Zedman
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Posts posted by Zedman
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Looks like I may have to put myself at the mercy of the inspecting engineer when I present the car. It will be interesting as to what solution will be suggested.
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Do Avanti II doors circa 1981 have any 'Anti Intrusion Bars' included in their construction? It appears I will get away with deleting the Catalytic Converter (Yay!) and be able to install an earlier style dual exhaust, but Australian Design Rules for 1981 will require side intrusion bars within the doors. A lot of 1970 US built musclecars imported here have had to had Bars made up and installed.
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On 6/13/2022 at 6:04 AM, WayneC said:
Thanks, I was hoping for a less-expensive (much simpler to implement) original replacement valve.
Hi Wayne- I wondered whether this one might be a good alternative.... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pv-2
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Reply for Wayne- The Kelsey-Hayes proportioning valve sold by Nostalgic autos is marked as the replacement for earlier units. This valve also comes with a poppet type pressure switch. I'd suggest having a look at it here.... https://www.nostalgicmotorcars.net/store/p18/1971-1985_Avanti_Brake_Combo_Valve_kit%2C_not_Studebaker_Avanti_.html#/
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Hi Gill. I am replacing my original Frame with a new one (well- one made up from a SWB Lark and welding all the necessary accotrements back onto it). I'm working in primitive conditions, so I can only hope you are better off !
- If you are able to use the 4 point lift to get the body up, can you leave it up there whilst all the other work gets done? This solves lots of other problems.
- If you must take the body off the hoist, you may support it by simple wood blocks under the front A pillar mounting positions and under the rear wheel arch with a long length of timber. I have been told you can even support the whole shebang on timbers supported by 20 litre steel drums. You might even wish to consider integrating the whole issue into a moveable "Dolly", however.
- Beware that the back window and rear body will be heavier than the front- don't ask me how i found this out !🙄
- Whilst I have taken out the front seats and pulled up a bit of carpet I have left back seats in place and left the doors shut. I can open these doors whilst it is suspended but I choose not to because I just don't wish to tempt fate.
- Just my humble opinion, mind, but this task may take longer than you think- now is a fantastic opportunity to replace spring bushes, freshen springs, rebuild the front suspension, paint the hell out of everything....
Regards- Steve
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15 hours ago, 1963r2 said:
Steve,
I did reply but it seems to have disappeared.
I don't have that bracket on my Chassis but there is two holes on the inner rear chassis ( drivers side) near the rear cross member where I think that bracket would fit.
I suspect it may be the bracket that holds one side of the fuel tank on the Lark. Maybe it was left on the A11 chassis or it is off the replacement chassis.
Have a look in that area.
Peter
Hi Peter- thanks for your feedback- The culprit was removed from the 'Donor' SWB chassis. My mate says it needed to come off for the sake of authenticity, but I will check on it .
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On 5/14/2022 at 9:37 PM, 1963r2 said:
From memory it goes on the inside of the chassis rail towards the rear.
Look for a spot on the chassis that has two holes that match the two on the bracket.
In the meantime I will have a look at my chassis next time I'm at work for the exact location.
pb
Hi Peter- Thanks mate I will check next time I am in front of the project (it's 60 miles away!). By all means if you can identify it further, please do let me know. regards, Steve
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On 5/15/2022 at 10:39 AM, AD said:
Zedman,
I was just doing some service work today on my "72 Avanti and I noticed a similar plate inside the right inner fender. The charcoal canister mounts to the other side under the hood. Could this be what you're looking for?
Thanks AD, for taking the time to check. Nope not in there, either.
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On 5/12/2022 at 10:44 PM, Gunslinger said:
Just a guess on my part but I think it's a corner stiffener for the frame. In the mid-'70s Avanti Motors ran out of original Avanti frames and started using somewhat lighter gauge frames from standard Larks and added the X-member and stiffeners to bring them up to original specs.
Thanks Gunslinger... still hoping I can match the pitch of the bolts to something, unless somebody chirps-in. I should mention the frame I am using as a donor is an 'Export' chassis from a V8 2 door car used by the Victoran police dept. The frame rails, as per the 59 to 64 shop manual, are listed having thicker (11ga.) material, so I think I have an advantage on that score. They also have holes and reinforcement for the steering boxes on both sides, so no extra work required there.
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Hi Wayne- I have had a browse of the site I reported on. The fellow has a lot of stock apropos other makes of cars there and information provided is extremely good. I would give him a yell and see what transpires. I believe there were some changes to Avanti brakes back in the mid '70's but I've no detailed knowledge of it.
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Hi All- I have posted an article in the SDC Technical forum relating to reconditioning information/resources for our Brake Proportioning Valves. In view of a number of neglected Avanti's being restored, I felt the dearth of information relating to these valves would be worth rectifying. For your perusal https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/1943891-avanti-ii-brake-proportioning-valve-information
Regards, Steve.
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The part pictured is an 1/8" steel plate removed from somewhere on the Frame of my Avanti II. I say 'somewhere', because this is what happens when two persons work on the same project. Usual methodical cataloguing and photographic recording missed this culprit. 🤨 I thought it was a 'Shim' or 'Doubler' for the engine mounts, because it is similar looking and it came off the frame at the time the mounts were removed. I'm hoping that somebody can tell me where this part lives and/or what it's for.
