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Hi 64studebakerAvanti- Yeh lots of shims but it is an Avanti II with a Chevy engine so I wonder if that's why. About an inch at the Hogtroughs. When I put the body back on I will be looking as to whether I might eliminate a few, perhaps. Your comment about Rubber insulators for the Mufflers - are these rubber Suspension Straps for the restraint of the Exhaust system or something else? I have recently had a full dual Exhaust bent up and fitted to this chassis buildup.

Wow Zedman, a lot of shims. I have removed bodies from 3 Stude Avantis and have experienced a lot fewer shims. Basically, the steel shims I have encountered are 1/8" and 1/4". Maybe total of 1/2" inch at cowl. The hogs had at most 1/4". You do not seem to have the rubber shims that insulated the mufflers. They are located just where the exhaust pipes come in at front and where they exit at the rear of the x member.

I have owned many boats, rv's and vehicles, never bought any of them to 100% make money. I bought to enjoy that said item. I wanted the enjoyment that item would give me and my wife. Been blessed that our hard work and saving has allowed us the life style we have. Yes, a few things i bought did sell for a tad more than purchase, but that was not why we bought. We got the use, that was what we wanted, could afford and had the time to use. So when I decide to sell this Avanti conv, I will sell for whatever I can get at that time. Will I loose money, probably, but have enjoyed the car when we were out and getting thumbs up from others. Everyone has different wants/needs and desires, much is what they can afford. I figured we can't take it with us so might as well have fun while we are here to enjoy. t

Grant mills i do not have the measurements for the spring they are already mounted plus I think my grandfather might have built a coustom spring pack. Each pack has a total of 8 springs and the top one is flipped. Thank you everyone for the great feed back

MFG. Good points and the stability of the markets is not always predictable.... but research over (say) 10+ years can show trends.. with market fluctuations. That said. Your 401K plans are also at risk of the same thing.. (I lost my ass(ets) in 2008). Being I went down the standard investment s... hole in the past, these Vehicles are a far more stable market, BUT.. They must be treated as such IF Your going to get ahead in the vehicle game. And it to me is a safer investment.. Like any Investment much research and time must be done to follow trends. I'm not a Master in that realm but I have watched the Vehicles rise and fall a little,,, but nothing near as bad as the Markets. I also see better offerings in the Vehicle Markets because YOU set the Purchase prices by buying at (say) 50% or more from what the Market is bringing.. Not true when doing stocks/bonds. Their prices are set... no fluctuations. No Negotiations. That said, IF You buy well below market value, You should be safe. You see. I'm in this to win,,, not just because I love a certain model car. As said... I can't afford to lose ... and so far so good. This must offend many that I'm not buying for the desire to own a certain model... BUT.. I do get to buy them.... Just under my terms.

I will also add that (in my opinion) the condition and history of the specific car being sold means much more than a broad 1-5 valuation system…. A condition 1-5 evaluation may be practical for modern vehicles, but for a 50+ year old car there are just too many variables.

I understand your strategy, however no one can be sure if a collector car’s value will increase or decrease over a specific time period… and as I mentioned earlier, sale prices on many collector type vehicles seem (to me) to have held steady or somewhat decreased.

I know this is going to possible\y offend or disturb some, but it's where I have to be. There's an old saying...."The profits are made at the time of purchase!" So to not be aware of the end game market price, and knowing if or if not the Market on the Vehicle will increase is a major loss to many folks . ... I can't (won't) buy without a significant built in profit. I see too many people buying just because it's their dream car. That attitude can be very costly in the end game. If You can afford funding losses, Enjoy! (Would You do this with Your stock investments?) I have to approach any ''Hobby'' as a ''Business Venture''. No matter how much I LOVE the Hobby, if it doesn't show a profit, I personally can't afford to participate. This means, that I also won't restore or Retro a vehicle unless the calculated end game makes a profit (labor included)... I'm just not in the Financial Class to afford to make big mistakes. I'm glad many of You have expendable cash to play with, but that's not the hand of cards that I was dealt.

