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Yes, the degree of difficulty will rise on the walnut wheel. However, as with every other aspect of life, Google is your friend. A search results in several "How To" links to restoring and replicating wood grain on plastic steering wheels used on the Avanti and several GM cars built in the 1960s. It just takes time and that's why the folks who restore wheels charge what they do. Materials required are inexpensive. It's the hours of labor that jacks up the cost.

I’d imagine trying to replicate the ‘walnut’ paint look would be a real challenge… I’ve seen, on a few of the later Avantis, that Studebaker used a ‘straight brown’ color on the steering wheel on a few of their ‘walnut grain dash/console cars.

Resurrecting an older thread…. Years ago I saw a photo of an Avanti R2 engine whose owner had somehow installed a dual groove idler pulley to the right (viewing engine from the front) and slightly higher than the factory iron water pump pulley…….. This took all supercharger belt pressure off of the water pump bearings… although it required custom bracketry and longer supercharger drive belts…..Interesting modification I thought! PS… water pump was still turned by alternator belt.

Thanks, filler material is two part slow drying epoxy. Drying time: 24-48 hours for best results for shaping, grinding, and sanding. Paint is primer, base coat, and clear coat. Color matching and painting were both done by a local auto body shop. I can't weld and I can't paint. But, after a lot of research and YouTube video watching I felt I could do the rim rebuilding. All of the "grunt" work prior to painting was done in my garage. If you do it yourself, plan on many hours with a Dremel tool, power sander, mini file set, and progressively finer sand paper. I'll be working on my walnut Avanti wheel next.

I was able to get seals from local supplier ( bearing,belt, and chain)

It's one step forward two steps back. My steering gear box was dry so I filled it. Today I woke up to a puddle of oil under the car! Does anyone have a source or part number for the sector shaft seal on a 72? I couln't find it on any of the regular Studebaker parts sources. Thanks. (also my overheating problem is resolved. Holding steady at 170 degrees!)

Thank-you. I figured that was the case. My 87 (on the Monte Carlo base) had that pump. I wanted to install it on the 72, but there is not enough clearance for it on the Studebaker frame so I had to go with the smaller pump.

Some of the fuel pumps had 3 connections on them. The smaller push on fitting was for the return line back to the fuel tank. It is possible that someone installed the incorrect fuel pump that does not have the return fitting on it. If so, you will need to plug it off.

Very nice job! What did you use as the "filler"? And what did you use to paint it.......... rattle can........single stage.........Base coat clear coat? Or..........

Try it sometime with your Avanti. Just keep both hands on the spokes and not on the rim. I drove it that way for a while until I got the replacement later style walnut wheel. Kind of like flying an airplane. 😎

Amazing that the fellow you bought your Avanti from was steering it using just the two spokes… I just can’t picture that!!

This is the Chevy motor we are taking about now. It has a Quadrajet carburetor with the internal fuel filter. There's only one line from the fuel pump to the carb. So I don't see where a return line would connect?

I believe that individual assembly techs did some things their own individual way rather than some official standardization. I’ve seen power trunk releases under the dash on the side of the steering wheel and some on the right side. The same might be at play in other assembly areas.

Thanks! In my case, the welding was done by a retired high school metals shop teacher who also taught welding at the local junior college. The rest of the rebuilding/filling/grinding/sanding was my DIY project. I figured I'd give it a try and couldn't ruin it more than it was when I got it.

The T-fitting on the frame should have a pipe plug in the bottom of it, which can be removed for draining the tank. On the passenger side of the engine, there should be three lines at the fuel filter: - one line going into the filter -one going from the filter to the carb -one smaller line going from the filter back to the tank. Is it perhaps this smaller return line you're looking at? Sometime in the past someone may have made a "modification" that you may need to undo.

When it came to real finace welding the guys who built custom bicycles were the guys who could weld those specialty items. Your redone wheel looks like new, great job.

It interesting that the moonroof would have this type of circuitry in it. Aside from the relay I can't imagine what the rest of it, like the IC's, would do. But, Avanti Motors did some strange things so who knows!

My 72 has a line coming from the fuel line drain tee on the frame. It goes up and ends on the passenger side of the engine. I had to plug it or else fuel comes running out. Where is this thing supposed to go? Or should it not even supposed to be there. I thought the tee on the frame was supposed to have a plug in it to drain fuel if needed.

I am open to hear what you think is a fair price, materials are minimal, time less than half hour a pair. Guy

very creative and well done. If some of us want to "make you an offer" to reproduce, have you considered that? Mark

Thank you. Unfortunately, the Walnut wheel recently came loose at the welds which prompted me to get serious about fixing the original steering wheel. The Walnut wheel will be the next project.

I think that you did an absolutely beautiful job on the original wheel… but I suppose you could have also just repainted the walnut wheel for the same effect? (maybe you did not want to ruin an original walnut Stude Avanti steering wheel!)

Avanti steering wheels are prone to breaking at the welds attaching the steering wheel spokes to the rim. When I bought my ’63 R2 50 years ago, the owner had been steering the car with just the two steering wheel spokes. The rim of the wheel had broken loose and was in the trunk. I replaced the steering wheel with the last new one Standard Surplus had - a brown fake wood colored unit used on the 1964 Avantis. My plan was to get the rim of the original fawn colored steering wheel rewelded to the spokes and somehow make it look new again. As I mentioned, that was 50 years ago. Over the years, I took my broken steering wheel to several welding shops to see about getting it fixed. No one wanted to try for fear of melting the adjacent plastic on the rim. A few months ago, I found a welder who did the job. Then, it was time to rebuild and shape several inches of the rim where plastic material had been removed to accommodate the two welds. The final step was to paint the steering wheel. Pictures of the process are below.

63stick, since you too are in NJ there is a terrific starter & alternator shop in Morgan NJ, if you need parts or a professional rebuild call 732-727-4486 The business is Central Jersey Starter & Alternator They are on RT 35 South, South of the Amboy Bridge. I had them rebuild both for my 64 Avanti R2 and SuperHawk R1. Also, I had parts from others that were combined to make a few perfect rebuilds. Very reliable and fairly priced. They have a huge inventory of stuff related. Mark

I'm pretty sure that Dan at Nostalgic Motors has it.