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Replacement tie rods


64studeavanti

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Replacing tie rods on 64 Avanti. It uses the shorter outer rod and the longer inner rod like Avanti II and later. In any case, the outer tie rod is slightly long at 19 1/2" instead of 19 1/8". Additionally, the taper that fits into the arm sits high enough that the cotter pin does not engage the castle nut. I took care of the cotter pin issue by using 1/2" washer as shim.  After assembling and greasing, the steering is very hard and stiff with both wheels off the ground. I suppose this could be normal and I was just used to the looseness of the worn out tierods.

 

Any ideas?

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No, I am just turning the wheels by hand. Previously, that action was effortless. Now I really have to put some muscle in it. I tried each kingpin, and center bellcrank. Those 3 turn effortlessly. When I attach the replacement tierods, it takes a lot more effort.

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If nothing is rubbing which i do not see, how does it feel with the car running using the power steering?

I recently did something similar and at first, the steering seemed too tight but it loosened up fairly quickly after a little driving. I was having to pull the steering wheel back to center after a turn

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Right now, I am working on chassis only. The body is off the car for hog troughs. I thought since the body was off, I would clean up the frame. Since i have a clean frame, I thought I would replace/refurbish all the other parts. One thing led to another ...

 

Today, I went back to stock disk brakes for authenticity sake. I removed the stock system about 20 years ago. Had a devil of a time finding all the original parts and remembering how they fit together, even with the help of the chassis and shop manuals. Additionally, the new crossover pipes did not fit correctly and I had to rebend without destroying them. Always seems to be something.

Edited by 64studeavanti
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18 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:

FWIW, here are some photos. Note the gold colored washers on top of the knuckle arms to bring the castle nut high enough to secure with cotter pin.

Hi. Something is wrong. I will look more and closer. Check my photo on the drivers side of the same area. See the position of the joint. The steering wheel turned all to the right. After assembly and without tires, you should be able to turn the steering wheel with your little finger and without any play.

1. If you have outer 19 7/8 then inner 3 7/64

2. If you have outer 19 1/8 then inner 3 7/8

Total same lenght in both version. Part Catalogue shows version 2. Is after serial 4904.

I think your combo is not correct.

IMG_3097.jpg

Edited by Leo B
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I have correct combo. Shorter outer rod and longer inner rod. The replacement outer rods are a bit long at 19 1/2". Should be 19 1/8". The 19 1/2" rod is what the vendors are selling. The inner rods are 3 7/8. I set the installed length of both rods at about 24" same as the old rods.  Wheel alignment will get it closer.

Edited by 64studeavanti
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7 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:

I have correct combo. Shorter outer rod and longer inner rod. The replacement outer rods are a bit long at 19 1/2". Should be 19 1/8". The 19 1/2" rod is what the vendors are selling. The inner rods are 3 7/8. I set the installed length of both rods at about 24" same as the old rods.  Wheel alignment will get it closer.

Ok. 610 mm 24” should be correct. Then in your photo, right rod is not assembled and without the stopper (in king pin) and the wheel turns more than should like in your photo. I just noticed... in my photo the dust shield is in the wrong side.😒

Edited by Leo B
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Hi 64Studeavanti, Maybe I need better glasses (for eyes and bigger for beer). But check the king pins. Are they properly assembled? The boss on the pin should be to front. Dont see 100% from the photo, but I ask for certainty. Look like wrong to me but youll see better.

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