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Body to frame pads


mtgibby
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Getting close to mounting the body back on the frame.

DSC02627_zps8v3cly1n.jpg

The body should be back from the paint shop this month, so I need help sorting everything I need to do before the two are joined together.

I have plenty of the rectangular rubber pads for the places where the body is bolted down. I have heard that there are other pads used as well, some that are taped to the X-cross members. Does anyone have a picture of these pads or know where I can get some?

Any other tips before the two halves are bolted together forever?

Thanks!

Mike

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When I pulled the body off mine I was told to mark the shims because if they weren't correctly returned the doors would be mis-aligned or it could suffer fiberglass cracking. I did but couldn't see any difference in them.

Rob

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anybody have experience De-shimming an Avanti II? About to put the body back on the chassis of my 71 and plan on restoring the Studebaker stance. i was going to start with one at each mount point and adjust as necessary.

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Anybody have experience De-shimming an Avanti II? About to put the body back on the chassis of my 71 and plan on restoring the Studebaker stance. i was going to start with one at each mount point and adjust as necessary.

Interesting experiment. I'll be interested in what happens. If it has issues, I'd talk to Eaton spring or other manufacture to see what they recommend in an 1 - 1 1/2" lower coil spring that would still give a decent ride. Someone here or on the SDC forum may have done this and saved the inquiry.

As a last resort, you could cut a turn or so off the coil springs but I'm not a fan of this method.

Edited by Avanti83
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No plans on changing the springs or suspension. Removal of the shims and re-radius of the front wheel arches should be the bulk of the change needed. Newman/Altman raised the body, added a shim under the springs, and added a filler to get the new stance, I just plan on reversing their changes.

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No plans on changing the springs or suspension. Removal of the shims and re-radius of the front wheel arches should be the bulk of the change needed. Newman/Altman raised the body, added a shim under the springs, and added a filler to get the new stance, I just plan on reversing their changes.

Keep us posted on your efforts. I've always liked the original rake. I pulled the shims from mine but just not enough change. Remember that there about 200# less in the front with the SBC.

IAC, I wish you success as I'm interested in what it took to accomplish.

Bob

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No plans on changing the springs or suspension. Removal of the shims and re-radius of the front wheel arches should be the bulk of the change needed. Newman/Altman raised the body, added a shim under the springs, and added a filler to get the new stance, I just plan on reversing their changes.

If your frame is the same as this 1985 frame, you will need to shorten the front mounts and the cowl mounts. The cowl mount is 1 inch higher than a Studebaker Avanti.

009-1.jpg

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Getting close to mounting the body back on the frame.

DSC02627_zps8v3cly1n.jpg

The body should be back from the paint shop this month, so I need help sorting everything I need to do before the two are joined together.

I have plenty of the rectangular rubber pads for the places where the body is bolted down. I have heard that there are other pads used as well, some that are taped to the X-cross members. Does anyone have a picture of these pads or know where I can get some?

Any other tips before the two halves are bolted together forever?

Thanks!

Mike

If you haven't dropped your body yet can you post a pic of the front and cowl mounts mentioned by Reginalbob in his post today?

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The main idea behind using the rubberized spacers was to fit the body to the frame, in other words you don't want to go direct fiberglass to frame think cushioning effect. The idea behind raising the body in front came about with the use of the Gm engine, it is narrower, taller than the Studebaker. The filler panels in the front fenders came about as the Gm engine is a couple hundred pounds lighter which also made the front end sit higher read larger gap between top of tires and wheel well cutouts. Lou Cote

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So, back to the subject at hand, does anyone know what type of pads were taped to the X beams at the factory?

When the rubber meets the road, so to speak. Why not just call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Mi. If anyone knows the answer and can supply the parts , it will be Dan.

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I noticed that they (the factory) also added filler pieces to the header panel where the front bumper brackets pass thru. These would have to be cut out to lower the body on the frame. At least that's how my '69 built car is.

Mike S

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I noticed that they (the factory) also added filler pieces to the header panel where the front bumper brackets pass thru. These would have to be cut out to lower the body on the frame. At least that's how my '69 built car is.

Mike S

I'll be looking for this as I get there. Thanks for the heads-up

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