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Thanks guys. I just wasn’t sure where to start. My car looks like an amalgamation of parts. Ignition switch (and key) look to be of Chrysler heritage. Engine/Trans is GM. Frame is Studebaker! It’s interesting!

The carb number on my 1980 350 is 17080204. It's not computer controlled, thank goodness. It should be perfect for your '81

Thanks Dwight, will try and lube up the door cylinder. Maybe it will start working.. Yes I have a friend with a mobile locksmith business..

Normally, you should have TWO keys, one for the ignition & doors, and another for the console & glove box. That's how Studebaker did it, and your car is a '70, so should be the same. Many times the ignition switch fails and is replaced. That's how a car becomes a three-key car. The door panels can be removed easily. Perhaps a locksmith can reset the door lock cylinders to match the ign key. Or, at least, he can make a key for the door locks. May have to look online these days for locksmith services. --Dwight

It's mounted in the engine compartment on the fender well in the typical place. Much easier to install there than next to condenser

Read that I should have three seperate keys , door, console and ignition. I only have the ignition key.. Wondering if the door cylinder tumblers can be reset to accept the ignition key. Had this done on my 63 Comet convertble. "I know a guy"... is door panel removal pretty straightforward..? Working on my 70 rqa0387. TIA

Sold $39750!

The radio puts out a low-level speaker signal to the amp. The amp boosts the signal to the speakers. You need the amp to get any sound.

Call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors...he probably has a NOS switch to sell.

will do. Thanks

Agreed…. Or auto graveyard!

I know that Chrysler products of the late seventies used the exact same switch… but I really can’t remember which model… I purchased one for my ‘63 Avanti at a Dodge dealership around 1990. Look at pics of Mopar units on line and see if you can match yours up.

I'm looking for a replacement turn signal switch that goes in the steering column of my 1963 Avanti. Specifically, I need one of the sliding tabs that makes an electrical connection when the turn signal lever is engaged. I understand they are no longer produced. Anyone have a lead on where I can find a new or used one? Thanks

I'm pretty sure it's a GM screw in cap. Any auto parts store should be able to supply a cap.

Pretty common problem on Avantis.

That is EXACTLY what I did on my ‘83 Avanti when I had had enough of the ‘computer command control’ system! I ordered a non computer controlled Q-Jet for a ‘78 Impala 350… and also a non computer controlled distributor for same.(distributor has vacuum dash pot) I made this conversion on my Avanti over 15 years ago… and have never looked back! And yes, a true dual exhaust system, ‘68 Avanti ll style, also went on!!

Hi All- As an aside whilst this thread is open... I have a 1981 EME Carb that I'd like to replace with an un-ECU controlled Quadrajet someday. Would somebody mind putting up what Carb Code numbers might be a good idea for substitution. BTW if I do go down this route , the AIR Injection system and Catalytic converter will also be gone too. Charcoal Canister will be staying , however. Thanks...

The "amp" is out, as is the radio. I don't think that the "amp" has anything to do with the radio but sits on it as a place to rest. I have checked continuity from a couple of the speaker connections with the connector to that "amp" and find none. Does anyone know what that little PCB is used for? I assume that after fixing or replacing the radio I will have to reattach it.

That carburetor looks WAY too good to even put on an engine!!! BEAUTIFUL!!

I have rebuilt quadrojet carburetors in the past (I'm too old now), and I sent one to Recarbco in Pittsburgh CA that came back looking like it just left the factory (and performed like it too). Recarbco is on Facebook (I am not). Not cheap, but excellent work/result.

Thanks ronmanfredi and MFG. I hope to get the carb number and order the kit later this week, then I can deal with this. I really appreciate the insight!

RQB3263/81/305 .... very interesting ...two more easy things to try ... (1) add 1 or 2 more carburetor base gaskets to act as insulators... (2) check ignition timing at idle should be about 6 or 7 degrees advanced .... check for vacuum leaks ....and yes remove and block off intake manifold head riser, this may require removal of intake manifold or there may be a block off kit available for your application.... i also drill 6 3/16holes thru my thermostat to allow coolant to pass at all times. good luck and keep in touch .....BILL in Florida where we dont need heat risers !!

J B Weld offers a higher intensity (stronger?) version that does a pretty good job.. but still iffy! Some techs have drilled out the plugs, tapped the holes, and then screwed in small brass plugs… I’ve never done this, so I really can’t offer insight on the level of difficulty.

That’s very unfortunate…. But thanks for posting this info.

I have a 64 Avanti, when these air ducts were first introduced. As someone informed me when I inquired on the forum, they provide little cooling to the transmission shifter in reality. I've driven mine around with new hoses and the air that exits the hose is just a wisp at best. As far as hose replacement, I found that the hose used for water supply to your washing machine was a perfect fit, it's plastic so won't deteriorate like the originals, they're plenty long enough and will need to be cut to length, they have the same ID and they're inexpensive. There are some foam gaskets that the hoses go through, 2138-71 that also deteriorate over time. I found some foam with a tacky backing on amazon that I cut out to replace them, again a synthetic that may last longer. However, all said and done, as I mentioned, at 65 mph, very little air blows through. I'm toying with the idea of making a small scoop for the air vent cowling in front of the window. Something simple out of sheet metal about 3/4" high, maybe it'll catch enough air flow to make these functional.