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For various reasons, I am getting out of the Avanti ownership hobby. This very early Avanti – the 28th one made for public sale (Chassis # 63R-1028)– has been in the family since 1968. It is an R1 with automatic transmission and was built in July 1962. After 30 years of ownership and serving as daily driver for my father-in-law Richard Zimmerman, I then purchased it from him in 1998. From 1999 – 2001 it was treated to a professional, frame-off restoration which included new “hogs troughs” and frame rebuild. It has been lovingly treated since then. There is zero rust under it. All the chrome was replated at that time and still presents as new. I replaced the interior carpet, trunk carpet and dash pad in 2002. The steering wheel is like new. The R1 engine was bored out to 304.5 and rebuilt when it had approximately 85,000 miles on it. The odometer shows 112,151 miles now. The Carter 4bbl was rebuilt by Dave Thibault 4 years ago. Only 100% 91 octane gasoline (no gasohol) has been used in it, with lead replacer gas additive. The mechanical fuel pump has been removed and an electronic fuel pump installed, which removes the threat of vapor lock, and provides good priming when starting it after sitting for a long time. The re-chromed air cleaner houses a recently recharged K&N filter. Brakes: The single reservoir master cylinder has been replaced with a dual master cylinder for safety reasons. Rear brakes – pads and wheel cylinders – were professionally replaced last year. The entire brake system plumbing was also replaced then with copper-alloy ("NICOPP"), DOT-approved brake lines. Upper and lower radiator hoses were replaced at that time too. The front turn signals, and rear lights, brake and signals have been converted to LED bulbs and electronic flasher for much brighter brake and signal lights. This car scored 391 points at the 2009 Cedar Rapids Studebaker International Meet. But wait! It’s really a Studebaker Avanti Owner’s Starter Kit! Included with the sale are the following: Original steel wheels – four (4) – used, no cracks, good shape Lightly used tires mounted on above wheels – no weather checking Show quality wheel covers – Three (3) - used Wheel cover with a scratch – One (1) – used The following items were purchased over the course of 28 years to have on hand if and when parts on the car should fail or need replacing: Dual Point set – new Distributor cap – new Rotor – new Condenser – new Pertronix electronic ignition - #1584 – new AM Radio – used, untested, was told it works. Starter motor, complete – new/rebuilt Armature for starter motor – spare, appears new Voltage regulator - new Fram PH11 Oil filters – Seven (7) – new 1 engine fan with viscous – new NOS front coil springs – Two (2) – new Front disc brakes – very used Carpet underlayment, carpet pieces Red rear light and signal lenses – Four (4) – new Red rear light and signal lenses – Two (2) – used “C” pillar badge frame – chrome – One – new Chrome shift knob – used Carburetor dash pot/kicker – used Seat belt anchors Rear wheel cylinder – rebuilt Rear wheel cylinder – used but OK Water pumps – two (2) – new Stainless engine static shield kit complete – used Front wheel spindle – one (1) – NOS Door latches two (2) – new Air cleaner element – lightly used Steering wheel center, chrome – New Electric fuel pump – new Fan/Blower motor – NOS Interior rear-view mirror – repop, new Glove compartment doors – Very used Dash pad – original to car, used Door springs two (2) – NOS Chrome oil breather caps – two (2) – used Mechanical fuel pump to rebuild – used Mechanical fuel pump – rebuilt – new Inside vent screens – Two (2) – NOS Transmission pressure plates – seven (7) – NOS Electronic LED turn signal flasher, spare Mechanical turn signal flasher – original, works with incandescent Avanti Parts Manual Avanti Shop Manual Stan Gundry’s “What the Shop Manual Won’t Tell You” What it needs: - Wiper switch (wipers work, they just won’t “home” consistently when shut off.) - Seams and welting on the backs of the front seats could be freshened up. There are no cracks, rips or fading in the seat vinyl anywhere. - Interior “C” pillar vinyl is stained and could be replaced or painted. - Glove box door shuts hard because the dash pad is one of those early reproductions that is “off” in one corner. - Windshield washer bag and tubing should be replaced. - Paint is now 25 years old and could use a professional cleaning and buffing. It’s a good “ten-footer”. This car is mechanically sound – you can drive it home. In summary, this car is in a good position for someone to take it to the next level to become a consistent show winner. Or, drive it and turn heads just as it is. The car and all the parts listed – the whole works – is offered for sale at $33,000 OR BEST OFFER. Includes the car AND all the goodies listed above. Low-ball offers will preclude you from further consideration, so be serious with your interest and intentions. The car and parts are located near New Boston, IL To schedule your time to see and test-drive the car in person, call or text me at 815-seven-five-1, four-eight-6- two. Or email me at rshurson@frontiernet.net. There are A TON more pictures - so if there is anything specifically you'd like to take a closer look at, LET ME KNOW. Thank you for your interest.

