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I paid up for a used replacement from a well known vendor and got one that doesn't have chrome as nice as this one does. This bumper is for the guy looking for an inexpensive one for a nice driver- it has an area by the passenger side bracket that has a ripple. If you have hammer and dolly skills you can probably make it near perfect, except for the tiny rub on the chrome seen in the photo. Glad to take more photos of certain areas as requested. $175 plus actual shipping, which won't be too bad, they are very light.

So can I assume that since there are screw on connectors that it was never converted and the R134A note on the invoice was an error? Are there any economical replacement refrigerants for R12? Don't want to invest too much, not knowing if the existing system will even function. Might make more sense to install a modern compressor, etc.

1-2) It could have been installed back at the factory after purchase, a recommended repair shop that they used at the time or a repair shop that did it for the owner. 3 & 5) Your concept is correct. Replace the dryer, replace the service valve "stems" on the 2 hose fittings, vacuum it down for 30+ minutes and then recharge. The service valves will require snap-on connectors if the system has been converted to R134A 4) There isn't one from the factory. 5) Leak check the system once recharged

1) Today I got the production order for my 63 R1 (4223) and air conditioning was missing from the option list. I assume this means it was dealer installed later? 2) Found an embossed aluminum tag in the glovebox that was at some point installed under the hood (I assume) with "Studebaker Air Conditioning" and info about the system. Where would it have been installed? 3) When I was a teenager in the 70's, if I got a car that with air that wasn't working or out of freon, I would simply pump down the system with a vacuum pump (maybe replacing the receiver/drier), recharge the system and usually that got it working. Any reason that won't work today, assuming I can find refrigerant? 4) Does the Avanti AC system have a pressure switch to keep the compressor from running if there is no freon? 5) How can I tell if the system has been converted over to R134A? (a service invoice from 2005 says that they added R134A to the system at that time)

All brake parts except for shoes are new, and the shoes look recently replaced. I tried slamming on the brakes in a parking lot and looked at the tire stipes. The left rear was nowhere near as strong, barely there. So I'll try re adjusting it.

Great article. Please keep them coming. I agree that raising the rotary knob controls makes for a much better layout.

Thank you I’ll do that

You may also want to consider buying the Shop Manual. Although you don't have a '63 - '64 a lot of the mechanisms remained the same!

Anthony: I am still waiting to hear back from you.

My Avanti II 1981 model had the Kelsey-Hayes Proportioning valve on it and orignal Bendix Calipers when I broke the car down for frame off resto. Because the K-H unit is a bit of a rarity and hard to replace parts for, I decided to go with a brass GM PV2 proportioning valve . This valve is specifically for Disk & Drum combination and is a bolt-up replacement for the K-H valve. From what I have researched, a proportioning/combination valve is there for the purpose of allowing the rear brake drums to apply just ahead of the front Discs- that's all. This is to prevent the front brakes propping, and causing the rear end to 'come around'. For this reason, I wouldn't fob off the idea of using a combination/ proportioning valve. I wonder whether you might have a an issue with the right rear brake applying with more gusto- causing a right hand veer. May I suggest checking the orientation of the Shoes, adjustment of the shoes, the condition of the rear Flexible brake line (they are often blocked- like mine were), the condition of the brake lines along the rear Axle (I found mine crushed !) and condition of the rear brake cylinders. After that, maybe look at utilising a propvalve?

I have a metric gauge that I'm going to fit in my Avanti. I'm assuming that I put in the appropriate speedo gear to suit the diff ratio and it should work accurately or am I missing something ? Peter

The "window stop" for its maximum height is adjustable. Remove the door panel; towards the rear of the door (latch side) and close to the top, there is a bolt that holds the adjustable stop in place. Lower the window and look down into the cavity from the top of the door and you will see the "stop". It's just a flat piece of metal attached to a bracket that you move up and down. Loosen the bolt, lower the stop a little. tighten, raise the window and check the new maximum window height. Once you have it where you want it then tighten the bolt and install the door panel.

Oops only should read On My …. Sorry

Only 1983 AVANTI when I raise the power window all the way up it hits the vent window chrome and pushes it up off the glass a little bit How can I properly correct this ? All advice appreciated thank you A83

Finally new sending unit was installed by mechanic and seems to be working fine . Thanks everyone for all your help and advice. Regards Kevin

That CHMSL looks like the ones used on the roll hoop of C4 Corvettes (1986-1991, plus all ZR-1). There are 'vette owners whom have swapped those halogen bulbs for cheaper and modern LED solutions. Search the Internet for C4 ZR-1 CHMSL LED and that should get all the necessary information to make the conversion.

Anthony: Please check your messages. Dyke Ridgley

Anthony: Thank you for your comments. My efforts have been to update the existing R3/R4 engine lists. I worked with Nelson Bove and George Krem. They were most generous with their time and knowledge. However, so much more is to be learned and it seems you are another excellent source. I would appreciate your contacting me directly and I will be happy to share my work if you are willing to provide updates, comments and corrections. I will message you my email contact info. Dyke Ridgley

In disassembled condition, the value of it will only be what someone is willing to pay for it. I've seen them go for $2500+ depending on the condition of the partial restoration and how much of the car needs to be reassembled. It might be best to list it on Bring a Trailer along with a LOT of photos and see what an auction will bring. The more photos, the more receipts for work done that you have, the better your chances are.

It couldnt hurt to rebleed the brake system, or for that matter pull drums and be sure you dont have a leaking brake cylinder getting the shoes wet

The Avanti factory installed a proportioning valve on their 1983 models… However, (I think) they used it because the rear drum brakes on the ‘83’s, although the same size as the rear brakes on Studebaker Avantis, were self-energizing and had more stopping power.

He made the recommendation based on experience with his own cars, which never seemed to need a valve. Mine distinctly feels like the rear trying to come around, rather than the right front grabbing. Maybe I need to re adjust the rear brakes. I bought the dual master along with the kit

I also cant get radio out of my 89. I've used the removal tools, allows me to move out about 4" and then binds up an stops. Its a Sony and on top has Avanti stickers, so I'm guessing original? Will it help to remove carpeted portion that covers Heater stuff to get into back to see what its held up on? The link to SDC site was of no help. Have a new one ready to slid in if I can get old out.

Also I think that it would be important to note that the other car in the video is not the car that becomes know as #8. The car that is running in the video, does not have a roll bar in it. It would not have been permitted to run 'at speed' without one. The video was mainly for PR. Think about it... random times where Andy lets off of the throttle, a truck with a camera man keeping up with a record setting car, and if you are doing it for the PR then use a car with emblems on it.

You mentioned Jim didn't recommend adding a proportioning valve. Is that because you already have the dual circuit master cylinder? When you say the car veers right does that mean the front of the car goes right or is the right rear trying to come around on you? I did the Turner kit up front, dual master upgrade and all new rear drum brake components. Car stops great, straight as an arrow.