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wildfelr

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  1. RQB3263 IS FINALLY 99.9 % done... the last .1 % is unobtainable ..but ill keep trying ...so please share with me any info and experience about retro fitting LED headlight bulbs in place of the OEM 7" round incandescent originals.. Is it a direct bolt in change ( no modifications req)??...what brand and where from ??...wattage or candle power comparison with OEM ??..Im sure im not the first to do this so let me know how it goes ....THANKS , BILL , RQB3263

  2. RQB-3263 My 81 Avanti has round headlight ....and I am contemplating replacing them with round LED "bulbs"....it looks like Jeep aftermarket will fit right in...Anyone done this successfully ??..Of course im looking for more light and at $160 pair I want to get it right the first time ....BILL RQB3263

  3. RQB3263....IM GITTIN IN KINDA LATE HERE BUT...JOHN MEYER, DUNCAN FALLS OHIO (MEYERS STUDEBAKER) ENLIGHTENED ME ON THE 400CID INSTALLATIONS...IT SEAMS THAT BECAUSE THE 400 IS A TORQUERER ENGINE THAN THE 305 THEY SOMETIMES HAVE CRACKED THE FRAME AT THE ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT POINTS.....REPAIRING WITH THE ENGINE IN THE CAR IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE...JOHN CAN SUPPLY YOU WITH A DRILLED ENGINE MOUNT REINFORCEMENT PLATE TO INSTALL WITH THE ENGINE OUT....ITS A WELD IN DEAL I BELIEVE....REALLY SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA TO ME....MYERS ADVERTISES IN THE AOAI MAG AND ARE GREAT FOLKS....BILL RQB3263

  4. RQB3263....With regard to Aavantis...I was advised early to have glass work done by Avanti/ Studebaker specialist and am in the process of finishing that now...Mike Myers in Duncan Falls Ohio or Stephen Cade in Gainesville Florida have both done excellent work for me and can be personally recommended ..but there are others out there that have experience...my local and very honest glass shop wouldnt touch it and sent me to Stephen Cade...be sitting down when you get the price of the seals......new old stock seals work better and are easier to install than re production seals...so I was advised ...Nostalgic seam to have them.....Seals and sealant cost for RQB3263 now pushing $800...labor unknown at this point....dollar bills appear to be a very effective window leak preventative....BILL

  5. RQB3263....While visiting Classic Cars Inc. (Avanti IRS &IFS specialists) in Gainesville, Fl. I was shown a set of Mazdz Miata seats that would appear to be close to a direct bolt in in the Avanti...They would certainly be something to look at after all the work i went to to install the BMW 330 seats...In fact i may switch out the BMW seats for miata someday ...RQB3263....BILL

  6. RQB3263, To whom it may concern ... Today I visited CLASSIC CARS INC ...in Gainesville fl.one of there specialties is IRS AND IF Systems on avantis...very impressive shop and the finished chassis were awesome beyond my wildest expectations...there ph is 352-328-3124....and web site is ....cruisincars.net ...bill

  7. RQB3263...Im in the midst of paint and interior...here is what ive learned in the past 2 months...In order to do paint AND/OR interior you must remove the glass...this will req all new seals...it takes an Avanti specialist to do a proper job of removing and re-installing and sealing the glass...Im fortunate Ihave one here in Gville Fl....Steven Cade...the new seals purchased from Nostalgic...new old stock seals fit and are much easier to install than reproduction seals...so says the guru...all the seals and sealant cost (are you sitting down?) $750...+ labor just to R&R the windows....but its gotta be done to get the interior panels out...and paint the body properly.....RQB3263 is out of paint and at interior shop now then back to have glass reinstalled...itsa long process....

  8. RQB3263......How about this....use the existing moon roof door panel (removed from car) and pull a quickie mold from it....do a good solid layup in that mold and make a perfect fitting filler piece....trim it, bond it and fastener attach it in place...then normal filling to disappear the crack that your gonna have no matter what you do...and paint, and headliner....no window removal required...prob $150.00 materials...RQB3263......BILL

  9. RQB3263...Good morning all...I was advised there ia no disc brake conversion for my 81/Dana44...so I purchased everything new from Nostalgic...His brake drums were HALF the others quoted price ($150 each I recall)...keep up the good work...RQB3263 new paint will be buffed and out the door Tuesday!!..and over to the upholstery shop...BILL

  10. RQB3263 Is currently in the paint shop and should get color coat and clear this week...."Diamond Blue Metallic"...After some customizing work, a complete D/A sanding of existing paint (not original).and filling and spot priming and hand sanding it got a full polyester primer and sand...when I saw it Friday it was to go into the booth for a full epoxy primer/sealer, light sanding , 3 color coats and 3 clear coats....PPG materials I believe...then clean and buff...then over to the upholstery shop next week some time ....hahaha.....this is what the "experts" here in north Florida are doing.....RQB3263

