Ron Dame
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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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That's a good idea!
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I like the crows foot idea. My dizzy wrench is a box end, so I don't think it would work. But I have a new sender and gauge ans still observe this.
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When I bought my Avanti last year, at 64,000 miles it had about 50 PSI on the road, hot, and about 30 at idle. Earlier this year, I noticed that the top pressure was about 40. I changed the oil and filter, and there was no change. Though I used to have a mechanical gauge for testing, I had installed it in another car and no longer have it. The cost of a new one was about the same as a new pressure sender, so I did the obvious and replaced the sender with a new Stewart Warner unit, but there was no significant change. One thing I did notice ( I think that maybe it did it before, maybe not) was that the needle ticked up several PSI at a time instead of moving smoothly. Still I had adequate pressure, so I put it on the back burner.
I recently got a good buy on an NOS S/W gauge, thinking that maybe the needle was sticking. But there was only a modest change in pressure readings and no change in the needle action. As it is now, when I start, it takes a moment for the gauge to jump to 20, then in 5 lb increments to 35 cold idle.Then just starting to drive, it will jump to 42 PSI cold. Then I have the exact same pressures fully warmed up and the needle acts the same. As the pressure sender is such a pain to remove and replace, I'm hesitant to buy another mechanical gauge and see what it reads and how it acts.
Is this normal activity for a Stewart Warner gauge? Or is there something odd in the engine?
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Oh wow. I finally found one on fleaBay and itll be here tomoorw. thanks anyway!
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1980 Avanti II. All I find new are either plastic bezels or chrome, or 100 PSI. If anyone is parting out an Avanti II with the electric gauge, please let me know
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Thanks regnalbob!
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On 7/9/2023 at 2:10 PM, regnalbob said:
Avanti Workshop Manual, Climatizer and Ventilating System section, pages 6&7.
Sonofabitch, mine is missing that entire section! It's a used manual, so whoever took it and why will remain a mystery. Would you care to scan and email me please? rdame58@gmai.com
Avanti Parts Catalog, page 176.
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Both of my vents appear to be non-functional, regardless of where the lever on the console is, the vents remain open and the hot air coming in quickly overcomes the air conditioner.
I see nothing in the Avanti repair manual on where the flaps are, the cable routing, etc.. Who can give me some guidance?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the info! It's great to hear good things about vendors, and not just the bad things.
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Thanks everyone. Is there a reason the entire roof panel is replaced, rather that fitting in a section to replace the glass area? That seems like overkill, but what do I know?
I do have a glass on my way, my intent is to have a fixed glass moonroof, likely using windshield urethane adhesive as opposed to silicone which is known to fail. I'll remove much of the old assembly and make supports as needed before sealing the glass in place. Is this an idea doomed for failure?
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12 hours ago, pantera928 said:
what is the actual dimension of the hole in the top of the car? Mine looks to be
16 7/8" x 35.5"
MIne is 16 13/16" x 35 1/2", so that's it. I have one on the way, but the glass is scratched. At least it's not broken or cracked.
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Bump. I'm still looking!
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On 3/29/2023 at 11:06 AM, wildfelr said:
RQB3263/81/305 ..... YES ..... I DID MINE LAST YEAR during the stainless steel exhaust installation...with the old original exhaust out of the way it was easy...and had never been off since 1981 .... ....it was unbelievably clean ...but still very worth doing ....30 minute job.... have fun ....bill in florida
Thanks! My to-do list keeps growing, but I'm glad this won't be a terrible job.
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I'm reviving an old topic.
My 1980's moon roof glass is broken.. not just cracked.. and leaking ,despite flex seal and duct tape. It had already been glued shut with silicone, so I don't even know if the motor works, or what shape the rails, drain tubes, and the bonding to the body are. The replacement glasses I have found are all different sizes than mine, so I'm considering deleting it all together.
Nostalgic will sell and entire roof panel, but it's a massive job. I am considering removing the entire moon roof assembly and just closing the opening with fiberglass. Has anyone done this, and can you give advice?
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The search function ...uh.. is not helpful, and that's the best I'll say.
Can the oil pan on a 350 be removed without removing the entire engine, and if so, what needs to be done?
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Can the glass on the later (1980) gauges be removed and cleaned similarly to the earlier ones? Mine are nasty and I'd like to switch to red bulbs anyway
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Bump:
How do I get the panels off of either side of the evaporator?
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Dang, it's not the right size. Thanks anyway.
I finally had some help holding the tape this morning and got much better dimensions, glass trim to glass trim: 16 13/16" x 35 1/2"
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Asheville, NC. But check the dimensions of the glass, there were a few different sizes through the years. Mine is 17" x 35.5", not 34.5 as I originally posted. I'll try and edit that post
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I thought I'd start pulling the trim panel to get to the expansion valve better while waiting to get the R12 evacuated. ... Now I have a new snag. Where I suspected I had screws holding the panel in, it seems more like a glob of metal, almost like it is soldered in place, which is justn plain silly. Nonetheless, What kind of fasteners hold the panels in, and how do I remove them ( 1980)?
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15 hours ago, pantera928 said:
You may have an expansion valve stuck closed. I try to achieve around 30 PSIG on the low side and 2.5 times the ambient temperature in degrees F on the high side so if it was was 70 degrees F, then 2.5 times 70 would be 175 PSIG. You are obviously a little low but even with those pressures, you should see some cooling.
It must be stuck then, as it has no cooling at all. Guess it's time for a 134A changeover.
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I'm still in need of the sunroof glass, some parts have broken out and now I have glass, duct tape and flex seal, but still have leaks. The glass only is 17" x 35.5". If I get the rest of the assembly too, that's OK, but prefer the glass only. Thanks!
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I fixed the fan switch and now the compressor runs as intended. Today we got to the low 70's so it was time to check pressures. Please note, I don't know much from a practical aspect of A/C systems.
The system is still R12 and at 1500 RPM showed about 4 on the low side and 145 on the high, so it's clear I am undercharged. Outlet temp was actually higher that ambient temp, maybe 80F or so. I've got dye in the system, and so far find no leaks. I don't know when it was last serviced. I'll look again tomorrow. ASSuming I find no leaks tomorrow, is the leak so small as to be negligable, and so what do I do? The professional/legal reason is to change compressor oil and recharge with 134A, or change the compressor (A6) and recharge, replacing the drier/accumulator of course. Maybe hoses too. Or in a less legal/professional manner, can I top it off, and with what?
PS, I will crosspost this on other sites so I get as many good and bad suggestions as possible!
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Fonts, schmonts... why they hell do they have to advertise that it's a clock, Pantera? That's enough to make me not want that, though maybe I could use my existing face on it.
A/C vents spitting water
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Thea, my 1980, has air conditioning again, after repairing leaks and a bad TXV, with a conversion to R134a. I'm still running the A6 compressor and original condenser, pressures look normal for any given temp and at 90F ambient ( probably higher in the garage and under the hood) the vent temp is mid to upper 40's, though my thermometer isn't that easy to read.
Now it spits water, only from the side/ ankle vents. The console vents are dry. I thought it was the drain hose, but it, and the nipple are clear, and oddly dry, though admittedly only in the garage after servicing and not driving. A puff of compressed air didn't seem to move any trash away, as the problem still exists.
Ideas?