Engine compartment details

[28meter]

I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

1. What is the correct engine color?

2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from Jim

[Gunslinger]

I can only answer a couple of your questions...

engine color...black;

p/s pump reservoir...on the '63 R1 I owned way back when...black...but the paint regularly came off when fluid spilled on it;

harness clips and such...look at Eastwood's website...they have plenty of products to clean and refinish those things...Griot's Garage has engine bay dressings to keep those parts looking good;

the original exhaust did not have a crossover pipe...what you have has been added later;

Mopar ignition module...your choice where the a/c evaporator is a good one...another good place would be behind the passenger side of the dash where it's also away from engine heat.

Hope someone else can answer your other questions.

[63 Avanti R2]

I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

1. What is the correct engine color?

2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from Jim

My power steering pump on my 63 R2 is all black, cover and all

Turning Wheels (June 1992) has alot of info on the 63 Avanti.

Page 14 there is a article about engine colors:

Black block, heads, pan, pulleys, starter, power brake and steering units. Chrome valve covers, breather caps (with STP decals) and oil dip stick handle. The valley plate was chrome on early models and painted black on later ones (the switch was made in March 1963). The fan was orange and the automatic transmission dip stick handle was yellow. Bright metal was used for ignition shielding, the air cleaner housing and R2 carb air inlet.

Most of not all superchargers were orange from the factory.

Steve from MN

Edited March 16, 2009 by 63 Avanti R2

[28meter]

I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

1. What is the correct engine color?

2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from Jim

[Jim78]

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

I believe that this is the original exhaust "equalizer" configuration. My '63 also had a crossover "H" pipe arrangement in the section of the exhaust pipe just ahead of the mufflers. It's been a lot of years, but I can remember cussing that arrangement as it was extremely difficult to assemble and align. Later replacement parts deleted the "H" and had straight duals. I don't have my '63 Avanti parts manual any more. Perhaps someone who has one could check to see if the "H" pipe is shown.

[attrite1]

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

I believe that this is the original exhaust "equalizer" configuration. My '63 also had a crossover "H" pipe arrangement in the section of the exhaust pipe just ahead of the mufflers. It's been a lot of years, but I can remember cussing that arrangement as it was extremely difficult to assemble and align. Later replacement parts deleted the "H" and had straight duals. I don't have my '63 Avanti parts manual any more. Perhaps someone who has one could check to see if the "H" pipe is shown.

Yes, it does........I believe the "H" pipe came with the "Quietone Muffler" option, whereas the straight duals had the cannister shaped glass-packs. Strangely enough the R3's came with the "H" pipe, at least, the 3 that I've seen. Typically that crossover balance pipe adds some power in the mid-rpm range, so it's not all that bad an idea.

[regnalbob]

2. Lacquer paint.

6. A straight exhaust was used on the early cars and after R-1753 the "H" pipe was used with the fibre glass and quiet tone mufflers.

7. Battery cables are black.

8. The oil pan can be removed with the engine in the car. The starter,crankcase vent tube,dipstick tube and steering bellcrank assembly have to be removed.

Edited March 18, 2009 by Regnalbob

[28meter]

Fellow Avanti fans,

I really appreciate all of the great tips and information you have given to help me with my little project!

Thanks from Jim,

[r5duecento]

I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

1. What is the correct engine color?

2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from Jim

I purchased my 63 R2 Avanti new and agree with the responses you have received; however, mine had the crossover pipe which does give a little more power and the supercharger was black. The car is serial number 63R1771.

[John Brissette]

I am in the process of renewing the appearance of the engine bay on my '63 R2 and have a few questions.

1. What is the correct engine color?

2. Was the original body paint lacquer or enamel? If it was lacquer, I will have to take extra precautions to keep the modern paint from bubbling the old.

3. Is the original power steering pump top bare metal or painted black? Mine is bare.

4. Where is a good hiding place for the chrysler ignition module? Any reason not to put it in the area where the A/C blower would be on a R1?

5. I would like a recommendation on how to best freshen up the finish on the non-painted items like the harness clips, plug wire track framework and hood latches?

6. Did the original exhaust system have a midship cross-over pipe under the transmission tail housing? Mine does...and it makes the exhaust pipes very dificult to lower for gasket replacement?

7. What is the original pos. and neg. battery cable colors?

8. Can I get the oil pan off with the engine in the car? It has a slight wet spot, a small dent and would be easier to paint when removed.

So far I have removed the radiator, coolant tank, cylinder heads, freeze plugs and everything off of the front of the engine in order to de-crud the cooling system. I am very glad that I did.....there was sediment 3/4" deep in the low circulation areas. Anyway at this stage it is obviously "prime time" to make her look showroom under the hood!

Any answers. tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from Jim

[John Brissette]

Regarding the location for the Chrysler Ignition module. I made a mount from "Hardware Cloth" other wise know as wire mesh. I then fiber glassed that mount on both sides of the mesh making a fiber glass mount that the module can be bolted to . Drill the mount to accept the module. Now , here is the difficult part.

I glassed the hand made mount to the UNDERSIDE of the falt surface that is adjacant to the driver side hood latch. You have to support the mount while the resin cures, but it will be out of the way when finished, and readily accesible.

Call if you need more information

502 773 0592

John Brissette

[63 Avanti R2]

Look in the June 1992 issue of Turning Wheels on page 14. That will give you alot of info.