothing else to it and was keeping it out of sentimentality. I secured the car for a significantly lower sum and my agent shipped it off to a freight forwarder in Long Beach- thence on to Australia. Since the prices for Avanti II's has gone nuts since then I consider myself fortunate to have gotten this one irrespective of the task I have at hand. It is my humble belief that all Avantis of whatever iteration, are likely to be extremely valuable eventually.
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Hi Stacey- I started the thread that Bill was quoting. One of my specific questions - hitherto unanswered by anyone- was what kind of welding procedure and/or rods should we use when weldinga a Studebaker frame. Can you elucidate on that score please?
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Yep, that fits my mentality fairly well-
18 hours ago, studegary said:The New Jersey reg. plate helps to tell the story. Keep in mind that a 1980 is 39 years old now.
The vendor's father owned it in NJ. When his dad died, the vendor inherited it and drove it across the US to Sacramento and parked it for 17 years. Whilst the car was well sheltered and kept cocooned, the tin worms continued their work. I swear, the interior still smells new.
19 hours ago, mfg said:WOW!
....The bottom plate looks healthier than the upper "hat" section!!
It's still standing up!!?? (thank God)
18 hours ago, studegary said:The New Jersey reg. plate helps to tell the story. Keep in mind that a 1980 is 39 years old now.
tragic isn't it....?. I also have a 61 Hawk off its frame too, but at least it isn't Fibreglass.
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21 hours ago, Jim78 said:
If I may borrow from JFK's speech about going to the moon, "...and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard... " No doubt, he was talking about frame replacements! ?
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Hello all and thanks for your thoughts and advice. I did not mention this before but I have been presented with a time crunch- my body man has been given notice to vacate his premises at the end of his lease. We need to get this job done; period. On the subject of the engine I expected suggestions to get rid of the 305 but my priority is getting the car driveable with what it came with and the least expenditure. I may not even get the chance for a partial rebuild after all. For that reason the 305 is being retained and so will the exhaust. I expected the Torque Boxes would be a MIG prospect being thin materials and thanks for the advice on that score- I will pass it on. Interestingly, I was sent Stainless units by Classic Enterprises (and charged accordingly) despite actually specifying Mild steel. Stainless will be fine, but a bit overkill 'cos we don't salt our roads here in sunny Australia. I was actually hoping to be able to repair the chassis rails at the rear but the corrosion was awful (from the sellers photos) and I started looking for alternatives. as far as welding is concerned I am looking for advice apropos welding on the frame- can anybody give me any info on the nature of the steel there? I knew what I was in for when I bought this car and It was a dead-set bargain even considering the crappy frame and shot radiator. Some of you guys might recognise one photo from Craigslist. Thanks MFG for the spring advice- I will be using the old springs as-is for now but if I get a chance I'll clean 'em up and re-bush. The Gantry was of little value because the lift height is limited. We jacked it up sequentially.
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Hi All- I have an Avanti II 1981 model that is having the body lifted from the frame. At this stage we have the body supported up high enough to see through from one side to the other above the amidships frame rails . The idea is to replace the frame with a good short wheelbase 109" Lark unit (I already have this available) and convert it according to the specs diagram and direct comparison with the original. No repair will be done to the original because it is rust damaged and is serving as a donor for all the body mounts and the big 'X' member so it will end up chopped up anyway. If anybody has any advice to offer on the project, I'd really appreciate it before we bog into it. The rear body 'Perches' and tubular Crossmember are likely to be replicated as I know they are pretty ugly, but I aim to utilise as much original componentry as possible / if viable. Fuel lines and brake lines are truly 'fubar' and will be replicated. The car has stood for 17+ years and is remarkably good everywhere else and has low mileage. I have had it running but not for long and was too scared to drive it due to the non existent strength of the rear frame (I don't know how it's still standing up !). One query I have is relating to the orientation of the Upper Control Arm Inner shafts. Should I rotate these at the time of rebuild to compensate for front crossmember sag (loss of Camber angle) or is that only a problem with Studebaker engined cars? I will be replacing the Timing chain and believe many of the camshafts in these era 305 CID's were soft - any advice on checking this is welcome also. My body man will be replacing the non existent passenger side Torque Box before the final lift so as to provide more rigidity during the process. Both will be replaced with Stainless Steel units from Classic enterprises. Where welding is required can anybody advise me on anything salient on that topic like welding rod composition etc.
Regards-
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Hi M&M- I will send you a PM..... just my opinions ?
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Thanks all for the input- it has made me feel far better about pulling the engine down for complete inspection. I found what I believe to be sparkplug anti-foulers on three sparkplugs when I finally got my hands on the car . Because I was assured the car has genuine low mileage (56,000 !!), I felt they were there out of the car possibly being "under driven" and oil fouling might actually clear up. After all said and done, a freshen up all round ought to be in order I suppose. Suspect camshaft will be resolved in the long run I suppose.
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Hi- I own 1981 Avanti II RGB 3269 and it will be undergoing a chassis replacement. I have heard that Chev 305 engines of this era were renowned for having soft Camshafts. How do I tell if that's the case with mine? I have had the car running (it had been laid up for 17 years prior) and it started an ran fairly well for a car that long dead, however. I was planning to replace the timing chain and adjusters as a matter of course but I'd be silly to ignore the camshaft question and I really don't want to go into a rebuild if it's not really necessary. Any advice?
radius rod bracket
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
Hi Rob- I note you have no replies on this problem. I believe you will have to swell the ranks of the intrepid and join some of us in a body /frame lift up to undertake this job with confidence 🤔. I have no idea what your car's condition is like but you can possibly look forward to doing a but of 'restoration / refreshment work into the bargain. Looking at the task from that perspective- a silver lining perhaps? Maybe the job can be done with the body raised high enough to facilitate the weld repair and bypass my previous suggestion...
Steve
RQB3269 (undergoing a Frame swap and partial resto)