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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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I suppose one of the owners upgraded it with a later steering wheel, and maybe parted out a later car, as one door handle is later, one is earlier, the driver's door had been turquoise, The rear view mirror is definately not Studebaker, nor are the door mirrors, and a couple other oddities.
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Thanks for that info, maybe I can fab up something similar
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Mine (R1092, (and I think RS 1032? Something 1092) has a chromed valley cover. But there are a lot of mismatched parts on this car, like a faux wood steering wheel, later interior door handles, etc.
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If an R2 had a chromed valley cover, why wouldn't an R4?
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The fatmat and mega mat are advertised as sound insulation, not heat, thought it might be fine for that too. Being an R2, I'm pretty happy with the sound, but this is almost as bad as being the the cab of a steam loco.
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Gary, where can I find the service letter? Or the kit? Or see enough to make my own?
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I'm mostly wondering what will be both efficient and have a bot of wearability.. . maybe just for the summer, that shouldn't be that big a deal.
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Along with cleaning out the hog troughs last week, I also received by White Post restored wheel cylinders, fixed a fuel leak, and finally, after 8 weeks of being pissed at the car, went for a drive! It was 85 outside, but the engine stayed just a fuzz over 180. I think the cabin was also running about 180 too! I have stripped out all of the old, moldy, rotten carpet, so there is nothing but fiberglass. Until this Fall when I start the cosmetics, I wasn't planning on having anything more than generic rubber mats, but that hot, hot drive is making me rethink this.
I know that these cars are pretty hot anyway, but what is the best way to reduce the cabin heat from the cowel and floor that might have some durability while uncovered?
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I've been putting this off, removing the last of the rotted carpet and moldy interior on R1092. Yuk, I used a mask, but still ended up with a much of nasty in my nose. From there, I cut holes in the floor to access the hog troughs, cleaned out a mouse nest ( yeah, mask again!) and a bunch of acorns, then sprayed the inside of the troughs and frame rails with Eastwood internal frame coating.
I hadn't touched the car in weeks, I was pissed at it (brakes again) but am back in the saddle again. Whooppy tye yi yay!
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FYI, I needed to replace my rear cylinders, they are about $90 each. White Post is going to sleeve them for $85 each, and they will never pit again.
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Propane is an excellent refrigerant, we used lots of it in ultra-low temp freezers. Yeah, there's the flamability issue, but if you still have some R12, it's not an issue anymore, as that is a decent (though toxic) extinguisher.
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So The king of bluegrass's car is back on eBay. It looks like a viable car from a really quick look, but then there are the A pillars. I'm not in the market, but love the history... how awful is the pillar/cowl repair job?
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The one(s) the back tires leave?.
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Once you blasted out the fiberglass, I think so!.
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And here I was thinking it was downhill with the engine off and on a roll-back.
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I've found Seafoam to be one of the few that work as advertised. I wish it fixed oil pressure though... those snake oils that increase it, don't fix it though.
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Is that Steve Dorschlag's (sp) Coupe Express?
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I am having a wiring issue on R1092 around the voltage regulator: After some work all around the engine bay, I had a no-start condition: the ammeter pegged negative and the starter did nothing. I checked around, and long story short, I removed the yellow with black tracer (22E on the diagram) , ignition switch to regulator from the regulator and it's all solved except the car does not charge. I find no shorts in the wiring (yet) so is it regulator or alternator? Second, there is another wire to the same terminal on the regulator that does not show on the wiring diagram. It is heavier gauge, either a yellowed white or a pale yellow and looks original. What is it? I left it connected and had no issues.
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I've rodded out the block on a Lark and a Hawk. Sucks. I can see how an Avanti is worse. I hope mine are fine, there is evidence that the plugs have been changed at least. I hope PS hoses hold (what makes it worse than any other Studie?)
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As I keep plugging away at getting the R2 roadworthy, I found my newest most hated job: Lower radiator hose. Between the trans cooler lines at the lower end and the lack of access from the supercharger and brackets, plus idiotically located hose clamp screws (thanks PO) and sticking old hose, it was a 1 1/2 hour job, and my arms are bruised to hell. I'm tired as hell
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8 hours ago, Paul K. said:
Black is nice with the orange interior if you keep the original Fawn upper trim. Its not too much orange then.
I wouldn't paint a Studebaker Avanti a non-original color. Every time I see one it just looks wrong, but just my opinion.
I have a half quart of Studebaker factory pack paint in Avanti Gray. It was in the trunk of my car when I bought it in 2007. Its not dried up and I've been wanting to do a spray out to see for myself cause I have seen many versions that were not right.
If you do, would you send me a sample card please?
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Did Studebaker paint the blocks and heads separately on Avantis? Seems odd, or maybe early on some were assembled as R3's but then production said, no, make it an R2?
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Thanks. This is not Glyptol, it is red paint. Lark55, what color are the heads and intake on yours? MFG, mine is a PowerShift. It was a nice car when the son inherited it, but then it sat outside for 15 years and is pretty rough. It should be ready to tag and drive by tomorrow, but is still awfully ugly. Thankfully, the frame and hog troughs survived it's terrible storage.
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I think I brought this up before, but RS 1092 is an R2 in R1092.
The heads and intake are black, but the block is defintitely red. I thought that was for R3s, not R2s. Though I don't have full service records, I see nothing to suggest a rebuild, and the car only has 62,000 original miles. Under the red, I see no black, and given the dirt, I again don't think this engine has been out, much less rebuilt
Could early R2's have red blocks? Or did Studebaker paint the engine after heads were installed?
Engine stops running
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by Ron Dame
It seems you may have answered your own question by leaving the gas cap loose. Keep doing this and see if it stays gone, then address your vent system if it does.
Did you loosen the cap last time it died and hear a whoosh? If so, that is certainly your problem