studegary
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Posts posted by studegary
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Prior to York is Dunkirk and Reedsville Flea Markets (Studebaker and Avanti) this Fall.
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The link brings me to a 1973 Avanti for sale and your topic is "79 Avanti for sale". Is the '73 the car that you are asking about or is there a '79?
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Answer.....$6,500 (What's it worth today???!!!!!!!!)
I think that would depend on how complete/original it is and what condition it is in. I could see it at $5K, $10K, $15K or possibly even $20K.
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An educated guess - no grille opening and overhead controls.
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Off the top of my head, I can only come up with 17, so I will say 17.
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I believe that window price stickers were a federal requirement for new cars starting with the 1959 model year.
I only bought one Avanti new. It was my 1987 and IIRC, the MSRP was $33K.
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Since you asked for experience with Cooper, I will give mine.
For about nine years (1990s), I worked for a large livery company. The sedans and limousines all received a lot of use, so time was not an issue on the tires. The original equipment tires lasted for a long time, usually a year on the sedans (60-65K miles). When the tires finally wore out, the company bought Coopers because they were the cheapest. The sedans were kept for about 200K miles. I never saw an entire set of Coopers wear out. Within months, at least one per set had a failure, usually tread separation, sometimes blow-out. This lack of reliability, over a large sample size, is what has kept me away from Coopers. I care more about safety than cost. I think that if the livery company took the short life of the Coopers into consideration, they would not be cheap.
I have not heard nor experienced anything bad about Hancooks.
On my own cars, I have GoodYears and I replace them by time due to low usage per year.
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Good point!....but it must have been interesting to watch it happen while the engine was running at a high RPM! (without getting covered in hot oil!!)
I did say "recently running", implying that it was now turned off (not for long), not while it was running.
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Gee - I (and probably you) could have told them that. How many rocker arm covers have we taken off a recently run Studebaker V8 only to have a LOT (like a quart each) of oil pour out? I am sure that I had this happen before the Avanti engines came out.
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Good point on the R3-4's labeled 'racing version'....but that's not what the "R" prefix meant!.....Anyone else?
point on the R3-4's labeled 'racing version'....but that's not what the "R" prefix meant!.....Anyone else?
Ed - Your initial question did not ask what the R stood for. It just asked if it was true that it meant racing.
Paul has given you a good response to this second question.
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Almost as purported, except that it was to beat the Mopar hemis, not the Chevrolet 409s. Heck, my 1964 hipo 383 Fury beat 1964 Chevrolet 409s.
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I am thinking that it was just the larger return passages through the heads and the vents on the rocker arm covers that aided in oil return, not a unique timing issue.
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I am not sure about all R engines, but the R3 was referred to by Studebaker as the "racing version". Sales Letter 103, 9/27/62: "As first announced on April 25, 1962, the racing version of the Avanti engine, designated Model R-3, is available as an extra cost option....This is a modification of the standard supercharged Avanti engine...The engine will be installed ...in South Bend....shipped from South Bend. Performance and design characteristics of this engine are such that it is not recommended for normal city and highway usage."
To me, this boils down to R3 and R4 engines are racing engines and R1 and R2 are street engines, therefore, I do not believe that the R in front of all of these engine types refers to racing.
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This is the Avanti Forum. I do not see how something that only applies to a Lark belongs here. (Yes, I know that there were standard shift Avantis, but that is not what the question was about.)
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And here I thought that you were referring to the NUT behind the wheel (attached to the steering wheel at two points)
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I knew that the replacements were made in Europe. I guess that my paternal heritage from Sweden made the Swedish answer seem correct. As usual, I did not look it up. It has been awhile since I remember reading about this or having any in my hand.
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True
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I question the authenticity of that signature. It may have been made late in Loewy's life, but people usually do not change the way that they form letters in their names. They may get sloppier. People's signatures do not all look exactly the same each time that they write them, but the characteristics of letter formation, etc. tend to stay consistent.
I have things signed by Loewy. I pulled out a letter of Feb. 1965 signed by Loewy and what I see posted above looks like a poor imitation, especially the formation of the "R".
4541 was assmbled in June 1963. Loewy wouldn't have been around Studebaker then. It is possible that someone caught up to Loewy somewhere to get his signature, but that seems highly unlikely to me. A picture of him signing it or an eye witness would convince me that he really changed his signature that much.
I went and spent the time to dig out a couple of other things including an original sketch from the Palm Springs "design house" and a book. They are both consistent with the letter that I first used as a check..
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The paperwork I have says "body numbers discontinued begin RQ-B1516". The way I read it is that 1516 would be the first without the tag and 1515 would be the last with one.
And as you said...it's not important.
I will change my notes to agree with yours (no tag starting with 1516).
Note that 1516 does not have power windows. I think that this is unusual for a 1970.
(I can not imagine pulling that heavy trailer with a Raider.)
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I wonder if RQB 1516 still exists. That would be a good way to verify the cut-off/change.
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In my old hand written notes, I see: "1516 - last w/ body no.".
One of us is off by one body. Not that it is al that important.
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It will be the last three digits of the VIN sequentially up starting with 200. I am doing this from memory as I am at the SDC Convention inRI.
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ISTR using Chrysler compact spares in Avantis. Of course you would need the correct bolt circle and general size.
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Checked the ignition switch today looks to be working right.Anybody have any ideas?
By "working right", do you mean that there is power to the switch and power out when the switch is on? This would be counter to your previous statement of "...no power at the ign sw terminal."
Are you sure that all of your fuses and circuit breakers are okay? At first, I thought that you (your Avanti) simply blew a fuse.
Avanti Gift!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
I was thinking that Andy bought/received Joe's Avanti.