All Activity

thanks for your answer , can you put a picture about it😊 Thanks

Yes, that’s me ‘mfg’… and 22692 has always been my lucky number.

False is correct!

I have one from a 1972 Avanti and the color looks like it is Chevy orange, same as the engine.

Someone posted a photo of markings in glove box vanity, I found these markings on glove box door.

Based on Bob Johstones Studebaker Resource website, it would say False. According to his information, the front was raised 3". At least 3" above the front wheels and the front fender. Newman - Altman spent 1965 re-engineering the car for the GM engine, upgraded upholstery and other amenities. There were no official 1965 models. Any cars titles as a 1965 are rare, most are regarded as '66' models. In '65, the R-series engine options under Studebaker also disappeared and the vehicle numbering system went from "R-xxxx' to 'RQA-xxxx'. They adapted the GM 327 Cubic inch/300 HP through a custom bellhousing and coupled it to the existing Powershift (FMX type) transmission. The remainder of the car stayed, as Studebaker had produced it, with the exception of the emblems.< The installation of the new engine required the body to be pivoted upward in front, in order to accomodate its dimensions. This was accomplished by using varying thicknesses of steel shims along the frame mounting points. The resulting, additional, three inch gap between the fender and top of the wheel was remedied by installing filler pieces at the top of the wheel opening.

I’ve heard that before… I think part of the problem there is that the later Avanti ll’s were hamstrung with a really ‘tall’ rear axle ratio, which greatly hurt off the line performance.

Good thoughts Gunslinger. Thanks

Re; mfg post. The hawk rear brake is 'self energizing' The Avanti, while slightly larger, is not. That makes the Hawk brake much more efficient. I'm not sure why they did this; I can only guess that the Dunlop discs in the front require a huge amount of pressure and therefore a good, functioning power brake booster. (One of the first things you must learn as an Avanti driver is NEVER tailgate!) Perhaps the engineers were seeking balance with the less-than-good rear brakes. (The power booster would compensate for the systems deficiencies - but then the used a kinda not-so-great booster.)

I had a 1963 R2 and now have a 1980 with a 350 SBC. I really do not think that the later performs quite as well as the former.

Hi every one , i'm gone put a 4 speed T10 in my car and this one have a red color ( it came from another early Avanti II), i've seen some other one with the same color ( not Avanti ) , do you know if it's an early Ford red engine color and does any one have the same with this color? Thanks David

I like GM Quadrajets when they’re working correctly… The non electronic version on my ‘83 ‘everyday driver’ never skips a beat!

I wish I did… My ‘63 is doing the same thing…… Only clue I have is I replaced the wiper switch with a rather rare NOS part… with no improvement. These switches need to be grounded to chassis, and mine is.

Quadrajet Power, Your One Stop Quadrajet Shop

I did that to my 63 and there's still a problem. Rebuilt motor, new wiring harness, (by previous owners) all connections look good. Switch position>action as follows: turned all counter clockwise= high speed, next detent clockwise is off, next position range is low/variable. No parking of arms when turned off in 2nd position. Any ideas? Thank you!

Brad, I'm adding A/C to my R2 using Rogers brackets. The side mount refrigerant ports on the compressor look perfect in your photo. Do you remember the compressor part #? (v groove belt)

Standard part # ES110 is electric with a mounting bracket. I'm sure the bracket won't work on the carb, but you can modify it as needed to use. The solenoid by itself is Standard ES9.

Before I get with a vendor, I want to check and see if anyone has a new dash that they bought and then didn't use it. Thank you!

I would think that with the stock dual belt setup...unless you have belts with perfectly matched lengths...that the shorter one would end up taking most of the load even if the difference was minor...and lead to earlier failure of that belt. That doesn't even address the the longer belt would be more prone to slippage.

