Zedman
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Posts posted by Zedman
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3 hours ago, brad said:
You can take the 4 9/16 hex head bolts out. leave the smaller 5/16 bolts in the center. they hold the inside brake brackets to the firewall. The nuts are captive, and you don't need to climb inside to hold the nuts. However, the washer bottle does have nuts underneath for you to be able to remove it without damage.
Hi Brad- nicely explained; thank you 👍
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Being proactive, I looked to replacing/overhauling the power Brake Booster in my '81 rebuild rather than waiting for the original 40yo unit to fail. I'm led to believe the Cardone overhauled 54-73105 (AMC cars) is the one to go for. Problem is that there doesn't seem to be much of a supply of 'em from the likes of Summit Racing, et-al. I'd like some leads on current suppliers of remanufactured units or even where I can get parts and do my own (done it before....long time ago). Kindly, before anyone suggests sending one for repair in the USA.... 'taint gunna happen (🙃 down under).
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6 hours ago, pantera928 said:
I THINK there are nuts on the inside but not sure. I KNOW that the washer reservoir is secured from under the dash.
I can check on my car and see about that bracket
Thanks Pantera, that's appreciated 👌.
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I have removed the Power Brake booster for reconditioning and noted the support Brackets/mechanism is going to look lousy after I spruce everything else up around it. I want to take it off and clean it up. If I take the four screws out, is there anything on the other side of the firewall that is going to fall off? The reason I'm asking is that the body is being supported by a gantry and straps- floating in mid air- so I can't open the doors for some time. While I'm asking, how is that Window washer reservoir retained - I hate to bust it pulling on it. 😬
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On 2/18/2023 at 5:04 PM, GeoffC312 said:
My existing frame and torque boxes are gone-zoh. Well to be fair, a lot more than that is toast. My poor car was sitting for longer than two decades, getting acquainted with plant life. And the sunroof leaked, so there's that. If I recall correctly last she was road worthy was 1998.
This picture the prior owner took just after she was removed from living the plant life. The section of the tires buried in mother Earth is visible; lots of the low metal pieces were taking dirt naps. An '84 or '85 "on the dismantler's doorstep" was what I wanted to start with. I found one!
I like the idea of no torque boxes, and that this route can be made more durable.
Hi Geoff- My apologies if you thought I was treading on your toes, I don't mean to- you have got far more guts than I ! I just believe you may well get your Avanti on the road and driving a lot quicker by going the factory route. I am well down that track already and it is a significant opus I can tell you. What are you doing with the existing Chassis? Are you going to repair it or opt for another one? Good luck with this project and have fun.
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On 2/14/2023 at 10:09 AM, GeoffC312 said:
I'm hoping so. My goals are to make that area lighter and more durable (stronger and rust resistant). The torque boxes are known rust items and I don't want to rely on scheduling repairs every so often.
I will mount a belly pan to the bottom of my frame and I'll be storing my car circa Thanksgiving, bringing her back out circa Tax Day each year but I have heard how labor intensive it is to remove and replace torque boxes. I don't mind spending more time on it once and being finished with it.
Hi GeoffC- I have my Avanti II body completely off the Chassis and a new one nearing completion & paint very soon. I would direct your attention to this Blog- http://hogtrough.blogspot.com/
It entails the whole operation with lots of commentary and diagrams. The added benefit is that it stresses there is no need to cut fibreglass.
I will be utilising this Blog very soon and believe the whole job to be much easier still, because the Body is already up. Likewise, you have already done the hard part !
I already have the replacement two-piece Torque Box kit. Funnily enough, when I ordered these from Classic Enterprises, I specifically chose mild steel ('cos here in Australia- we don't get snow and salt combinations!), but they charged me extra and sent Stainless steel anyway- (Duh... read guys, please!). In any case - Stainless would eliminate the corrosion problem in your case and they aren't all that heavy either.
Would it be expedient to just renew the old ones?
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Regarding the positioning of the "Pirate Buckles"- Andy Beckman at the Studebaker National Museum would probably be able to source a factory diagram for the exact location. A cost is involved , however.
