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What I mean is the short channel (or guide) located just ahead of the rear vertical guide channel…. This short channel is retained by two bolts, and if you loosen the forward one you can move that channel up or down to change the position (angle) of the side window in relation to the door itself.

That is a difference, however, we were looking for the BIGGEST difference!

let's not forget the expansion tank.

If it were my car: Step 1, roll the window down and adjust the door where it is level with the body and it closes and latches correctly. Step 2, loosen the vent assembly bolts and adjuster nuts and raise the vent assembly as high as possible, then adjust the top part of it where it is even with the body rubber seal at the roof so that the top of the vent is level with the seal. Step 3, raise the window all the way up and be sure the window height stop is set to where the window stops going up as soon as it touches the top of the vent window frame. You don't want the window pushing the vent assembly upwards. Step 4, with the window all the way up, adjust the vent assembly using the adjuster screws to obtain the right amount of tilt so the vent assembly and window touch the upper seal. You don't want it to put a lot of pressure on the seal, but you don't want an air gap either. You may need to loosen the vent assembly bolts just a little to make the adjuster work easier. Step 5, with the window all the way up, check that the glass is touching the seal towards the rear of the car just like the front. If not, then adjust the rear glass guide to make the correction.

I'm not sure which part you are referring to as the "rear most regulator arm guide"

Horizontal flow vs vertical flow…the Avanti had side tanks and other Studes had top and bottom mounted tanks.

Also… Good to have that transmission problem behind you! Considering parts & labor, I think what you paid is a very fair price.

Window… Thr upper window stop would have a major effect on the height issue.. and the rearmost regulator arm guide gives you quite a lot of ‘window angle’ adjustment once you loosen the two retaining bolts.

Hooray for me! My transmission is back from the shop and no longer leaks!. It needed a torque converter replacement, reseal of the front pump because the last seal turned out because of a burr on the case that I overlooked when I installed it previously. Also, the O-ring on the vacuum modulator was too small and fluid was leaking out of there. Total cost for removal, parts and replacement $1500 well worth it to rid me of this headache.

With power steering, the effort required at low speeds will likely be more than what you may be used to on a modern car, It will not be "0ne-finger" steering. The force required at low speeds will be affected by many factors, including: front tire pressure and size, condition and lubrication on the king-pins and steering box, adjustment and condition of the power steering components, and whether the later "quick steering" arms have been installed. Of course, if there's a doubt as to if the power steering is working at all, the easiest way to check is to compare steering effort when parked with the engine running vs without the engine running.

I can’t seem to get my window to go back far enough to seat on the pillar seal and up to the top seal. I have loosened every adjustment I can find, but it won’t move back. What could I me missing

I’ve experienced Studebaker Avantis and early Avanti ll’s (all with p/s) having less steering effort than the later Avanti ll’s (through ‘85) All power steering components are the same between these cars EXCEPT the steering box itself, which was changed out when the supply of Ross boxes ran out. Some say the replacement steering box was originally made for a fork lift … I do not know if that’s true or not. But a change in ratio between the two units could have an effect on steering effort. I can say steering effort in my ‘63 Avanti is definitely less than in my ‘83 Avanti. PS…. It occurred to me that a change was also made in the power steering pump itself, going from the Eaton style to the GM style… If there was less pressure produced by the GM pump, I suppose that could account for additional steering effort.

Keep us posted on your progress. It's been an interesting story to follow for the last eight months.

Well, you nailed the remaining two…. Well done! And yes .. I knew there was a service letter issued on that window circuit breaker, but I do not have it, and thought the very last Stude Avantis built may have had that switch moved at the factory?

The power window circuit breaker was moved from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment. However, this may have been after Avanti production ended. Also, a second window stop was added during production.

As an aside… a Stude pal of mine once swapped out a flathead six in a ‘55 Champ coupe with a tall ‘64 overhead valve six… I thought he’d never be able to close the hood over that engine, however, the hood shut with no problem!

What would be the biggest difference between a Studebaker Avanti engine cooling system, and comparable year Studebaker Lark or Hawk engine cooling systems?

No other thoughts here? HINT!….. Things sure are getting hot under there!

That would have been an easy ‘bolt in’…..but it never happened! However these days, with fuel prices being what the are, the idea isn’t that far fetched!! 😉

False

The system on the Avanti is more similar to the 60's Ford models where you have a control valve connected to the gear box that makes a hydraulic cylinder (ram) push or pull on a bell crank pivot (mounted on the crossmember under the engine) which connects to the wheels by 2 long tie rods. The design isn't as quick as a more modern GM PS gear box and there are several places where problems may occur. Usually it's either a sloppy, worn out bushings/pins or leaking control valve, ram and hoses. The control valve design does have 1 pressure adjustment that improves its effectiveness. The end cap of the valve assembly has 2 slotted screws in it. If you remove the end cap, there is a nut that you can adjust to change the pressure. You want to tighten the nut all the way to tight and then loosen by One Flat. This gives you the highest pressure. Any decent rebuilder should know this, but it needs to be check. If you have fluid in the cap when you remove it, then the spool valve seals are leaking. The control valve has a spool inside of it that moves back and forth to send fluid to the ram to either push or pull depending on the steering wheel / gear box action. The spool valve has identical ends as far as the seals go but it can be installed backwards, which can affect its effectiveness also.

As Studebaker’s days were waning and engine supplies dwindling, Avantis were offered with the venerable flat head six for export, although the discounted option was never documented.

Hello Dwight, good news… received the refurbished booster today. Thank you very much for all your help! / regards, Paul

Our 1991 Conv pretty much except the wheels and tires, stock. Now showing 50,200 miles.