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Ron Dame

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Posts posted by Ron Dame

  1. 10 hours ago, pantera928 said:

    I have been following this car on Ebay and wondering about the rear windshield. I get up there with my work but do not have any trips planned right now. That could change any time though

    me too. Apparently his health is not good so he has been slow with responses and photos. I'm not so worried about the rear glass as long as it is not cracked.

  2. I've got the itch again, this one is a 70's Avanti II. Frame and HTs are supposed to be "solid". It has cracks in both upper corners of the windshield.

    I've not seen the car in person yet, but could this be an indication of a rusted windshield frame? No cracks or  swelling in the fiberglass, per the seller, but again I've not seen it myself.

    Opinions?

  3. Hi DAPY, thanks! BaT and other non auto auctions prefer no reserve for obvious reasons, but there does seem to be a flurry of action when there is no reserve, or it is dropped. I was feeling good about the action so decided to kick it up. It was close enough to me reserve for me to risk. I'm getting close to break even, which is all I need!

  4. Was there a running change in the location of the vent /overflow lines? The connections on my tank are not in the same place as shown in the Bob Johnstone's web page, especially the vent connection which is dead center on my tank, instead of to the side on his photo.

    Further, the  vent line runs up into the left pillar, then back down and through a hole in the tank floor, instead of the right wheel well as described on that page. My issue is gas fumes in the cabin that I cannot locate. Should I re-route this line?

  5. The car does have promise. Using my labor, including painting, I estimate $10K will have it looking very good, but I don't have $10K or the desire to put more time into it.

    I will probably put a flyer ad in Hemmings and see what happens before I go to auction. I'm not sure Bring a Trailer would list it either.

  6. Albert Ross, a/k/a my 1963 ,R1092 R2/Powershift car has been a challenge, but I've won. But I am tired. Is Hagerty's value of $16,000 realistic for a #4 car? That's a bit less than I have in it, but that's the way things go.

    Here is a quick synopsis of Albert: Original RS 1038 R2, which was just rebuilt completely. Supercharger works fine. Hog troughs  and frame are solid. Completely new/remanufactured brakes, from the pedal to the disc/drums, with a Turner conversion on the front. Steering is good, exhaust is old but solid, glass is good. I finally overcame all the crap that comes with a car that was poorly stored for 20+ years. Finally, everything works as it should, and it drives well. Well, there is no antenna, so the radio is unknown and the clock...it of course does not work. Glass is all good, and very little fiberglass work to be done.

    Here is where it gets ugly like a moldy original Shakespeare manuscript: The paint SUCKS! But really awful paint isn't any more expensive to repair than tired paint. Chrome is straight, but worn and pitted. Maybe OK for a driver if you aren't very picky. The car sat for years outside, filled with water, and got really moldy inside. I stripped most of it, scrubbed the heck out of it, but everything needs re-doing. Dash pad is passable, but not perfect.

    Here is my conundrum: It's a great driver, ready to go if you are blind, but as butt-ugly as it can be. It does not present well, yet everything it needs probably costs no more than if it just looked tired.

    Is the Hagerty's value reasonable? How can I present this car for sale  better than any photos would suggest? What venue might be best to present it?

  7. That is not my car, and that is Fatman insulation. The carbon fiber is black and like a blanket. But I installed it just like this. Putting it over the tunnel means you dont need to put any behind the gauge panel

  8. Everything is possible with money! I've seen batteries in the trunk, so it should be straight forward, and with the Sanden compressors, it should be possible to add AC, though you may need to fabricate your own brackets. I'd suspect you'd want to remove the surge tank and place the compressor there, but of course you would need to ad an overflow bottle.

  9. I ended up using a carbon fiber mat called Heat Blok under the carpets and all over the trans tunnel, even some into the shifter boot. That made a HUGE diffrence, this stuff is really good. From there, I noticed how much hot air was coming from under the dash, and took some foam bard and more Heat Blok and fabbed some under dash panels like modern cars. That really cooled it off, plus it tidies up the look

  10. 3 hours ago, Av4nti said:

    were you able to fix the brakes?

    The brakes are fine, I had White Post sleeve the rear cylinders, and all is well $85 each seems steep, but proper new cylinders are a bit more, and these won't pit again. The only other thing is that one dust sheild needs a bit more work to not scrape on teh Turner rotors.

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