Ron Dame
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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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Thats right Ronmafredi. All is normal until I turn on teh headlights
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With the headlights off, all lights work normally.
With them on, there is current back feeding to the right signal indicator on the dash, and sometimes the right brake light works, sometimes it does not, but only when the headlights are on.
I cleaned both front and rear light sockets on the right and used dielectric grease. The ground on the front was confirmed with almost no voltage drop. The back socket where it connects to the light body is clean and greased, though I don't think this is the primary ground, if any ground at all. I ran a temporary ground from the right light socket to the left (which acts normally) but this did not solve the issue. I've attempted to find the proper ground for the RR lamps, with no avail.
What am I missing?
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LeoB and Silverstude, all I can say is that it works. and it's not much different than Dan Booth's solution, though I had not considered the bouncing and potential to break the hood, hence his use of the TP and shop rag.
As far as safety, as stated, there is a positive pressure above the hood that keeps it from rising more than a couple of inches, yet it apparently offers enough air to flow out of the engine compartment that it works. For me anyway. I accidentally discovered this when I for got to latch the hood and saw the hood raise a bit on teh highway, but not much. And the engine never got overly warm that hot day.
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When my A II starts getting warm, I pop the hood, driving or not, an it allows enough extra air flow to cool it down a bit. It's not a pretty solution, but easy and quick when needed:
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11 hours ago, Bozman said:
Thanks Ron,
there’s lots of commercial places that will do the printing at a reasonable price, I don’t think I want to go into the printing business.😊
Bill
I understand. I'm a Luddite that didn't know there were [laces that could print stuff for you.
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Much as I disdain the cupholder as a measure of quality, tell me more about yours! The rest of teh interior is fantastic as well!
21 hours ago, plwindish said:Your seats look nice! I had the carpet and entire interior along with seatbelts redone in my '76 over last Fall and Winter in a vinyl very similar to what was in the car but was getting very tired.
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That's really nice! Many of us don't have the need for a 3D printer, so you might be able to help offset your expenses with selling repros. ( and no, mine are OK right now)
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19 hours ago, AD said:
Ron,
I believe that this wire runs all the way to the front of the car and might ground somewhere behind the dashboard. On the wiring print it looks like it ties in with the ground for the fuel gauge. Have you tried running a jumper wire from the lamp socket to ground and seeing what happens? If you do this and things act normally perhaps consider just running a new ground wire from the lamp socket and attach it at one of the body mount bolts in the trunk.
I have tried grounding it to the other tail light, which works normally, but no change. Bez also indicates that the grounds end up in that general location. I don't think I had this problem before I had some front paint work done, but will check my grounds there. The odd thing is that If I move the rear socket around, all is OK.. for a little while. And it only happens with teh headlights on.
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My Champ and Larks have those, but they are too big to fit well in the Avanti
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Thanks. The fact that the left one lit up may have something to do with the bad ground on my right tail light too.
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Where is it? My right tail light acts up whenever the headlights are on. My first step is ground checks, but where does the white ground lead? It goes up into the body, but I have no idea where it exits and grounds.
Thanks!
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I know I asked about the light between the tach and speedometer, and have forgotten already. On top of that, I noticed two that I had missed before, because one lit up. These are on the console,over the heat and vent controls. What are they?
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I'm going to cross post this between the '63-'64 and the '65-83 groups because it should be the same. I'm not sure about Blake Avantis...
I'd like to have visors that will swing to cover the door glass when the sun is low and to the side. I started by removing the inner visor mount, but in swinging it from front to side, the outer screw loosens. On top of that, the visor is not wide enough to provide that much shading. Then I tried to fit some from a Jetta, but they require a deep hole in the header to fit, and I don't think I have enough depth for that.
Has anyone figured out another visor that fits?
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I'm going to cross post this between the '63-'64 and the '65-83 groups because it should be the same. I'm not sure about Blake Avantis...
I'd like to have visors that will swing to cover the door glass when the sun is low and to the side. I started by removing the inner visor mount, but in swinging it from front to side, the outer screw loosens. On top of that, the visor is not wide enough to provide that much shading. Then I tried to fit some from a Jetta, but they require a deep hole in the header to fit, and I don't think I have enough depth for that.
Has anyone figured out another visor that fits?
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That's a nice looking car. I'm sorry you have to let it go.
Consider selling on BringATrailer.com. I've done well there, and the costs are reasonable.
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Yeah, OK, I thought I was smart enough to figure it out with the above diagrams and a VOM, but I'm not.
can anyone take a picture please or maybe make a crayon drawing?
Thanks
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That second diagram is what I needed. I had the first. I'll still need to use a VOM to figure out which tab is which, but with that, I can do it.
Thank you!
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I have the wiring diagrams (such as they are) for my 1980 and want to reinstall my antenna switch after finding a functional mismatch between the antenna wire on my new headset and the antenna.
The problem is that the pin-out on the switch is 3 x 3, and the diagram makes no distinction to how the wires are oriented, so there are four possible combinations. I'ce already blown two fuses trying to figure it out and am down to my last one.
Pin numbers on the switch are faint, but legible. Can anyone help me figure out which wore fits where?
Thanks!
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Not so much an issue on my '80, but on my '63 R2, if it would start getting warm, I'd pop the hood latch, even at speed, and it would let more air move and cool it right off.
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Thea, my 1980, has air conditioning again, after repairing leaks and a bad TXV, with a conversion to R134a. I'm still running the A6 compressor and original condenser, pressures look normal for any given temp and at 90F ambient ( probably higher in the garage and under the hood) the vent temp is mid to upper 40's, though my thermometer isn't that easy to read.
Now it spits water, only from the side/ ankle vents. The console vents are dry. I thought it was the drain hose, but it, and the nipple are clear, and oddly dry, though admittedly only in the garage after servicing and not driving. A puff of compressed air didn't seem to move any trash away, as the problem still exists.
Ideas?
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That's a good idea!
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I like the crows foot idea. My dizzy wrench is a box end, so I don't think it would work. But I have a new sender and gauge ans still observe this.
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When I bought my Avanti last year, at 64,000 miles it had about 50 PSI on the road, hot, and about 30 at idle. Earlier this year, I noticed that the top pressure was about 40. I changed the oil and filter, and there was no change. Though I used to have a mechanical gauge for testing, I had installed it in another car and no longer have it. The cost of a new one was about the same as a new pressure sender, so I did the obvious and replaced the sender with a new Stewart Warner unit, but there was no significant change. One thing I did notice ( I think that maybe it did it before, maybe not) was that the needle ticked up several PSI at a time instead of moving smoothly. Still I had adequate pressure, so I put it on the back burner.
I recently got a good buy on an NOS S/W gauge, thinking that maybe the needle was sticking. But there was only a modest change in pressure readings and no change in the needle action. As it is now, when I start, it takes a moment for the gauge to jump to 20, then in 5 lb increments to 35 cold idle.Then just starting to drive, it will jump to 42 PSI cold. Then I have the exact same pressures fully warmed up and the needle acts the same. As the pressure sender is such a pain to remove and replace, I'm hesitant to buy another mechanical gauge and see what it reads and how it acts.
Is this normal activity for a Stewart Warner gauge? Or is there something odd in the engine?
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Oh wow. I finally found one on fleaBay and itll be here tomoorw. thanks anyway!
Frustrating wiring issue, turn signals brakes, and tail lights, 1980
in 1965-83 Avanti
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HI Skip, that makes sense. If it only happens with teh headlights on, it makes sense that's where the bad ground is. It does seem odd that impacts only the right rear brake light though.