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Coffee and cars Chico ,Ca is awesome, always plenty of classics and a mixture of modern hotrods .

I’d definitely say your 305 CI Chevy would be slower than an R3 Avanti or an Avanti equipped with a 400 CI…with either a two barrel carb or four barrel,

My 70 RQA came with Koni shocks all around. You could adjust them from a solid strut to a cushy mattress like sensation. The 70 chassis was the same as the Studebaker Avanti, so you can use anything they installed... Look to Studebaker International

The early Avanti II's got a lot of their parts out of the original Studebaker parts bins. Does my 1969 use 1964 front shock absorbers or was something different used because of the Chevy 350 engine? Can anyone recommend a vendor for the correct shocks?

Now I’m just assuming a R3 from the factory would be the fastest Avanti. Maybe a 300 hp 327 would be right there. What would be the slowest? 400 2 barrel or my 305? Hard to get real comparable horsepower numbers. Mike

The president of the local SDC has a 57 Silver Hawk with a flathead. Surprised to see that when he opened the hood.

Hmmmm!…I don’t know… the only time I’ve heard of a problem like that is at the 1971 Indianapolis 500… when the pace car, a Dodge Challenger, was driven into the pit lane too fast, failed to get stopped, and plowed into the press viewing stand injuring a few people when the stand came crashing down on top of the car.

I don't know about how the Cars & Coffee shows are run where you live, but around the DC area, most shows have no limits of what can be shown. As a result, many (most?) of the cars that show up are either modern expensive toys or modern daily drivers. I have no particular desire to go to a show just to see a 2025 BMW.

Nope…. Perhaps I should have used the term ‘major difference’?….. but anyway, the answer was the radiator changes.

To show off the Avanti, Studebaker invited members of the motorsports press to the Bonneville Salt Flats to watch the speed runs. The intent was to get articles in major newspapers and popular automotive magazines. A viewing stand was set up for the press to observe the speed runs. The trivia question for the holiday weekend is..... Who was the Avanti driver at Bonneville who had difficulty coming to a stop after finishing a high speed run and almost plowed an Avanti through the Motorsports press viewing stand?

The Avanti radiator is set at an angle where the Hawk and Lark radiators are mounted vertical.

I have two sets of 1970 Avanti II doors, both with power windows. Both have a nice, substantial extra layer of fiberglass glued onto the interior side of the inner door panel. This was added to prevent fiberglass cracking. I am fairly sure that Studebaker hadn't gotten around to making that needed repair by the time Studebaker Avanti production but don't know when Avanti Motors made that change. As I said Avanti IIs had that improvement by 1970. --Dwight

By "biggest" are you referencing the volumes of the cooling systems?

What I mean is the short channel (or guide) located just ahead of the rear vertical guide channel…. This short channel is retained by two bolts, and if you loosen the forward one you can move that channel up or down to change the position (angle) of the side window in relation to the door itself.

That is a difference, however, we were looking for the BIGGEST difference!

let's not forget the expansion tank.

If it were my car: Step 1, roll the window down and adjust the door where it is level with the body and it closes and latches correctly. Step 2, loosen the vent assembly bolts and adjuster nuts and raise the vent assembly as high as possible, then adjust the top part of it where it is even with the body rubber seal at the roof so that the top of the vent is level with the seal. Step 3, raise the window all the way up and be sure the window height stop is set to where the window stops going up as soon as it touches the top of the vent window frame. You don't want the window pushing the vent assembly upwards. Step 4, with the window all the way up, adjust the vent assembly using the adjuster screws to obtain the right amount of tilt so the vent assembly and window touch the upper seal. You don't want it to put a lot of pressure on the seal, but you don't want an air gap either. You may need to loosen the vent assembly bolts just a little to make the adjuster work easier. Step 5, with the window all the way up, check that the glass is touching the seal towards the rear of the car just like the front. If not, then adjust the rear glass guide to make the correction.

I'm not sure which part you are referring to as the "rear most regulator arm guide"

Horizontal flow vs vertical flow…the Avanti had side tanks and other Studes had top and bottom mounted tanks.

Also… Good to have that transmission problem behind you! Considering parts & labor, I think what you paid is a very fair price.

Window… Thr upper window stop would have a major effect on the height issue.. and the rearmost regulator arm guide gives you quite a lot of ‘window angle’ adjustment once you loosen the two retaining bolts.

Hooray for me! My transmission is back from the shop and no longer leaks!. It needed a torque converter replacement, reseal of the front pump because the last seal turned out because of a burr on the case that I overlooked when I installed it previously. Also, the O-ring on the vacuum modulator was too small and fluid was leaking out of there. Total cost for removal, parts and replacement $1500 well worth it to rid me of this headache.

With power steering, the effort required at low speeds will likely be more than what you may be used to on a modern car, It will not be "0ne-finger" steering. The force required at low speeds will be affected by many factors, including: front tire pressure and size, condition and lubrication on the king-pins and steering box, adjustment and condition of the power steering components, and whether the later "quick steering" arms have been installed. Of course, if there's a doubt as to if the power steering is working at all, the easiest way to check is to compare steering effort when parked with the engine running vs without the engine running.

I can’t seem to get my window to go back far enough to seat on the pillar seal and up to the top seal. I have loosened every adjustment I can find, but it won’t move back. What could I me missing

I’ve experienced Studebaker Avantis and early Avanti ll’s (all with p/s) having less steering effort than the later Avanti ll’s (through ‘85) All power steering components are the same between these cars EXCEPT the steering box itself, which was changed out when the supply of Ross boxes ran out. Some say the replacement steering box was originally made for a fork lift … I do not know if that’s true or not. But a change in ratio between the two units could have an effect on steering effort. I can say steering effort in my ‘63 Avanti is definitely less than in my ‘83 Avanti. PS…. It occurred to me that a change was also made in the power steering pump itself, going from the Eaton style to the GM style… If there was less pressure produced by the GM pump, I suppose that could account for additional steering effort.