ron@crall.com Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 Does anyone know what issues may be presented if the shims that changer the body stance on the chassis for Avanti II's from the 63-64's are removed? I will have to re-radius the front fenders but prefer the original look. The engine is not currently in the car so I cannot check engine - hood clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted June 22, 2015 Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) As you are well aware, the body is a single piece (essentially) and would need to come down as a single unit. The front fender and front body mount shims on my 74 would let it be dropped about 1 3/4 - 2" if the shims were removed and the metal "U" mounts were removed or shortened. The front hog trough (outboard) mounts present the first challenge. There's less than 3/4" of shimming so they would need to be pie-cut to lower them. The inner mounts seem to have about 1" of shimming so you could go that far. If I were to try what you are attempting, I'd be sure all the body mount bolts were lose so they could be removed and then support the front of the body with my engine hoist, pull all the body bolts except the rear center bolt. I'd pull the front body mount bolts first and use a piece of all-thread in the holes to keep the body centered on the frame and then pull the remaining bolts. Start slowly dropping the body to see how far it will drop. Look at interference points and see what you have. Then adjust as necessary by massaging high points until it sets as you would like, if possible. You'll need to raise and lower it several times so I'd use jackstands to support the body in the raised positon and use the engine hoist for re-positioning. As each car is somewhat different. you'll need to see how far you can go. My 83 has a 355 SBC, checking hood clearance is not that difficult if you need that data. Personally, if you want the front lower, do that first and then we can solve the other issues. I don't think wheel clearance would be a problem unless you cut coils to further lower the car but that also can be handled. Bob Edited June 22, 2015 by Avanti83 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted June 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Thanks Bob. The engine-hood clearance would be good to know. The 71 i purchased was in mid-restoration. It had been soda blasted and the body and frame separated. The frame and hog troughts were in good condition but the car had been off-road and not stored in a protected state since 1995. The NY state inspection tag for 1995 shows the mileage at that time as 17,164 and the odomoter currently reads 17,730 Mi. Too bad it wasn't stored properly, the only likely benefit of the low miles might be that the Synchro's are not worn out. The restoration was abandoned and I picked up the pieces a few weeks ago and trailered them from Long Island to Maine. After unloading the car and all of the parts within there were many spacers. I crawled under the car to discover that not only had all of the shims been removed, so had all of the mounting bolts. I towed it ome with a secured frame with a loose body sitting on top. Al lthat I have noticed so far is that near the radiator/battery area a mount punched up through the fiberglass, and as i recall there is a little damage on the passenger side in the same area. Are those the Metal U mounts that you mentioned? My understanding is that there was no extra shims in the rear of the car tapering to a couple of inches at the front so perhaps the hog troughs being mid-way are ok with 1/2 the shims as the front and will be ok if all removed (actually I believe every point originally had 1 shim) I have a 63 to compare to and was going to duplicate it. It has the HD springs and R3 suspension and appears to be at near original ride height. That is the stance that I hope to acheive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 I get why you're going for the '63 stance'......A very 'mean' look I think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avanti83 Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 Ron It sounds like you've got the situation under control. I'll post the under hood measurements when I set the 74 hood back on. With what you want to do, before I'd section the front fenders, I'd mount the engine and tranny and measure what you actually have. There are a lot of manifold and carb/injection options to increase clearance if necessary or possibly just an air cleaner change. The metal "U" shaped piece was welded to the bumper extension on the 74 to take up some height instead of a large stack of shims on the mounts near the radiator. To me, the worst looking thing on the newer Avanti's is the front side clearance lights. They are gone on mine but I don't recall if the 71 had them. Good luck, and post a few shots as you progress. I'm looking forward to the changes. If you need a picture or measurement, just ask. Avanti, Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildfelr Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 RQB3263....My 81 Avanti II with a 305 eng..already makes an impression of the stock air cleaner into the new hood blanket...Lowering the body would not allow the hood to close....Shorter aircleaner assy or hood scoop ...???... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunslinger Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 You can get drop-down air cleaners that should take care of that problem. Look at Summit Racing or Jegs websites and there should be lots of different design air cleaners that will work. Some might be somewhat bizarre looking but can take care of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildfelr Posted June 23, 2015 Report Share Posted June 23, 2015 RQB3263...BILL....Hog troughs smoog troughs.....If I had the body up or off of a hog trough Avanti I would eliminate them completely...This could probably be done for under $500 in materials and labor (one weekend of fabrication).....by remove the HT from the body and fab 2"x3" x1/8"wall rec. steel tube to be welded directly to the Stud frame....kinda like "outriggers".....there will be a couple of intermediate supports...design them to be about 4" inside ans parallel to the rocker panels with bolt tabs welded to them...clamp them up so they are the same height as the frame rail and get a pro to weld them...with the body off it would be easy...with the body raised up 5 or 6 inch a little more of a problem....lotsa measurements and sketches will need to be made before the body comes off...if you have another car to refer too thats another story.....The 4" space between the outside of the new support rail and the rocker panel could be used for an exhaust pipe....uuuuumm...aaaaahh whats another weekend work....now lets think about this....RQB3263 BILL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron@crall.com Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 If the hog troughs are not as advertised when I lift the body that may be a thought. This car is for fun, the 63 is another story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now