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silverstude

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Everything posted by silverstude

  1. See my response on the other thread
  2. Bellcrank kits have nothing to do with toe-in. Centering the steering wheel is the last thing to do after a front end alignment. You set the caster, then camber and then toe-in ( which can sacrifice some of the camber) Once the toe-in is correct, you turn both tie rod clamps in opposite directions equally, to move the wheel either right or left. If they got to the toe-in part, that means the other two settings were close. If while they were setting the toe-in, they noticed the clamp was getting to the end, it would not be difficult, at that point, to rearrange the clamps to accommodate more adjustment. It could be they were spending more time than they thought necessary on the car and realized their problem too late, deciding to squeeze you for more $$$. Outer pins do not have much to do with toe-in. If you replaced the rubber bushings, they alone should have pulled things back to a very tolerable point. Installing new tie rods should make the job very easy. If they obtained the parts and they don't work, it's on them to correct that issue. My thoughts are that they are trying to draw you into spending a bit more $$$. (Actually, I can't remember exactly, but some Stude steering wheels can be lifted off the shaft threads and recentered inside the car, but that may introduce a turning circle issue) If the car is driveable, I'd pay them, get out of there and contact your nearest AOAI Chapter to find out where to get it looked at .
  3. here are a few notes http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p1g.html#Moser
  4. Parts.... Nostalgic Motorcars, Wixom, MI Jon Myers, Duncan Falls, OH Bob Ziff, Morrisville, PA More.... http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjvs.html
  5. Here's a page on the torque boxes http://hogtrough.blogspot.com
  6. There are a few possibilities here http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p1g.html#DBRAKES
  7. It would be prudent to change your oil, before the seals get too soft...
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