I believe these are the Chicom copies that receive various comments online. The good thing about them appears to be the bellcrank arrangement for the throttle- it appears to be the same as the originals and a drop-on-fit, plus the correct orientation of the fuel inlet (skewed to one side). These can be had much cheaper if you buy them online on Temu and Amazon- 'Bricks and Mortar' stores need to put their profit margin on top. Beware there are two CFM models... the ones for large capacity engines (750 CFM) are actually way cheaper than the ones for pedestrian 350's and 305's (650 CFM) but on the whole pretty inexpensive all around. Most of 'em even come with a kit of various jet sizes. I'm just about done trying to find a Quaddie with electric choke and the correct Bellcrank here in Oz, and despite my reservations, will probably end up with a Chicom. https://www.temu.com/ul/kuiper/un9.html?subj=goods-un&_bg_fs=1&_p_jump_id=894&_x_vst_scene=adg&goods_id=601100904891709&sku_id=17597587194867&adg_ctx=a-3935607e~c-5992c87d~f-d01a0905&_x_ads_sub_channel=shopping&_p_rfs=1&_x_ns_prz_type=-1&_x_ns_sku_id=17597587194867&_x_ns_gid=601100904891709&mrk_rec=1&_x_ads_channel=google&_x_gmc_account=5403696277&_x_login_type=Google&_x_ns_gg_lnk_type=adr&_x_ads_account=4525514603&_x_ads_set=22941029271&_x_ads_id=184778158539&_x_ads_creative_id=771606302339&_x_ns_source=g&_x_ns_gclid=Cj0KCQiAx8PKBhD1ARIsAKsmGbcB05R9dI16NMfleCmHQKElaxZo0BE_tzbjNSo0VAAn4A1ylDNg9KQaAqp9EALw_wcB&_x_ns_placement=&_x_ns_match_type=&_x_ns_ad_position=&_x_ns_product_id=5403696277-17597587194867&_x_ns_target=&_x_ns_devicemodel=&_x_ns_wbraid=Cj8KCQiAx8PKBhC9ARIuAFZ07iBPfOFdM3dr7Lir434E1f-8SuBb1PFTHqH5JXFnMms_bG11Ztf1Uo4kohoChz8&_x_ns_gbraid=0AAAAAo4mICEP_ciMPSaknqRKALVeqFnjt&_x_ns_targetid=pla-2437418753229&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22941029271&gclid=Cj0KCQiAx8PKBhD1ARIsAKsmGbcB05R9dI16NMfleCmHQKElaxZo0BE_tzbjNSo0VAAn4A1ylDNg9KQaAqp9EALw_wcB

And a gorgeous Avanti it is!!

As you are probably already aware it is not necessary to raise the body in order to install a Chevy Engine into a Avanti. The Altmans did not like the raked look of the original Avanti . I have a 64 Avanti that has had a Chevy engine in it since 1967 , no body shims , air cleaner or exhaust issues. It does have a Avanti II fan shroud.

If you loosen the through bolt that holds the springs, and the two mounting bolts up top, you can shim between the body and the hinge to lower the deck lid. Adding shims between the hinge and the lid itself will raise it. Often when new weatherstrip is installed, it is done incorrectly. It should NOT be glued against the inner rib the the deck lid all the way around. on the sides, and top it should be 1/4" away, only on the bottom is it glued tight to the edge. Also most replacement rubber is too stiff. Mustang fastback wetherseal is much more pliable, and has the same cross section.

Update on the sway bar dilemma... SI sent me the installation instructions, and they worked for the most part for the center mounts. I actually ended up using some ratcheting bar clamps from my wood shop to get the clamps in place and aligned for the bolt. MUCH easier than the recommended screwdriver and pry into place.... The connections to the lower control arms were a completely different story.... After struggling with the clamps and screwdriver only to end up having the tab fall out of the slot due to prying force.... I pulled out a good old fashioned pipe wrench and the first one attached in less than 15min. The remaining connection required a ratchet strap to pull the sway bar to the control are so that I could then use the pipe wrench to finish it up. I have pictures posted on RQB 3616 FB Page @ https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100090777883233

Good point. Thanks