mtgibby Posted July 8, 2016 Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 Getting close to mounting the body back on the frame. The body should be back from the paint shop this month, so I need help sorting everything I need to do before the two are joined together. I have plenty of the rectangular rubber pads for the places where the body is bolted down. I have heard that there are other pads used as well, some that are taped to the X-cross members. Does anyone have a picture of these pads or know where I can get some? Any other tips before the two halves are bolted together forever? Thanks! Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Dudley Posted July 10, 2016 Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 When I pulled the body off mine I was told to mark the shims because if they weren't correctly returned the doors would be mis-aligned or it could suffer fiberglass cracking. I did but couldn't see any difference in them. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 Anybody have experience De-shimming an Avanti II? About to put the body back on the chassis of my 71 and plan on restoring the Studebaker stance. i was going to start with one at each mount point and adjust as necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Kile Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 To do this correctly would require removing the "pie" shaped additions to the front fenders. Charlie RQB3921 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 (edited) Anybody have experience De-shimming an Avanti II? About to put the body back on the chassis of my 71 and plan on restoring the Studebaker stance. i was going to start with one at each mount point and adjust as necessary. Interesting experiment. I'll be interested in what happens. If it has issues, I'd talk to Eaton spring or other manufacture to see what they recommend in an 1 - 1 1/2" lower coil spring that would still give a decent ride. Someone here or on the SDC forum may have done this and saved the inquiry. As a last resort, you could cut a turn or so off the coil springs but I'm not a fan of this method. Edited July 19, 2016 by Avanti83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted July 19, 2016 Report Share Posted July 19, 2016 No plans on changing the springs or suspension. Removal of the shims and re-radius of the front wheel arches should be the bulk of the change needed. Newman/Altman raised the body, added a shim under the springs, and added a filler to get the new stance, I just plan on reversing their changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 No plans on changing the springs or suspension. Removal of the shims and re-radius of the front wheel arches should be the bulk of the change needed. Newman/Altman raised the body, added a shim under the springs, and added a filler to get the new stance, I just plan on reversing their changes. Keep us posted on your efforts. I've always liked the original rake. I pulled the shims from mine but just not enough change. Remember that there about 200# less in the front with the SBC. IAC, I wish you success as I'm interested in what it took to accomplish. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regnalbob Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 No plans on changing the springs or suspension. Removal of the shims and re-radius of the front wheel arches should be the bulk of the change needed. Newman/Altman raised the body, added a shim under the springs, and added a filler to get the new stance, I just plan on reversing their changes. If your frame is the same as this 1985 frame, you will need to shorten the front mounts and the cowl mounts. The cowl mount is 1 inch higher than a Studebaker Avanti. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Thanks for the heads-up. I'll compare with my 63 prior to body drop. I already noticed that a support under the battery was too tall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Getting close to mounting the body back on the frame. The body should be back from the paint shop this month, so I need help sorting everything I need to do before the two are joined together. I have plenty of the rectangular rubber pads for the places where the body is bolted down. I have heard that there are other pads used as well, some that are taped to the X-cross members. Does anyone have a picture of these pads or know where I can get some? Any other tips before the two halves are bolted together forever? Thanks! Mike If you haven't dropped your body yet can you post a pic of the front and cowl mounts mentioned by Reginalbob in his post today? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regnalbob Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtgibby Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 So, back to the subject at hand, does anyone know what type of pads were taped to the X beams at the factory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Thanks for the pictures. Frame looks identical to the 71. Sorry, no info on the 63 pads, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynolou2 Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 The main idea behind using the rubberized spacers was to fit the body to the frame, in other words you don't want to go direct fiberglass to frame think cushioning effect. The idea behind raising the body in front came about with the use of the Gm engine, it is narrower, taller than the Studebaker. The filler panels in the front fenders came about as the Gm engine is a couple hundred pounds lighter which also made the front end sit higher read larger gap between top of tires and wheel well cutouts. Lou Cote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 So, back to the subject at hand, does anyone know what type of pads were taped to the X beams at the factory? When the rubber meets the road, so to speak. Why not just call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors in Wixom, Mi. If anyone knows the answer and can supply the parts , it will be Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Sal Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I noticed that they (the factory) also added filler pieces to the header panel where the front bumper brackets pass thru. These would have to be cut out to lower the body on the frame. At least that's how my '69 built car is. Mike S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I noticed that they (the factory) also added filler pieces to the header panel where the front bumper brackets pass thru. These would have to be cut out to lower the body on the frame. At least that's how my '69 built car is. Mike S I'll be looking for this as I get there. Thanks for the heads-up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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