FUEL INJECTION FOR 1963 AND 200 R4 TRANSMISSION SET UP

[studequest]

 

My car is a 1963 R1 Avanti with air conditioning
We embark on rebuilding the engine…..

 

Anyone with experiences converting the carburetor set up to FI Tech Fuel Injection

Anyone who has converted the factory automatic to a 200R4

I would like to know what problems you had, how happy you are with the result
For the transmission issue what do you do for the shift linkage in the car as it is no longer 1,2 D
it is 1,2,3 D

Finally do you change your rear end from 3.31 to 3.73 or other

Thanks Keith

 

 

Keith Jay Wahl MD FACS

8735 Nottingham Place

La Jolla California, 92037

858-5182190   email: kwahl@san.rr.com

 

 

[Gunslinger]

Give Mike Myer a call at Myer's Studebaker.  He makes an adapter plate and can answer all your questions on the install.

[brad]

I have done the fuel injection, with a Holley Sniper system. It's pretty much plug and play. Includes the fuel pump. lines, and fittings, and both a pre-filter, and a filter after the pump.  Also they make a progressive link so the secondaries  open a little later. I haven't needed that with the supercharged engine, but a R1 might. 

[studequest]

What year is this avanti

That box on the supercharger looks custom

Does this car have Air conditioning

What did you do about a return line.. How do you get it up to the gas tank behind the seat?

I see your fuel pump is on the frame- how many PSI and L/Hr?

[Avanti83]

If you are planning both conversions, which are not inexpensive, but worthwhile - two thoughts.

1- Add a distributor that is controlled by the ECM, they are not plentiful for Studes but worth the investment.

2 - Try the 3:31 and then decide if you need to upgrade to a higher number one. If you decide to change, positraction is a good investment if you don't have it. What you have will be better with the 2004R installed, I'll bet.

[Avanti83]

I will also add this thought as a separate post as it's the way I would go because it sounds like you want a dependable driver. The costs you are getting into are now in the range of dropping in a complete LS engine and trans combination. 

Those setups are plentiful in wrecking yards, easily dropped into Avanti's and reprogramming the ECM is straight forward for the ones from a few years back.

But you say I'm modifying an original car, Yup! but you are doing that with the conversions you are planning. Pull the original engine and trans - store it for posterity and drive happily.

I'll now go back into duck and cover mode.

[studequest]

You bring up very good points  Here is the path I am going on right now.. I would like to keep the car as close to what it came with.  I have to rebuild the engine

Tell me more about the Positraction

this car has always smoked even though performance has been good, but I am getting piston slap and I am smoking too much now

I checked the variety of fuel  systems I was thinking of; HOLLEY SNIPER, EFI AND EDELBROCK

While these appear to be straight forward the parts and labor probably approaches $3000

I suspect I am into engine for $4500

Transmission could be another $2500  soooooooo

1. I am keeping my standard carburetor for now

2. I am changing the rear end to 3.73 gears

3. I will then test the car to see what I have..

 

Thanks for the response.... Keith

 

[brad]

13 hours ago, studequest said:

What year is this avanti

That box on the supercharger looks custom

Does this car have Air conditioning

What did you do about a return line.. How do you get it up to the gas tank behind the seat?

I see your fuel pump is on the frame- how many PSI and L/Hr?

The  pump is included in the kit. It puts out 60psi IIRC. The Sniper system includes programable parameters for anything you'll likely to encounter. It will control the timing if you use an electronic distributor with the vacuum, and mechanical timing locked out. I use one of Dave Thiebaults Pertronix distributors. A vacuum advance lock out for small hei GM distributors replaces the canister, and the for the mechanical advance, I removed the top and shaft, and clocked it 180 so the "pin in the slot" now goes into a hole drilled directly opposite. Then I used an MSD phasable rotor. That allows 20 degrees of rotation to phase the rotor directly in line with the #1 plug tower of the cap, when the timing is firing . All the timing is then handled by the computer. Which then goes to the coil, or ignition box. I use an MSD 6AL in this case. All the instructions are on line in videos, on Youtube by Holley. 

Yes, the car is setup with AC. a necessity around here in the summer. 

I eliminated the electric fan controller, and used the sniper to control the fans. All programable from the hand held included controller.. You will need to add the temperature sensor, and an O2 sensor (which is included in the kit).

[studegary]

Before you rebuild the engine, have you determined exactly what is your problem area or areas?  The smoking may be just due to simple causes such as a need for new valve stem seals (accomplished without pulling the heads) and/or plugged drain holes in the heads (also do not have to pull the heads).

EDIT:  If you do end up rebuilding the engine, and do not do it yourself, go with someone experienced with Studebaker V8s, even it involves transport/shipping.  I know that the Chevrolet rebuilders will tell you that it is no problem because it is simply an OHV V8.  I have heard of MANY problems from people that went this route, such as leaving an oil chamber plug out resulting in insufficient oil pressure.  

Edited November 3, 2019 by studegary

[studequest]

THERE IS AUDIBLE PISTON SLAP, EXTENSIVE SMOKING

I WILL BE DOING A COMPRESSION TEST BEFOR WE PULL OUT AND WE CAN CHECK VALVES, BUT I BELIEVE IT IS A DEEPER ISSUE

I BELIEVE WE HAVE 180, 000 MILES ON THE ENGINE AND IT HAS ALWAYS SMOKED.. MUST SAY THAT IT HAS 60 LBS OIL PRESSURE

THANKS

 

KEITH