Doing a Frame-off rebuild is a challenge, but boy oh boy, the satisfaction is so rewarding. . Not to mention the ease of buildup because you can get at everything because it's right in front of you. The feedback you are getting is dead accurate but I'll post some photos for your benefit. The following comments and photos relate to my 1981 Avanti II The 1/8" approx rubber 'tyre sidewall material' live up on the Crossmemeber above the Rear Axle as shown in the picture. These were not bolted- rather just taped on. I think these were an anti chafe measure There are two Rubber Doughnuts (water splash mitigation?) interposed between the upper X Frame rails and the body where the Seat Belt bolts go through At the 'A" pillar/Toeboard there are a stack of large 1/4" thick shims- the top one of these is longer to offer more contact with the fibreglass and is not shown that way in one photo, but is in a closeup.. At each Body mounting along the Frame there is a stack of 1/8" STEEL Shims 1 1/2" x 2" (and some thinner ones for fine adjustment) There is a STEEL shim at the rearmost tubular steel crossmember pad- mine only had one of 1/8" and it measured approx 1/12" x 3" And just in case you don't have one, (add one !) there is a Battery box Reinforcement bar up front and on the left top Frame The photos here should show all of these details...

I didn’t buy my car with investment in mind, I just wanted one, and when it comes times to sell I’ll get what I can. Mike Exactly, these cars to me was not an investment vehicle, but something my wife and I wanted. When the time comes to sell it off, we will end up with whatever the buyer is willing to spend. I can say well it is worth SO MUCH, but unless the buyer comes up with that amount , it isn't worth that. It will be worth what the buyer and I agree to.

It's good if You have the free cash to do so.

That's as realistic an attitude a one could have.

My brother-in-law had Memory Lane Motors in the Seattle area for 20 years. People who had spent a lot of money restoring their car and decided to sell would bring them in to see about selling on consignment. With parts, paint, tires and wheels, new upholstery, etc, it was very easy to have more in their car than the market would support. I didn’t buy my car with investment in mind, I just wanted one, and when it comes times to sell I’ll get what I can. Mike

RQB3263/81 .... WELL NOW THAT MY FRONT "A" ARM BUSHING PROJECT IS COMPLETE .....ALIGNMENT IS NEXT THIS WEEK.... THEN NEXT IS THE TRACK BAR BUSHINGS AND REAR SHOCKS ..... IM LOOKING FOR ADVICE AND SOURCE MFG AND P/N FOR UP-GRADED REAR SHOCKS .... THANKS ALL .... HAPPY THANKSGIVING FROM THE FREE STATE OF FLORIDA.... BILL

I was curious about that. Thanks for the info.

wow, I just saw this message .....Sorry I missed you

http://studebaker-info.org/stangundry.html

I'm another one of the folks having problems getting my brakes to pump up after replacing all the fluid-touching parts last year. I bought a pressure bleeder. When my schedule and the weather allow, I will attempt to use the bleeder to force more fluid through the system than what can be done using the master cylinder alone. I've done everything else that was suggested or I could find on my own.

Hagerty claims their values are based on sales data and automotive expertise. 70% of the sales data is peer to peer, 20% from auctions and 10% from dealers. Like any guide, it is a starting point. Another source is Collector Car Market Review. Their values are generally lower, but their #1 condition is roughly the same as Hagerty's #2.

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong: I believe Hagerty's values are based on what their database shows as what they and their customers are currently stating as the agreed value of the vehicles, not necessarily what the vehicles will sell for. From that prerspective, Hagerty's values may be inflated. On the other hand, any value ascribed by bring-a-trailer is an an average of the selling price of recently sold examples.

Can not even count the amount of IS THAT A KIT CAR? What is it???questions over the years. The older folks, seem to know but anyone younger have no clue.

I realize this is an older thread, but I took a chance an ordered a full set of Gabriel Classic shocks. For the front I ordered 82087 from RockAuto and they appear to be spot on for 3.5" for the length so it must be like you said that there are either suppler and/or manufactures differences. I've attached a few pictures. Kim

I now realize the threads in the carb that take the fuel filter housing are really worn. I acquired a new fuel filter housing but that didn't solve the huge leaking problem. I am now looking for a old timer that can reconstruct the threads in the carb housing for me.

Shifting group for sure.

Does anybody know the current status of this parts car? Was last sold in the San Antonio, Tx area.