Ron Dame
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Posts posted by Ron Dame
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FYI, I needed to replace my rear cylinders, they are about $90 each. White Post is going to sleeve them for $85 each, and they will never pit again.
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Propane is an excellent refrigerant, we used lots of it in ultra-low temp freezers. Yeah, there's the flamability issue, but if you still have some R12, it's not an issue anymore, as that is a decent (though toxic) extinguisher.
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So The king of bluegrass's car is back on eBay. It looks like a viable car from a really quick look, but then there are the A pillars. I'm not in the market, but love the history... how awful is the pillar/cowl repair job?
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The one(s) the back tires leave?.
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Once you blasted out the fiberglass, I think so!.
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And here I was thinking it was downhill with the engine off and on a roll-back.
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I've found Seafoam to be one of the few that work as advertised. I wish it fixed oil pressure though... those snake oils that increase it, don't fix it though.
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Is that Steve Dorschlag's (sp) Coupe Express?
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I am having a wiring issue on R1092 around the voltage regulator: After some work all around the engine bay, I had a no-start condition: the ammeter pegged negative and the starter did nothing. I checked around, and long story short, I removed the yellow with black tracer (22E on the diagram) , ignition switch to regulator from the regulator and it's all solved except the car does not charge. I find no shorts in the wiring (yet) so is it regulator or alternator? Second, there is another wire to the same terminal on the regulator that does not show on the wiring diagram. It is heavier gauge, either a yellowed white or a pale yellow and looks original. What is it? I left it connected and had no issues.
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I've rodded out the block on a Lark and a Hawk. Sucks. I can see how an Avanti is worse. I hope mine are fine, there is evidence that the plugs have been changed at least. I hope PS hoses hold (what makes it worse than any other Studie?)
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As I keep plugging away at getting the R2 roadworthy, I found my newest most hated job: Lower radiator hose. Between the trans cooler lines at the lower end and the lack of access from the supercharger and brackets, plus idiotically located hose clamp screws (thanks PO) and sticking old hose, it was a 1 1/2 hour job, and my arms are bruised to hell. I'm tired as hell
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8 hours ago, Paul K. said:
Black is nice with the orange interior if you keep the original Fawn upper trim. Its not too much orange then.
I wouldn't paint a Studebaker Avanti a non-original color. Every time I see one it just looks wrong, but just my opinion.
I have a half quart of Studebaker factory pack paint in Avanti Gray. It was in the trunk of my car when I bought it in 2007. Its not dried up and I've been wanting to do a spray out to see for myself cause I have seen many versions that were not right.
If you do, would you send me a sample card please?
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Did Studebaker paint the blocks and heads separately on Avantis? Seems odd, or maybe early on some were assembled as R3's but then production said, no, make it an R2?
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Thanks. This is not Glyptol, it is red paint. Lark55, what color are the heads and intake on yours? MFG, mine is a PowerShift. It was a nice car when the son inherited it, but then it sat outside for 15 years and is pretty rough. It should be ready to tag and drive by tomorrow, but is still awfully ugly. Thankfully, the frame and hog troughs survived it's terrible storage.
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I think I brought this up before, but RS 1092 is an R2 in R1092.
The heads and intake are black, but the block is defintitely red. I thought that was for R3s, not R2s. Though I don't have full service records, I see nothing to suggest a rebuild, and the car only has 62,000 original miles. Under the red, I see no black, and given the dirt, I again don't think this engine has been out, much less rebuilt
Could early R2's have red blocks? Or did Studebaker paint the engine after heads were installed?
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Black is tough to prep for and hard to keep clean, plus it would look like Halloween. White is boring. I'm not a big fan of silver, but think it is my best choice.
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Here is the breakdown on my R2: Booster $190. Master cylinder and Turner Brake kit (Got a deal from someone here on a n installed but not used kit and new master $500; Hoses and lines... maybe $125? Rear cylinders $85 each.. The car had brand new rear shoes and hardware, but sat for years. So for $1000, I have all new brakes.
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Thanks everyone, I'm afraid Avanti Gray will clash with the orange interior, what do you all think? I'm leaning to something close: 2016 Mazda Solar Silver
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Thanks!
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By how much? This is much cheaper than Just Dashes, but if it looks bad, then I don't want it.
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Thanks, I'm buying it only for the vinyl dash pad.
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Before I get too deep into a purchase, other than gauges and color, is there any difference between a 1976 dash and a 1963 dash?
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That's a nice color, how close is it to the original Avanti Gray?
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Does anyone have any images that show the real Avanti Gray on a car? Color chips are too small and googling it shows Avantis in everything from silver to dark gray to a bluish gray (which I understand may be right) None are good enough for me to get a good idea, and as a new AOAI member, the couple of issues I have, may have a photo, but the car is behind others. Thanks!
Cleaned the hog troughs!
in Avanti Pub
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I've been putting this off, removing the last of the rotted carpet and moldy interior on R1092. Yuk, I used a mask, but still ended up with a much of nasty in my nose. From there, I cut holes in the floor to access the hog troughs, cleaned out a mouse nest ( yeah, mask again!) and a bunch of acorns, then sprayed the inside of the troughs and frame rails with Eastwood internal frame coating.
I hadn't touched the car in weeks, I was pissed at it (brakes again) but am back in the saddle again. Whooppy tye yi yay!