Ron Dame
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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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Fonts, schmonts... why they hell do they have to advertise that it's a clock, Pantera? That's enough to make me not want that, though maybe I could use my existing face on it.
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Great! what about the condensor? Did it need to be changed?
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And an aluminum A6 is 134A compatible I assume?
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I'm glad it is a simple as it looks, and no relay! Maybe today I can get it running enough to put the gauges on and see how much charge there is. There's something in the sight glass anyway.
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I've just started working on my sometimes operating A/C, but am a bit befuddled by what should be a simple wiring system on my 1980 with the GM A6 compressor.. Like no High or Low cut out switches, and sometimes power to the compressor, other times, none.
So where are the cut out switches, relays, and assorted components so that I can isolate my problem?
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Mine is OK, but not this nice. Have you priced it yet?
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Not yet. I had a boo boo with her and she's getting her right fender repaired at a local shop. I hope I can have her back soon!
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Trying to save frustration at the FLAPS. Which Chevy should I name to get the correct alternator, or did all 1980 350's using the same one?
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8 hours ago, Wasjunk said:
That is the orig. Nardi wheel that was in the car. I have modified it to resemble an original Avanti wheel.
What was involved? It's a mod I'd like to make
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How did you modify the steering wheel to fit? Or did you modify the existing one? It looks great!
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Thanks!
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I'm getting exhaust in the cabin, so lets start with the basics. This is Thea, a 1980 Avanti II. It has a nearly new stainless steel exhaust installed by Jon Myer before I bought the car from him. I can't hear any leaks, but my ears suck. The trunk seal looks OK, not pristine, but not badly cracked and no serious cracks or lost chunks. It seems to close correctly and fully. The exhaust tips extend past the lower valence as they should. If the windows are all closed and the vents open, no problem. I'm not sure about if the vents are closed. Windows down, all is OK, but some smell enters the cabin with either with any of the other glasses open or shut. If the windows are up and either the vent wings or rear vents glasses are open, I get exhaust inside.
Where do I start looking for this?
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18 hours ago, pantera928 said:
Your high beam indicator should be on your speedometer. It is blue on mine
OK, thanks, I'll need to change the bulb then
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I thought that was the high beam indicator. I don't have a working one, and assumed I need to get in there and change the bulb, so I will be interested in finding out what it really is.
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The Blaupunkt that is in there has noisy volume and balance controls and I wanted bluetooth, so like Pantera, I bought a Retrosound unit. In the middle of the night, it occurred to me that removing the top speaker grille might work. I don't think there is actually a speaker there since I have 2 in the kick panels and 2 on the rear shelf. Thanks for the confirmation Bez!
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My first Studebaker was a '62 GT Hawk. I stopped for gas and the old greasy guy came out of the garage bay and asked " Iz that one of them Valvos?" Oh lort.....
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What I thought would be a simple radio change tossed me a curve. The panel below the radio that extends from the steering column to the right door panel is riveted in. Before I drill out a bunch of rivets, is there an easier way to gain access for the swap?
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Thanks everyone. I'm used to Studebaker engines, but in close to 50 years of cars, this is honestly the first Chevy engine I've every had, except for a Stovebolt 6 in a truck. I know lots love the SBC, but it doesn't seem to be the best designed engine as far as maintenance goes. At least not in an Avanti II.
I just re-read this... 50 years of cars. Damn I feel old.
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How the heck do you change spark plugs on a 350? From underneath? And how do you find which spark lead is #1 for timing?
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These ujoint, while they don't feel sloppy, don't have a grease fitting and look dry and crusty. I have a pair coming my way, and we'll see if that fixes it. Thanks!
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On my '80, I found one hose of a molded two-hose connector to the purge valve rotted. I cut the rotted hose off, took a 3/4" long section of brake line, pushed into the connector fitting, and re[placed the line. A dad of liquid tape to assure a seal, and it's invisible unless you look close.
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OK, so as far as tune, I apparently am OK, so I won't look for problems. As I'd like an LSD, I might swap to a lower numerical ratio at the same time as I'm not a speed freak, but I'm not a granny either.
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Thanks, but that only works for each email. It doesn't prevent it from happening on the next notification.
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I'm using gmail, and all replies to my AOAI posts go straight to spam. I can't find a way on gmail to not filter these, so I am wondering if others have this issue and can help me? Thanks!
air conditioning wiring
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
I fixed the fan switch and now the compressor runs as intended. Today we got to the low 70's so it was time to check pressures. Please note, I don't know much from a practical aspect of A/C systems.
The system is still R12 and at 1500 RPM showed about 4 on the low side and 145 on the high, so it's clear I am undercharged. Outlet temp was actually higher that ambient temp, maybe 80F or so. I've got dye in the system, and so far find no leaks. I don't know when it was last serviced. I'll look again tomorrow. ASSuming I find no leaks tomorrow, is the leak so small as to be negligable, and so what do I do? The professional/legal reason is to change compressor oil and recharge with 134A, or change the compressor (A6) and recharge, replacing the drier/accumulator of course. Maybe hoses too. Or in a less legal/professional manner, can I top it off, and with what?
PS, I will crosspost this on other sites so I get as many good and bad suggestions as possible!