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ronmanfredi suggests you check with Summit Racing Parts for a brand new set… however, I will go over to where I keep my parts tomorrow and physically inspect these two pieces… And yes.. I will email you after I do that to see if you still want them…. expect an email no later than this Sunday eve….Ed

One upgrade that can’t be beat is to change out the run/turn/brake light exterior bulbs to LEDs. (I don't do the headlights since most don't provide the beams the way that I want them). I’ve done this more than once on other vehicles and the result is always excellent. When it comes to the turn signals though, there is always a flashing problem created since the LED bulbs don’t have enough electrical load on them to make the flasher work properly. If you have a 2005 or older Avanti, then you can solve the problem by using a United Pacific 90652 LED Turn Signal Flasher but not on a 2006-2007 S197 Avanti since it does not have one. As Can Bus systems improved, manufacturers like Ford integrated the flasher within a module known as the Smart Junction Box (SJB). Other manufacturers call this a Generic Electronic Module (GEM). In the case of our Avanti’s, the SJB is mounted on the passenger’s kick panel and includes a PC board along with various Can Bus system fuses. The SJB operates other parts of the car like the convertible top, heated rear window, interior and exterior lighting, some instrument cluster components among others. Because of this, the recommended way to make the turn signal and emergency flashers work properly is to add 50-Watt, 6 Ohm resistors to each LED light bulb in the turn signal circuit. These are very common today and I purchased mine off Amazon. For our 06-07 Avanti’s, we need 6 of these since there are 6 turn signal bulbs in the car. Once you read about them or receive them, you’ll discover that they generate heat, enough so that you don’t want to zip tie or tape them to any other plastic part in the car. In my case, I decide to make simple brackets out of 1/6” x 1” aluminum flat metal. For the front, rear and front side marker lights I purchased the Auxito bulb brand off Amazon since I like the bulb design and have used them before without any problems. With the bulbs and resistors in hand, the next thing to do was to make up the brackets for the resistors. The fronts were simple since you can use one of the bumper mounting bolts the extend inside the tire wheel well and simply add a nut to hold the bracket in place. I used blue Loctite on the nuts to be sure they wouldn’t come loose. The rear lights were a little more challenging since you want to stay off of the interior trim pieces / carpet and provide room for the resistors to get some “air”. Once the bulbs and resistors were installed, the bright and crisp lights were now a welcome addition.

When I rebuilt the Dana 44 in my 82 model, I bought the ring/pinion and bearing set from Summit Racing Parts.

I like to buy your #537637 Ring Gear and Pinion 3.31. email to me leo@belik.fi

Don’t worry… I don’t usually sell parts but will never need these, as I have quite a few complete rear end assy’s. I will hold them for you… Let me know.

Please keep it for me. Can you send your email address to leo@belik.fi

I would have a good used 3.31 ring & pinion for the Avanti Dana ‘44’ ( non twin track) in my parts stash…. but consider me a ‘last resort’ if the vendors do not have these parts… Probably worth $150 + shipping. BTW….. ring & pinion same for twin track or standard rear axle.

Hi, Please help. I have Stude Avanti R2 4-speed Spicer Limited Slip (Twin Track) Dana 44. Ring with 10 bolts. Ratio 3.31 I have broken pinion which is 10 spline. I have asked many Jeep part seller and they cannot help me. All are wrong sizes or at least wrong high ratio. Dont find from vendors so far. Im waiting also answers from Dan Booth and Jon Mayer. Is there somebody who can sell me correct Ring and Pinion? Is it possible to use other that 10 spline Pinion with new yoke?

Has anyone got a new rear quarter window seal for the passenger side they would like to sell or trade. Some how I have 2 new drivers side but no passenger side seal. I thought I would ask first rather than buy a new pair. Happy to pay or trade a passenger side seal for my extra drivers side seal. Must be willing to post via USPS to Western Australia. Thanks Peter

No one wants to take a crack at why the Bonneville GT Hawks were two-toned?

The ‘Avanti Airlift’ cross country Avanti introduction program cost Studebaker Corp……?……. 1) $29885…..2) $46265……3) $69224…. or…..4) $81390

Studebaker Corp. spent …… ?….. to produce the 1963 Studebaker Avanti Fsctory Shop Manuals. 1) $9884…..2) $11786 …..3) $14337 or…..4) $16825

Our heroine Paula Murphy’s middle name was……?…… 1) Louise…..2) Alice……3) Patricia….. or…..4) Margaret

Well done…..FALSE is correct….Now, can anyone guess WHY those two Hawks were two-toned??

I remember hearing that the Granatellis didn’t install air filters on some of the Bonneville Studebakers… perhaps the Hawks?

Check the cigar lighter and make sure the wires are tight on the terminals and not loose and touching each other. I once had a similar problem and discovered it was caused by someone dropping a penny into the cigar lighter receptacle, causing an intermittent short circuit.

I would think that one could "massage" the right inner fender to clear the supercharger. Everything else should fit.

Did anyone put an R3 into a Hawk? Was that possible?

I feel like I'm always wrong and I wanted to say true so I'm going to FALSE.

I think we found our reason why the Avanti didn't save Studebaker: they didn't spend enough on the car show!

You got it Dwight!

LOL!

$15K !!!

When dealing with any SBC engine, it is very useful to check the number stamped on the right front of the block, just below the head. There are several sites on line that have the info to decode it. For example, my V1001CLM tells me that it was manufactured at the Flint Plant, on October 1, 1977, 350 CID, Automatic transmission, L48, 185 HP, for Corvette/Monte Carlo application.

No thoughts here?