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Ron Dame

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Posts posted by Ron Dame

  1. Thanks everyone.  Is there a reason  the entire roof panel is replaced, rather that fitting in a section to replace the glass area? That seems like overkill, but what do I know?

    I do have a glass on my way, my intent is to have a fixed glass moonroof, likely using windshield urethane adhesive as opposed to silicone which is known to fail. I'll remove much of the old assembly and make supports as needed before sealing the glass in place.  Is this an idea doomed for failure?

  2. On 3/29/2023 at 11:06 AM, wildfelr said:

    RQB3263/81/305  ..... YES ..... I DID MINE LAST YEAR during the  stainless steel exhaust installation...with the old original exhaust out of the way it was easy...and had never been off since 1981 .... ....it was unbelievably clean ...but still very worth doing ....30 minute job.... have fun ....bill in florida

    Thanks! My to-do list keeps growing,  but I'm glad this won't be a terrible job.

  3. I'm reviving an old topic.

    My 1980's moon roof glass is broken.. not just cracked.. and leaking ,despite flex seal and duct tape. It had already been glued shut with silicone, so I don't even know if the motor works, or what shape the rails, drain tubes, and the bonding to the body are. The replacement glasses I have found are all different sizes than mine, so I'm considering deleting it all together.

    Nostalgic will sell and entire roof panel, but it's a massive job. I am considering removing the entire moon roof assembly and just closing the opening with fiberglass. Has anyone done this, and can you give advice?


  4. I thought I'd start pulling the trim panel to get to the expansion valve better while waiting to get the R12 evacuated. ... Now I have a new snag. Where I suspected I had screws holding the panel in, it seems more like a glob of metal, almost like it is soldered in place, which is justn plain silly.  Nonetheless, What kind of fasteners hold the panels in, and how do I remove them ( 1980)?

  5. 15 hours ago, pantera928 said:

    You may have an expansion valve stuck closed. I try to achieve around 30 PSIG on the low side and 2.5 times the ambient temperature in degrees F on the high side so if it was was 70 degrees F, then 2.5 times 70 would be 175 PSIG. You are obviously a little low but even with those pressures, you should see some cooling.

    It  must be stuck then, as it has no cooling at all. Guess it's time for a 134A changeover.

  6. I'm still in need of the sunroof glass, some parts have broken out and now I have glass, duct tape and flex seal, but still have leaks. The glass only is 17" x 35.5". If I get the rest of the assembly too, that's OK, but prefer the glass only. Thanks!

  7. I fixed the fan switch and now the compressor runs as intended. Today we got to the low 70's so it was time to check pressures. Please note, I don't know much from a practical aspect of A/C systems.

    The system is still R12 and at 1500 RPM showed about 4 on the low side and 145 on the high, so it's clear I am undercharged. Outlet temp was actually higher that ambient temp, maybe 80F or so. I've got dye in the system, and so far find no leaks. I don't know when it was last serviced. I'll look again tomorrow. ASSuming I find no leaks tomorrow, is the leak so small as to be negligable, and so what do I do? The professional/legal reason is to change compressor oil and recharge with 134A, or change the compressor (A6) and recharge, replacing the drier/accumulator of course.  Maybe hoses too. Or in a less legal/professional manner, can I top it off, and with what?

    PS, I will crosspost this on other sites so I get as many good and bad suggestions as possible!



  8. I've just started working on my sometimes operating A/C, but am a bit befuddled by what should be a simple wiring system on my 1980 with the GM A6 compressor.. Like no High or Low cut out switches, and sometimes power to the compressor, other times, none.

    So where are the cut out switches, relays, and assorted components so that I can isolate my problem?

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