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I think that all of the pieces are screwed on, with phillips-head screws.

HOW ARE THE DRIP RAILS REMOVED ON A '64, I KNOW ON GM CARS OF THAT ERA, TAPPING WITH A SMALL BLOCK OF WOOD FROM THE BACK SIDE REMOVED THEM,,,

"....Shortly before the Avanti was introduced" would have been way too late. The drive-train system would have had to be re-engineered, and that would have delayed the introduction by quite a bit. Sherwood was in a great hurry, and for good reason. Besides, using Ferrari engines would have driven up the price of the car by a lot, certainly pricing the Avanti out of the (Corvette, Riviera, Tbird) market. I do think that Studebaker should have bored out the R1 & R2 engines 0.080" to make the displacement 302 cu. in. There was a displacement race then and 3-something sounds better than 2-something. Plus, "302" would have separated the R1 & R2 engines from the plebeian 289 engine. And, they could have cast the intake manifolds out of aluminum to take some weight off the front end. Plus, how much more could the R3 exhaust manifolds have cost to manufacture than the regular ones? Adding both of these as standard would have added considerable "wowee" factor when people looked at the engine. Adding, say, $100 to the price of the car might have been worth it. After all, the Avanti wasn't intended to be a volume car, or even a profit maker; it was intended to be a traffic draw at their dealers. Dwight ('63 Avanti R1, '64 Avanti R3)

You got it!

My 4160 has the bimetal coil spring and rod mechanism to interface the idle uptick and choke butterfly. No vacuum set up for the choke system but the vacuum port is used for the advance on the distributor.

Great! If the exhaust pipe curve is original, it will now be positioned lower than normal. Check that the pipe does not hit the steering tie rod. Especially when the front springs are depressed. I have heat riser in correct right side and keep that open without spring.

What about the channels where the nut plates for the seat mount bolts are located? I've seen in other posts that if these channels is not sealed, they act like ducts to move air and any exhaust under the car into the cabin through the floor. The exhaust under the car would be from the tail pipes. The axle, other things under the car, and the shape of the well above the rear axle may create a draft that pull the exhaust forward under the floor.

Turned out to be the heat riser installed on the WRONG (drivers) side by the engine rebuilder. It was free, but did not open when heated up. So I took a spring and wired it open. Now she runs like a scalded dog!

Ferrari offered to supply engines to Studebaker for the Avanti.

In 1962, what was the offer Enzo Ferrari made to Sherwood Egbert shortly before the Avanti was introduced ?

Might be your trunk lid weatherstrip.

I have a t56 currently behind a 4.3 in a very tired s10. It would also be a nice solution and a little googling seems to say the forward shifter position would be close to the stock location in the avanti. But the stupid 4.3 won't die and everyone wants a mint for them now. I picked the used t56 up for $200 when the 4L60e died. I was appalled when I put t56 into Facebook marketplace search now. One good thing about the SBC, lots of options...

So back to the carb. I've seen a some other consensus around the 4160 but there are still some options. Vacuum secondaries? Choke?

Salt & Pepper works just fine describing that particular combination Paul!😉

pics A/C SYST FOR SALE SBC

RQB 81/305 FOR SALE bruary 19 by wildfelr 0 replies 74 views FOR SALE: RQB3263/81/305 ... I RECENTLY REMOVED THE A/C SYSTEM (EXCEPT THE EVAPORATOR) AND AM OFFERING IT FOR SALE...CONTAINS ALL PICTURED PARTS ....HOSES CUT TO FACILITATE REMOVAL... ALUMINUM A-6 COMPRESSOR 2 YRS OLD AND ONLY A COUPLE HRS RUNNING TIME ... SYSTEM OPERATING NORMAL WHEN REMOVED... REMOVED TO FACILITATE OTHER MAINTENANCE ... LOCAL PICK UP IN MELROSE, FLORIDA OR CALL BILL WITH ideas;......please see pics on previous post n .... thanks bruary 19 by wildfelr bruary 19 by wildfelr 0 replies 74 views

I read his article; I think that's what I'll do. I'll keep the original of course so my nephew can decide what to do in the future.

Did that. Battery is good. Took it to be checked, too.

I sealed this 'mystery hole' with a piece of 'sponge plastic' -- I don't know else to call it -- It's that stuff heavy appliances are packed with. I cut a circle slightly larger the hole diameter and plugged it up. Don't know if your set up is like this, but my ('67) motor had a hole about midway back on the bottom of the right exhaust header, as I recall, close to the block; this may have been for a 'heat transfer tube' leading to the carb for the choke. My setup did not require this. I tapped the hole and put a bolt in it to stop it up.

regnalbob, Thanks for the chart. I always thought my carpet and lower door panels were SALT & PEPPER but now I know that it is Fawn & Black.

Nice '64! Not to belabor the point, but I wouldn't worry about setting up some modification and be concerned as to whether you could undo it in the future, unless you were only doing the modification to see if you liked it. Set the car up as you'd like and go from there. I'd probably try to find some GM transmission Guru, unless you are one, and find a 4 speed with an overdrive with an electric control, if such a setup is available. That way, you might be able to keep the original 4 speed setup inside the car. Sounds like a very interesting project. Again, keep us posted. Good luck!

There is a hole under the gas tank that seems to have no purpose. The partition between the tank and rear seat is sealed with dumdum. Perhaps the dumdum is cracked, brittle or otherwise compromised allowing fumes to enter.

yes I did take them to the repair shop

A couple thoughts: 1) Even back in the day those electromagnet voltage regulators were problematic. The VR in my Avanti was converted to modern electronics by Dave Thibeault in Mass. Highly skilled fellow and very helpful. If your VR turns out to be the problem you might give Dave a call (late AM or late PM). 2) There is a modern alternator that looks more or less like the original and includes the VR. It also bolts right on. The conversion is written up in studebaker-info.com (IIRC). This modern (Japanese) alt. should be much more reliable than the original alt. & VR. --Dwight

Could be a weak battery…. Try a multi meter across the battery terminals with engine running… You should see around 14 volts if alternator is charging.