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I've been musing over putting one of these hood ornaments on my '81. Looks like I'm not alone on this score after all ! Well done on the Loewy nod, Footer ! 👌
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I still have a photograph, somewhere, of the first Studebaker Avanti I ever laid eyes on at a National meet held in Spotswood, Melbourne, in 1975 by the Studebaker Car Club of Australia. I was very new to the marque and was utterly staggered to view a 63 and 64 Avanti side by side. The red R2 63 had been converted to right hand drive by the owner here in Oz. I thought, '"What the heck are these things"! Both had the Studebaker script on them so I figured there had to be a story behind them and was keen to find out more, and soon did. I had my roll of film processed to prints and showed my dad the Avantis. His first reaction was typical of his generation.... "That can't be a Stew-dee-Baker !". Not to be an isolated retort from older Aussies that remember the Studebaker marque. I had no concept that I would become an owner of one many years later.
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4 hours ago, Steve-Avanti said:
FWIW...I replaced the master cylinder on my 77 with a rebuilt unit from Rock auto. It was a perfect fit & cross referenced from a 67 Ford Cyclone with a 390 & front disc brakes. No issues in 5 years.
Thanks Steve 👌
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6 hours ago, pantera928 said:
FWIW, I have had great luck with Centric
Good news- thanks Pantera.
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10 hours ago, mfg said:
I installed the Ford style master cylinder, which you are considering, on my '83 Avanti several years ago...and have had no problems with it
Thanks for the advice MFG 👌
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10 hours ago, 1963r2 said:
Any competent brake rebuilder should be able to re sleeve and match the seals.
10 hours ago, 1963r2 said:Any competent brake rebuilder should be able to re sleeve and match the seals.
Pb
Hi Peter- The plunger assembly in this unit has had the centre pin swaged over, which prevents disassembly of the middle seal. I'm looking at a 'work around' for this issue because, I agree, new seals would probably be available.
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I have removed the master cylinder from my '81 Avanti II to ascertain its viability for re-use. The car is undergoing a Re-Frame and everything is being worked on. Alas, there is a small area of pitting in the bore and I daresay the rubber parts are not to be trusted. What I'd like to do is recondition the original cylinder and sleeve it in Stainless steel but I'd need to find a kit to replace the old 'guts'. I have searched the Internet but have not come up with any leads. So first question is - anybody know of a supplier for such ?
Now, I've checked and I know that I can replace the whole kaboodle with a 'Centric' 130.61026 version or a few others that retain the original 15/16" bore, but I like fixing stuff and a seal kit is a damn-sight less expensive to ship across the Pacific as well !
BTW, has anybody used the Centric unit and could vouch for it?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ceb-130-61026/make/ford/model/torino/year/1969
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Looking forward to doing this job in the new year... Needed 80 lbs of dried river sand to adequately wet blast my 'X' frame, alone, but after phosphating it came up really well. We don't use salt on the roads 'downunder', so the next Frame oughta last longer than the original. 😉
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13 hours ago, wildfelr said:
RQB3263/305 ... Good MORNING from North AMERICA ... Thanks for the info .... the 700R4 OD works fine with the 305 .... I did de-pollute it completely, installed an RV torque Cam, and true SS dual exhaust...it almost never sees 2000RPM, 70MPH is 1850RPM.... everything helps a little bit.... and it all works fine to make a pleasurable cruiser... keep up the good work .....BILL in FL
Hi Bill- thanks for the info. I have RQB 3269 and I note that our two cars were "close on the line" as if it were. I'm keen to go to a proper dual exhaust system and lose the Catalytic converter, but laws in my state are a bit contradictory on that score (might have to add two small ones if I'm forced to have 'em). The possibility of the 'soft cam' problem is an unknown at present so since I will be replacing the Timing gear and Chain, I reckon the Camshaft and Lifters will be swapped out for new ones too. Air pollution gear needs to be retained as a matter of law over here, but ya never know....
