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Originally sold in California. Something about California requiring an extra digit or letter.

For those who know, what does the suffix "A" mean on a 1963 serial number, such as R-1234A?

Rebuilt original Auto. Twin Traction.

It's been many years since I owned a '63 but I know that while the dash is out makes it the right time to do anything with the radio. I don't remember what size the front speaker is...whether it's a 5"x7" or a 4"x10" but either should be easily sourced. The bigger issue is making sure the speaker is of the proper impedance or the sound will be bad. With an original radio which is quite large compared to modern units the selection of speakers isn't good as a speaker with a larger magnet will not work as it won't fit against the top of the radio. There may be some decent speakers available today but you need to check the impedance and vertical dimensions for clearance.

Thank You regnalbob, That's awesome, Looking at the wire, I knew it had to be factory supplied and figured dealer installed. Only thing that made sense was that it was a bypass for the resistor, but I didn't want to take a chance. What I still don't understand is why it's so long. I wrapped many wraps around the harness. I guess what I can do is just run it along the harness and then wrap it and zip tie it under the shielding. Those service letters are fantastic. Thank you again

Gunslinger, Sorry, I was just kidding about static, talk shows because there is nothing on AM that I would listen to. Had been going back in forth about upgrading the radio. I like my car original, It still has the original Stereo magic Reverb in it the dealer installed when it was new. and as I mentioned in post, it's not going to be a daily driver. I overhauled the original radio and it works fine. I just thought that now is the time if I am going to upgrade or it won't get done. Once I drop the dash back in, I don't want to go in there again. I also don't want or need to spend a lot of money on a head unit if I don't need to. My hearing is so bad, I don't need really good equipment. I am not cutting anything out to add speakers. If I could find a rear deck, I would, I did find one but they want $150 shipping. I would probably be better off to use mine for a templet and make one. I have a roll of the original viny that's doing nothing but collecting dust and making a home for mice. Any speaker that you know of that fits the front. Thanks

Something else...does your car still have the RFI shielding over the distributor and spark plug wires? If not that could be the source of the noise. Fiberglass has no natural RFI properties and shielding is needed. Spark plug wires could be the cause as spark plugs could be as well if not shielded or resistance rated.

Is the static you hear a constant tone or does it go up and down with engine rpm's? If it stays constant it's ignition noise. If it increases and decreases with rpm's it alternator whine. A condenser in the proper place may take care of it...just need to know where. You can also mount a noise filter in the power lead to the radio. Other possibilities...the antenna itself may have lost ground...make sure it's properly grounded. There's usually a wire from the antenna to a bolt under trunk carpet that's grounded. Also the radio may need the antenna "trimmed"...a lost art few today are aware of. To trim the antenna...remove the right knob on the radio and you'll see a screw above the shaft. Tune the radio to a station...fairly strong...around 1400. Then using a small screwdriver turn the screw until the radio gives best reception. Once you get best reception and sound the antenna is trimmed. You can also spray some electronics cleaner inside the radio...I've seen that clear up noise problems before. If this fixes things you're good to go without buying a new radio. If you feel it necessary to replace the radio...look at Custom Auto Sound. They should have something that's drop-in for the car.

Here is the Studebaker Service Letter.

I have a green wire with black tracer that I had bagged years ago when I took the car apart. I wrote on bag, goes from starter solenoid across fire wall and for whatever reason I didn't say where it went. It's a lot longer than needed to go to coil. I wrapped it around the harness along the run. I don't like how it looks if it does go to coil. I think maybe when I was taking the car apart, I wasn't concerned as everything is in a harness. It's a factory wire as it has the 90 degree push on terminal for the solenoid. The other end has an open connector. My R2 doesn't have it. I have seen on a few cars on BAT the wire but can't see where it goes. No mention in shop manual of it. I was thinking maybe it would go to coil, bypassing the resistor for start-up but don't want to assume that. That would only be possible if That terminal on solenoid is momentary, energized when key is in start position. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

Getting ready to drop my dash back in and though I was going to keep original radio in it, I thought last night of changing it out. I don't want to go crazy as car is not going to be a daily driver but it would be nice to be able to listen to something other than talk radio over static. Any suggestions on make, model #. I'm not going to install anything that would require modifying the dash. Also speakers that mate up to existing mounting holes. Thanks

Ron... Sounds like Your buying them right and bringing them back.

Looks to be a real nice Stude! Auto or four speed? Very reasonable price I think.

I installed Flowmaster cast iron ramhorns headers on my sbc conversion in my 63, very good quality and fit, not cheap, I first ordered a welded tube type ramhorn quality was horrible had to return. Guy.

Thank-you. Does anyone know what psi I should be seeing to the ram?

Yes, that’s it!…..R5642 has the red interior.

It could be either, assuming that you followed the system bleeding process? With the engine running, turn the steering wheel lock to lock a dozen times to get the air out of the system. The only way that I know to diagnose the cause is to install a pressure gauge in the ram hoses to see what's happening. Other than that, it's a guessing game.

Minor increased tire width doesn't affect alignment settings. If it has power steering, then you want as much positive caster as possible and zero-1/2 positive camber. 1/4" toe in is preferrable.

I'm about to complete a "save" restoration on a 1989 Conv with a musician history. It's going up for sale in January to someone who wants that year model car in great condition. Meanwhile, I just bought a 63 R2 in Black that has been going through a full restoration for several years for $15K. The owners age and health have made him decide to sell it to someone who can take it the rest of the way, and that's me.

Thank you for the information!

But, one should not put radial tires on the original thin, 15x5 wheels. Most use 15x6 or 15x6.5 Ford wheels with radials. (There are other options.) --Dwight

"So what if You took 2 ea. of the $3600 examples and made 1. Is that sensible? You'll likely still need to buy parts and then labor needs considered." This makes sense only if one of the Avantis is missing some major parts, like seats, engine, etc. More typically, these project Avantis are more or less complete, but need the same things: engine work, upholstery, brakes, exhaust, suspension, hog troughs, etc. They've all been the victim of "deferred maintenance." I am currently doing these repairs to R-4228 (R1, AT, PS, AC - a desirable combination) and it is a seemingly endless task list. When I get it to the point of being a car that someone will want to drive (reliable, safe) I'll sell it (for a loss) to someone who will take the car the rest of the way. My justification: I will have "saved" an Avanti. I have two other Studebakers ('64 Avanti R3 & '56 Golden Hawk) currently underway, so time is short for working on R-4228. --Dwight, powered by Studebaker

Original. Lescoa made Ash Trays etc for Chrysler also like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/127534753074

Nelson... Agree it's usually a financial decision, and I'm seeing the values increase on the '63-4' models...(can't speak for the other models,(cept '01'-'07) since I don't follow them). A completed and very good car in that time range can bring $30-40k depending on condition and options (The R2 bringing more). These prices bring the Avanti into a sensible range to consider resto'ing if the subject isn't too far gone. So what if You took 2 ea. of the $3600 examples and made 1. Is that sensible? You'll likely still need to buy parts and then labor needs considered. Mine, I bought a fine example of a '63' R2. I paid $17k w/ shipping .. It needs some small things, but I consider it worth $35k. To me, this is a ''Keeper'' but there's room on the top if I ever decided to sell off. But others here are not interested in all of the math and spend due to their Love of the vehicle. I guess that's a personal choice but I can't do that. If I did, (as said in multiple) I couldn't afford to be a collector. But we ''Road On!''

I don’t know where you are located but you might try Keith Graham in Apache Junction, Arizona. He has an Avanti he is parting out.