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Ron Dame

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  1. Albert Ross, a/k/a my 1963 ,R1092 R2/Powershift car has been a challenge, but I've won. But I am tired. Is Hagerty's value of $16,000 realistic for a #4 car? That's a bit less than I have in it, but that's the way things go.

    Here is a quick synopsis of Albert: Original RS 1038 R2, which was just rebuilt completely. Supercharger works fine. Hog troughs  and frame are solid. Completely new/remanufactured brakes, from the pedal to the disc/drums, with a Turner conversion on the front. Steering is good, exhaust is old but solid, glass is good. I finally overcame all the crap that comes with a car that was poorly stored for 20+ years. Finally, everything works as it should, and it drives well. Well, there is no antenna, so the radio is unknown and the clock...it of course does not work. Glass is all good, and very little fiberglass work to be done.

    Here is where it gets ugly like a moldy original Shakespeare manuscript: The paint SUCKS! But really awful paint isn't any more expensive to repair than tired paint. Chrome is straight, but worn and pitted. Maybe OK for a driver if you aren't very picky. The car sat for years outside, filled with water, and got really moldy inside. I stripped most of it, scrubbed the heck out of it, but everything needs re-doing. Dash pad is passable, but not perfect.

    Here is my conundrum: It's a great driver, ready to go if you are blind, but as butt-ugly as it can be. It does not present well, yet everything it needs probably costs no more than if it just looked tired.

    Is the Hagerty's value reasonable? How can I present this car for sale  better than any photos would suggest? What venue might be best to present it?

  2. That is not my car, and that is Fatman insulation. The carbon fiber is black and like a blanket. But I installed it just like this. Putting it over the tunnel means you dont need to put any behind the gauge panel

  3. Everything is possible with money! I've seen batteries in the trunk, so it should be straight forward, and with the Sanden compressors, it should be possible to add AC, though you may need to fabricate your own brackets. I'd suspect you'd want to remove the surge tank and place the compressor there, but of course you would need to ad an overflow bottle.

  4. I ended up using a carbon fiber mat called Heat Blok under the carpets and all over the trans tunnel, even some into the shifter boot. That made a HUGE diffrence, this stuff is really good. From there, I noticed how much hot air was coming from under the dash, and took some foam bard and more Heat Blok and fabbed some under dash panels like modern cars. That really cooled it off, plus it tidies up the look

  5. 3 hours ago, Av4nti said:

    were you able to fix the brakes?

    The brakes are fine, I had White Post sleeve the rear cylinders, and all is well $85 each seems steep, but proper new cylinders are a bit more, and these won't pit again. The only other thing is that one dust sheild needs a bit more work to not scrape on teh Turner rotors.

  6. It seems you may have answered your own question by leaving the gas cap loose. Keep doing this and see if it stays gone, then address your vent system if it does.

    Did you loosen the cap last time it died and hear a whoosh? If so, that is certainly your problem

  7. I suppose one of the owners upgraded it with a later steering wheel, and maybe parted out a later car, as one door handle is later, one is earlier, the driver's door had been turquoise, The rear view mirror is definately not Studebaker, nor are the door mirrors, and a couple other oddities.

  8. Mine (R1092, (and I think RS 1032? Something 1092) has a chromed valley cover. But there are a lot of mismatched parts on this car, like a faux wood steering wheel, later interior door handles, etc.

  9. The fatmat  and mega mat are advertised as sound insulation, not heat, thought it might be fine for that too. Being an R2, I'm pretty happy with the sound, but this is almost as bad as being the the cab of a steam loco.

  10. Along with cleaning out the hog troughs last week, I also received by White Post restored wheel cylinders, fixed a fuel leak, and finally, after 8 weeks of being pissed at the car, went for a drive! It was 85 outside, but the engine stayed just a fuzz over 180. I think the cabin was also running about 180 too! I have stripped out all of the old, moldy, rotten carpet, so there is nothing but fiberglass. Until this Fall when I start the cosmetics, I wasn't planning on having anything more than generic rubber mats, but that hot, hot drive is making me rethink this.

    I know that these cars are pretty hot anyway, but what is the best way to reduce the cabin heat from the cowel and floor that might have some durability while uncovered?

  11. I've been putting this off, removing the last of the rotted carpet and moldy interior on R1092. Yuk, I used a mask, but still ended up with a much of nasty in my nose. From there, I cut holes in the floor to access the hog troughs, cleaned out a mouse nest ( yeah, mask again!)  and a bunch of acorns, then sprayed the inside of the troughs and frame rails with Eastwood internal frame coating.


    I hadn't touched the car in weeks, I was pissed at it (brakes again) but am back in the saddle again. Whooppy tye yi yay!

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