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Just for the record, it's a Dana 44 and without another tag on the cover, I'm assuming its not a Twin Traction. I was wondering how an overdrive would go with the 2.72:1 but it appears that is Ok by you guys. Any MPG figures? Thanks for the feedback. 👌
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I have gotten around to cleaning up the Rear Axle of my 1981 Avanti II and was curious about the ratio of the gears.
It appears I have a 2.72 : 1 pair which I was, frankly, happily suprised to see. I would welcome some feedback about how 'economical' this gearing will be with a stock 305 ci motor in good condition- particularly on highway cruises. Any info?
Whassat?....
- No, I don't wanna swap it for a 350..... N
- "If I'm gunna drive an Avanti why should I care about fuel consumption"- well I'm curious, that's all J and....
- Would be nice to have a point of reference if I make "slight modifications" in future (camshaft, exhaust system, carb, Distributor, et al...)
Regards
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I happened to speak with a member of our club who said that he had bought a smashed Avanti II a number of years back. He said he made up a framework using another Avanti for reference and re-laid the fibreglass to replicate a new panel section. The "impossible" is not always so - it just takes more effort ! A daunting task but obviously not impossible. It may be worth considering a similar route seeing most of the structure is already there.
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There is no O-ring at the bottom of the pickup tube as far as I know, nor on the Pressure regulator inlet. The swaged bead at the bottom of the tube is simply for locating purposes. The upside down screen will keep the mesh out of any muck that sits on the bottom of the pan. There is no magnet in the indentation but I suppose you might try placing one in there if you wish.
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I am undertaking a Frame replacement at this time so I am familiar with what it looks line "in the nude" as if it were.
We obviate the necessity to remove the frame from the body- I believe it can be straightened using force and lots of heat. Once it is apart, I'm sure it will not look so daunting a task. Your alternative is to try finding a SWB Frame and modifying it (as I have done) locally or importing one. For this reason you have nothing more to lose by having a go at repairing what you have now. I'm surprised that beefy 'X" member is actually bent, but of course it is. I would enlist the auspices of a fibreglass specialist; perhaps one that is engaged with boat repairs. I do believe it is repairable rather than merely savageable- and finally, think of it as saving just one more Avanti from being scrapped to save another. Just my humble opinion, mind.
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My compliments on a really nice outcome ! 👌 I have to re lay all new sound deadener/ Insulation on the floor of my Avanti. What material did you use? Is normal household Jute underlay OK for this job? I note the original stuff is a white material of some sort 🙂
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Hope this helps.... is this what you need?
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Hi Gary- I once had a 65 Mustang convertible that seemed to steer all over the road when I first got it. It was awful- kind of twitchy. I found it's front wheel toe-in was very excessive (nearly 2"!). Once I adjusted it back to only 1/8" it drove incredibly more comfortably. Have a quick check of your Toe-In amongst all the other salient points.
1983 RBQ-3616 Dropping Frame???
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Zedman
Hi SCPO-PD. I am well advanced into the re-framing of RQB3269 and feel I can probably guide you if you wish to remove the Chassis from the Body. If your Frame is badly rusted out, I would start looking for a good donor Chassis from a Studebaker Daytona/ Wagonaire or short wheel base (109" wheelbase) chassis that you can cut the X frame out of and weld it back into the siderails, albeit more work. The latter method probably provides a more plentiful resource, however.
It is not as daunting a task as what you may think, but you will need space to store the body, new Chassis and old chassis. The body will not need to be lifted off the chassis as high if you remove the engine and transmission early in the piece and remove road wheels and suspension parts onto the ground (creative thinking needed sometimes- i.e. lower the frame and support the body). Once you have the body off and away you can support it on 20 gallon drums and tackle rusty Torque boxes with comparitive ease. Rather than bore the bejesuz out of everybody on this forum with my rantings, please feel welcome to contact me privately and I can offer my own experience. I'd like to commend you in advance for what I suspect is the 'saving' of a limited resource ! 👌 Just what is your Avanti like?