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I believe Studebaker felt the cooling kit wasn’t needed in A/C equipped Avantis for two reasons….. First, with the A/C in operation, the interior would naturally be cooler than in a non A/C Avanti…. and second, clearance issues between the twin cooling hoses and the console A/C evaporator…. (Although the Altman crew apparently figured that one out!!)

Yes…another ‘Altman Avanti’ ! ( You’ll notice on the Stude Avanti parts manual illustration above a non A/C console is used for reference)

Well, I have aicon and this cooling kit on my '69 Avanti too.

The Studebaker Avanti twin hose console cooling kit was installed on non-air-conditioned Avantis with automatic or manual transmissions…..The main reason it was installed was to keep the shift lever at a tolerable temperature.

Yes… my point was Studebaker (as far as I know) did not install the console cooling kit on their late Avantis with A/C…. So I was a little surprised to hear that the Altman’s installed that twin hose console cooling setup on Avanti ll’s…. most all of which, like yours, were built with A/C!

Looking for a R3 intake manifold?

A project indeed...

It has nothing to do with airconditioning but all with cooling of the autotrans. The hoses on my '69 Avanti II were gone too. Here's a pic, one hose is visible.

Best I can remember, I used ‘82 Chev Monte Carlo engine mounts in my ‘83 Avanti 305.

Interesting!…. You have an Avanti ll equipped with air conditioning …..On the earlier Studebaker Avantis, I don’t believe that console cooling system was used on the late ‘square light’ Avantis equipped with factory air conditioning…. Apparently they changed that policy on Avanti ll’s.

It draws in outside air from the cowl of the car. If you look outside at the base of the windshield through the intake grating you'll see two intakes under the square covers.

Hi Klaus- I'm making a few assumptions here but having replaced the mountings for my 1981 305V8 recently, I'd wonder whether they might be the same because these engines are small block Chev. I used the same ones recommended for Corvettes 1969 to 82. I have engine mount 'pedestals' on my Front Crossmember as in the photo. If yours are the same, I'd look at the corvette mounts. By all means let me know if I'm wrong !

Last fall I purchased a 1967 Avanti II. I had to replace the air intake heater core control cable (bowden cable). In the process of routing the cable above the AC evaporator, I noticed that the "Hose trans cooler" on the passenger side had corroded and deteriorated to the point that it really was totally gone (just pieces). I looked at the parts catalog, and found the attached graphic (shown as 2138-65) . It really does not indicate where it connects at the top of the dash. Before I dig deeper into the dash and console, I have several questions. Where does it get the 'fresh air' from? Are there any better pictures or drawings showing the connections? I know it says it is a trans cooler hose, but is it just a convective air flow cooling system? What are the consequences/risks of not replacing the hoses (left and right)? If anyone has replaced these, any advice on the process would be appreciated. By the way, it has a GM 3 speed automatic transmission.

I've done the first of those steps. I can see the amp on top...a simple PCB somehow affixed to the top. I have not yet figured out how it is attached. I think I have found the source of my problems. There appears to be an L shaped bracket at the back..bolted to a base plate and the vertical portion has a bolt from the radio going through it and has a white wire held down by a (loose) nut on that bolt. Taking the nut and wire off does not appear that it will loosen the bracket so that the radio can be removed, but I will give it a try after I have photographed as much as I can in case I do a reassembly of the original radio connections. I have found an operating manual and schematic of the electrical for that particular radio and downloaded them....and looking at it just now, I see it has a "quick bolt" on the back for connection to a supporting strap. This may be all that I need to finish the removal

Do 89's have a remote power door lock?

There is a devise called a Wheel Fitment and Simulator tool. It allows a tire shop to mount this in a tire of any size apply to your car and determine back spacing and off set. Your local tire shop should have one.

THANKS TANDA ..... LOOKS GREAT...

Hogtrough, Where did you mount your drier? Do you have a picture? Thanks, Tom

Here is the radiator I am using in my 63. It fit right in except for having to enlarge a couple of the mounting holes to get them to line up. A rat tail file and a few minutes work did the job. I am using a 16inch Spal fan with a mount from Vivid Racing. https://avantiparts.biz/radiator-aluminum-63-to-85-avanti/

On my 82 model, I removed the coin/cup holder on top, the knob nuts and pulled the radio out through the top. There was a Blaupunkt amp on top of the radio that had to be removed first. I believe the radio has to be turned to where the side of it comes out first.

Another question regarding an 89, does anyone know where the fog lights were sourced or what make they are?

I like the sound of this!

WELL I GUESS its time to replace my original 1981 radiator....i think ive gotten my moneys worth after 44yrs.... so im looking for an aluminum 4 tube core, direct bolt in replacement ....if it exists .... i am currently running a DUREAL duel 12" electric fan system that mated easily to the 1981 radiator some guidance please...... what to buy and where to buy it ...... thanks ..... BILL 386-466-6434 in Florida

I have an 89 Avanti and am trying to put 18 inch wheels on the rear. Struggling to find the right offset so the tire does not protrude past the fender well. If anyone has done this with an 89 I would like to hear from you.

I’ve mentioned this before years ago using type F trans fluid.I noticed the dipstick would get very hot, especially on long trips. It was so hot that I needed a rag to insulated my fingers from the dipstick when pulling it out to check the level. I also went through drive sets too often. I changed over to Mobil 1 synthetic trans fluid. I found that I could now check the oil without using a rag but just my bare hands. I would think this tells me the fluid is not being sheared at the bearing interface which would produce the heat. My bearing problem is gone. Maybe the B&M Trickshift does the same thing? Did you notice a reduction in blower temperature on trips or even around town?