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Ron Dame

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Everything posted by Ron Dame

  1. My 1980 has a flare fitting. And I agree, you have to pull the carpet back to find the screws.
  2. No, it was just so foamy that the drains couldn't work. The water flowed out, the foam expanded and went everywhere!
  3. Which Allen heads? the ones at the wind deflector are on the piece of stainless trim just at the front of the glass. They are easy to see and access. The other ones, on the hinge-like linkages at the rear would require me to plug the motor back in, nurse the glass back, try and get a nearly impossible angle photograph, and then nurse the glass back into place.Given the whole fiasco of my car's mechanism, I'm not willing to do that. Also know that this applies only to the Skytop moon roof, not the earlier ASC sunroofs. The name for the Skytop is on the handle for the sun screen. But best of luck to you!
  4. Ron Dame

    Bath time!

    In a prior post I noted that I replaced the broken moon roof glass and weatherstripping. A garden hose test indicated all is well. Well today the local drive through car wash was having a special, and since the paint is far from pristine, (and the water at the house is so hard it's like washing with gravel), I took Thea the Avanti for a true test. And the roof does not leak. Success! However, I got a fine shower from both windows and better yet, the carpets got shampooed from the foam flowing in from both cowl vents! Foam everywhere! 2 inches deep! so I drove home at 70 MPH with the windows and back glass open, letting all the fun blow out everywhere. It must have been a sight. Parking in the sun to dry out, I noticed there was foam even coming out of the hog trough drains! Thank goodness the hot wax at the car wash isn't the same as the ladies use, or I'd be bald everywhere!
  5. I'd check on some boat forums since they often deal with fiberglass. But I'd think resin or penetrating epoxy sounds good from an amatuer's standpoint.
  6. Well, it's done. Sort of. It does not leak, but it was quite a chore given other problems with the sunroof, primarily a motor that chooses to quit mid way, and the inability to push the rear of the roof up completely, despite cleaning and lubing the hinges at the rear. In the end, I decided I didn't like using the sunroof anyway, so got the glass situated and unplugged the motor. This is the end of my write-up of how to replace the weather seal!
  7. Today's progress: #*&(@!$##!! &^*()%)$#! &&*(@#!!! Grrrrr... MF%$&*$&&*! I hope tomorrow is better!
  8. Thanks ronmanfredi. There is an access panel for the motor, I'll take mine out and see what is going on. I did get the rear headliner out with the glass in, but my rubber seal is still quite pliable. Silverstude, thanks for finding those pages. I looked and looked, but often got distracted by another article here and there, so missed what I wanted!
  9. As there are no instructions out there on the Sky Top moon roofs (starting in 1980) I'm documenting what I am going through just to replace the glass. Here is what I need help on: Dan Booth says to just spray some lube on the worm gear as best as you can, and you are done. I still have to pulse the motor just to move the mechanism forward or backwards without the glass. Does anyone have any hints on how to get everything clean, lubed and moving? Or is the motor simply undersized? (PS, if someone has any idea how to remove the roll bar cover and headliner, I'll add it. Dan says EVERYTHING with the later moon roofs are done from above without removing those, but I still have this issue of cleaning and lubing it all.)
  10. I was able to remove the glass without the headliner and roll bar cover being removed. It is rather simple. There are four Allen screws where the wind deflector attached to the glass. These come out. After cutting all of the silicone and butyl crap someone before me used, and with coaxing of the motor and some additional hand pressure, the glass slides up and forward. Then you have access behind the glass to two hinges, partly obscured by rubber. There are two more Allen head screws on each hinge that come out, and you lift it out, easy peasy! I just spoke with Dan at Nostalgic, and the original weather seals are NLA. He sells a different one that requires some modifications to both the car and seals, but it doesn't sound bad. This addresses my main problem, but doesn't answer have the headliner and roll bar covers come off. It seems to be totally installation different than the earlier Avantis, and I forgot to ask Dan.
  11. It's time to address the moon roof issue in my 1980. The glass is cracked and it has also been sealed closed, but of course it still leaks. (I do have a replacement glass if I do repair rather than remove the moon roof) The glass has NOT dropped down, so I'm hopeful that everything is still bonded in place and that rust isn't beyond repair. The sunshield is firmly stuck half open/closed, further hampering access. Though I thought I saw directions for removing the roll bar cover, headliner, and moon roof glass at one time, a search on this site, Nostalgic Motors site and Bob Johnstone's site has not turned up the now elusive instructions for removing these items. help please!
  12. Thanks my friend. I may head over next week or so, and will stop by to see you too!
  13. That kind of sums it up. I know the '87's have a different chassis, and *largely*/ the same body, but are the seat mounts the same? Are any mods needed to use them?
  14. I'm going to cross this over to the trivia forum, since you've been the only answer so far.
  15. That kind of sums it up. I know the '87's have a different frame, and *largely*/ the same body, but are the seat mounts the same?
  16. I've got a similar issue to deal with this Spring: Mine has already been sealed shut, but the glass is cracked. I have the new glass and depending on condition of the mechanism, may resurrect the functionality of the sunroof... or not. I'm not sure if the mechanism works anymore. If it doesn't, that complicates removing the old glass. So I, too, am interested in how to proceed.
  17. I like your fog lights. What are they?
  18. Well, I found the offending ground, and it was the right front turn signal. I had only looked inside the housing and at the pigtail, ASSuming that the ground wire was directly at the socket, not on the outside of the casting. I had a minor fender=bender last year, and it appears the body shop lost the correct screw for the ground and used a long sheet metal screw instead... so long, that the wire was loose. Worse, it was a much larger diameter that needed and split the lug on the housing. For the short term, I found a shorter, similar thread screw and have things operational until I figure out a way to properly repair the lug or create a different ground. I'm thinking of trying a dab of Frost King defroster repair epoxy which is conductive, to repair the lug.
  19. HI Skip, that makes sense. If it only happens with teh headlights on, it makes sense that's where the bad ground is. It does seem odd that impacts only the right rear brake light though.
  20. Thats right Ronmafredi. All is normal until I turn on teh headlights
  21. With the headlights off, all lights work normally. With them on, there is current back feeding to the right signal indicator on the dash, and sometimes the right brake light works, sometimes it does not, but only when the headlights are on. I cleaned both front and rear light sockets on the right and used dielectric grease. The ground on the front was confirmed with almost no voltage drop. The back socket where it connects to the light body is clean and greased, though I don't think this is the primary ground, if any ground at all. I ran a temporary ground from the right light socket to the left (which acts normally) but this did not solve the issue. I've attempted to find the proper ground for the RR lamps, with no avail. What am I missing?
  22. Upholstery condition is not important, unless it's burgundy. Matching burgundy rear seat with good upholstery would be a plus. Ron rdame58@gmail.com
  23. LeoB and Silverstude, all I can say is that it works. and it's not much different than Dan Booth's solution, though I had not considered the bouncing and potential to break the hood, hence his use of the TP and shop rag. As far as safety, as stated, there is a positive pressure above the hood that keeps it from rising more than a couple of inches, yet it apparently offers enough air to flow out of the engine compartment that it works. For me anyway. I accidentally discovered this when I for got to latch the hood and saw the hood raise a bit on teh highway, but not much. And the engine never got overly warm that hot day.
  24. When my A II starts getting warm, I pop the hood, driving or not, an it allows enough extra air flow to cool it down a bit. It's not a pretty solution, but easy and quick when needed:
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