There are appx 1 inch holes inset at the upper rear of the front doors on my 1990 4 dr. These receive screws and spacer tubes from the body and help position the doors. But some part is missing a rubber bumper? Anyone have an intact one? While I'm on board, does anyone have an intact cover for the passenger side A/C system, under the dash? A photo of either of these items would be welcome!

Thank you for info on the 63 R1. I'm looking for Car more like Skip Lackie's 1974 Avanti II. His car checks all the things I am looking for. I would like a reliable driver in the Philadelphia, PA area. (250 mile radius). Thank you, Howard

I am in need of the drivers side rear stabilizer shaft support for a 64 Avanti. It is part number 1557477. New or used is fine.

Hello , my 67 have the original brake booster and i rebuild it with a kit for 1966/70 CHRYSLER B body; but you can find easely a new one https://themoparshop.com/shop/1966-1970-mopar-b-body-bendix-style-brake-booster/

Make them yourself is probably the easiest way.

Where I was going was long term. With the solenoid in line, the gas will shut off and keep gas from flowing whether minimal in the tank or if the tank is full. Plus, I have mine wired to the ignition through a barrel switch which is hidden and must be turned on to open the solenoid. If someone tries to steal the car, they'll get a few hundred yards. Good luck.

New booster and master cylinder from Stude Int'l four years ago. The seating depth in the m/c was less than on the original m/c and the booster was physically a bit different, larger I think, than the one I took off. Bottom line, the rod on the booster had to be screwed almost all the way in for the proper adjustment. Now the booster has failed. So I'm wondering if I got the correct booster and/or m/c from SI or if my original setup was incorrect. My m/c is good but I'm willing to replace that as well if I can get the right combination. Recommendations for the booster, m/c and/or both? Thanks folks. I'll appreciate any and all input.

Thank you. I’m still trying to find a source for those special bolts. I’m missing a total of 3.

In the lower picture, the nut is missing. The vent window should have two of these adjustment bolts/nuts: One in the to and one in the bottom. In your case the top one should be completely in and the bottom one out, then locked with the nut. The missing bolt is needed also. Have a look in the manual for details.

Okay, I've used a piece of the a-pillar seal. Works great, no more leaks!

I'm getting ready to take my starter apart to install a new starter drive (pinion gears). Anything I need to worry about or is it pretty straight forward? Thanks.

63 R1 for sale on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/872126840554247/user/1469582106

The hydraulic switches sold today are manufactured offshore…apparently to low standards. Even NOS switches are old enough to be of questionable value. Mechanical switches are the way to go. They take about an hour’s effort to install. Then you can just disconnect the hydraulic switch and tape off the wires and contacts. Stan Gundry in his book gives the instructions on how to do the install…what’s needed and what needs fabricated.

I’ve about ‘had it’ with hydraulic brake light switches! Around four months ago the hydraulic switch quit in my Speedster… The guy behind me in traffic was good enough to stop me and let me know that I didn’t have brake lights… Bad switch!……Today, I took my ‘63 Avanti in for an inspection sticker… and once again had no stop lights due to a failed hydraulic switch…... I replaced the hydraulic switches in both cars… however, if this happens again, I’m going with a modern mechanical brake light switch, as used in later Avantis and many other cars.

Good morning, I saw the photo of Skip Lackie's 1974 Avanti II. He mentioned about selling it. I thought I was sending this message to him. I have been interested in Avanti's since I first saw one in 1963. I was 14 years old and it made quite an impression. Thank you for such a swift reply, Howard

Thanks Mel.. but there was only 4 gal's in the tank which brings the level below the carb.

R-4561 - For sale on FaceBook / This is Bob Doehlers original car. Not really a shadow of the original spec tho'. The car was ordered in Black with black leather seats. Doehler used this car as a test bed for design changes, like the obvious square headlight bezels that are fixed above the surface plane of the front panel. I have a pic of the original steering wheel ( Black) https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=10173502845490207&set=gm.1467117894388469&idorvanity=872126840554247 Archived listing https://studebaker-info.org/avantix4.html#r4561 I messaged the seller a couple months before regarding this... no response I posted a comment a few day back......... no response The new generation..... meh!

Do you know the year model range that you are interested in buying?

Good morning, I am new to the group and looking for a car. Is yours for sale? Can you please post more photos? Thank you, Howard

A full tank, coupled with the high setting of the tank, can have the gas level above the carburetor float inlet valve. A sticking float can have disastrous consequences. dan-marc.com has a 12v fuel shutoff valve which I put in line at the bottom of the tank and wired into the ignition circuit. AOAI issue #170 page 47 has the write up. Good luck and keep us posted.

The one with the thick head has been turned on a lathe. The thin one is original. Interesting.

Yes the #4 main bearing cap has special bolts. (Studs). If yours are missing Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker lists them.

Ron, thank you very much for this detailed response. i will have to check the system out as you described. Bob