It was a bit out of shape so I flattened it out before cleaning and painting it- there was some original black paint on it which made me think it was located inside the front crossmember out of the way of salt.
As a footnote- the rusty Frame has been reduced to one part. We now have to cut all the various mountings and 'X' member out so they can be relocated on a donor SWB Lark frame. Needless to say we are going carefully on this procedure, with accuracy and weld quality being paramount.
Regards, Steve
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Anything else!...we recently tried a Carlton breweries "Black Ale"....damnn good 🙃
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Geeze, is that all !? 😊 . "From small beginnings, great things cometh !"
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15 hours ago, mfg said:
Yes, the fiberglass roof panel may have separated...on the other hand the leak may have occurred due to clogged moonroof drain tubes.
Thanks for the Heads up on this , I never had much of an opportunity to check the sunroof when I got the car- I will have a look when I get an opportunity( Its 60 miles away and in bits right now.)
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Thanks for this topic- I had no idea !. My moonroof was found to be siliconed shut and still is.
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Seeing Studebaker rolled employees on their superannuation in 'the 63 closure, maybe there might hve been a few mire old-timers still in employment ! 🤐 I'll bet on 19.
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Board..🙃
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Thanks for the feedback this far everybody.... Pantera, thanks for the kudos mate - we do have a bit of a drink after each work session but it's never VB (rubbish, there is far better than that to be had nowadays ! 😋). As Gunslinger suggests- I would prefer to do away with it- mainly based on the available space (the original was one skinny bugger). Our legislation states that cars pre 1986 manufacture don't need a Cat, BUT on another line elsewhere states that if the car was manufactured using a Cat, it is to retain it. I'm preparing for one scenario but hoping for another. Bottom line is I don't want a s@!t fight with Vicroads when I go for club registration. Futher query... will it matter if the EGR system is not connected to it if I do replace the Cat with one without provision for such ?
Steve
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Hi All- I would like to get some direction on replacing a Catalytic Converter in my 1982 Avanti II. My vehicle is undergoing a frame transplant and yesterday, I removed the Catalytic Converter before we start cutting off mountings, 'X' frame and other hard-points for welding into a replacement Studebaker Lark SWB chassis.
I have two questions-
My friend, who is assisting me with much of the work, commented on the very poor presentation of what appears to be a clearance cutout in the RH side frame rail bottom flange to accommodate one corner of the original Cat Converter. He believes that the Cat is not original and 'butchery' was performed to clear it, because " the presentation of the lousy weld doesn't compare with the other weldments on the Frame, and I don't believe its a factory job". This cutout is indeed a poorly presented piece of work, but I told him the Cat is original as there is a picture of the same type on page 45 of John Hull's book. So my first question- to settle an argument- is, was this lousy rough cut-out indeed a Altman & Newman era factory procedure? We are taking great pains to ensure we replicate my new frame in great detail but we're damned if we are going to reproduce this clearance cut. Picture-
Next question- Can anybody advise as to a replacement for this original, very flat Catalytic converter and does it essentially need the EGR system pipe attachment? I don't believe I'm going to get away with deletion of the Cat when I finally road register the car so I will be needing a replacement.
Regards Steve, RQB3269
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If your alternator is adjusted up so high as to be contacting the Hood, I'm assuming that there is plenty of adjustment available in a downward direction. What I'm suggesting is you obtain another 'A' series Vee belt that is an inch or two inch shorter than the one you have. This way, you could lower the Alternator but still have enough tension on the belt to eliminate squeal. Perhaps pirvhase another belt at an industrial supplies outlet rather than at a automotive dealer so you can tell 'em you "want an A-40" (for example).
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21 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Very rare 1961 Avanti II
Typo ! .... 1981, to wit, RQB 3269.
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I have recently removed the entire power steering system as a whole from my 1961 Avanti II as part of a full Frame replacement job. I intend on overhauling the Control Valve as a matter of preventative maintenance as the car sat idle for 17 years before I acquired it. On inspection, I noted the distance between the Control valve grease nipple and the centre of the Reach Rod (grease nipple) was exactly 15 1/4 " . The Shop manual states simply 15" . In the interests of doing this job correctly, is there any difference between the original shop manual specification and the later chevy-engined Avanti II's? Do I just reassemble as found ? Also, In the interests of convenient disassembly, It appears must I extract the Pitman Arm from the Steering Gear as the ball stud on there is not removable?
Regards, Steve.
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Hi All-
Is it possible to fit a new cam into a Chevy engined Avanti II while it is in situ in the engine bay ? I have an 1981 305 which i believe have some 'suspect' bumpsticks. To be honest, I don't even know if mine is crook- I only ran the engine for 10 mins before tearing the car apart. The engine is in the frame but the body is off and I know I have a 'special' opportunity here. Frankly, though, I just wonder whether I really even need to do this job at all, just let it be and worry about it later- hence my original question.
Steve
I don't know Chevy engines
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
It took me two days to figure out getting all the plugs out when I got my Avanti II home. I got a real shock- " I'll just whip these out and lube the cyls with a squirt of oil and start her up..." I am naturally "resistant" to anything that 'Butchers' the originality of our cars, but I have to give some creedence to hole-sawing out some nice well placed holes in the skirts one day...🙃