  11. RQB3263 ...i RECENTLY FINISHED DOING PART OF WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT DOING ....FIRST time for m but went well on my 81/Dana44....I found no reason to dig into the center section (2:73 gear) I just cleaned it out and put in new grease...AND i probably made a mistake replacing the outer bearings...first there was no indication of wear so they coulda shoulda been repacked and reinstalled with new seal and gaskets....these bearings are hand packed not lubed from the center...and will need to be packed even if installing new...I purchased all the bearings and seals from Nostalgic in Michigan....but I now believe they are all available locally.... there is a steel retainer ring that is pressed over the axle and holds the bearing in place...SO HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED TO ME ...I took my axels to a "reputable" 4x4 guy locally.....who sad he had done 100 of them...and maybe so ....BUT...when i picked the up one of the new retainer rings was broken cracked....

    this might have resulted in axle separation !!!!...I had to order another steel collar and have it done again and he still charged me $30 per axle....HERES WHAT HAPPENED...the old bearings are (were) removed with a cutting torch...OK I understand that but the ham fisted mullett head pressed the new retaining collar onto a hot (expanded) axle....and broke it......he didnt notice it or simply tried to pass it off to me broken...YOU MUST INSPECT THERE WORK...OR.simply clean the existing bearings with solvent, dry and repack and be good for another 100,00 miles....as for the brakes I replaced everything...yes everything but the backing plate ...all bought from Nostalgic....while your under there replace the short flex brake hose also....works great last long time ...RQB3263 BILL

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  12. RQB3263....The too tall sending unit problem is very easily corrected by installation of a pipe thread adapter to AN-4 and use a stainless braided brake flex line about 12 inch long adapted to your sending unit and secured up near the back of your brake booster....Ive done this on every Chevy hot rod ive owned just for convenience sake....its easy and its cheap...BILL RQB3263

  13. RQB3263....My 305 runs max 35PSI (about 20 at idle) WITH 104K MILES....i have recently switched oil to Shell Rotella T 15w40...diesel oil...The diesel oils have the anti-wear ingredients legislated out of auto oil...thanks to our unelected wizards at the EPA...I suggest you switch also....BILL RQB3263

  14. Greg if the "D" for drive indicator next to the shift handle has a "O" or circle around it it may be an overdrive...I cant imagine anyone it back to a non OD trans....and of course you can always pop in to your local trans shop and get the straight scoop from a knowledgeable person....or just ask my wife...she has an answer for everything...BILL RQB3263...(Still in the paint shop)

  15. RQB3263....just ditch the electronic q jet carb. and direct bolt on a std. q jet ...one wire hook up....follow the wires back and remove them all and the boxes there associated with..install a vacuum advance HEI dist about 75$ delivered...Crane and many others make a series of "torque" cams/lifter kits about $350 and new valve springs (optional)....roller rockers would be a waste on this engine so forget that....Cloyes double roller timing chain $25 at CarQuest set is a absolute must....remove the EGR valve and install block off plate....remove exhaust thermostatic valve just below right exhaust manifold remove the flapper and weld up the cross shaft hole...remove the tubes from each ex port...(they extend about 3 inches up into the ex port)....and everything else associated with the P C system (pump, pully, brackets, belts, etc)...remove cat converter...check mufflers for restriction (hit them w your fist and see if they rattle)....install 160 degree thermostat w holes drilled to allow air to pass eliminate air bubbles...I did all these things and a few more (you may not need a valve job) but new head gaskets and good re torque might save pulling the heads later...I just (in May and June) did 3300 mile trip to South Bend and lotsa interesting points (including Myer's Studebaker in Duncan Falls, Ohio...highly recommended)...and got 21MPG on my 305 cruiser for the entire flawless trip...So there is a good weekends work ....RQB3263...BILL

  16. HI RON...rqb3263...I have used mid 70 to mid 80 Jag in two hotrods very successfully ...there great ..bullet proof and can take all the power an avanti has to offer....Do away with the Jag subframe sheet metal ...period ...its gotta go...its only in the way....when you come to visit ill show you on my 27 roadster its a great conversion and i have some mag articles on someone else who has done it on an avanti (frame off).....its been done many times on classic hotrods ...,,,,BILL RQB 3263

  17. Wow Greg...ill have to read this 2 or 3 times..sounds like youve done a
    bunch...everything helps a little bit its a cumulative thing......so
    lets do a couple other things ...(1) check ign timing with vacuum
    advance disconnected and plugged, 7 degrees should be about max. at idle
    (1 1/2) check vacuum overall vacuum leaks cause lean mixture and high
    temps (major vacuum leaks can be at brake booster and chk unused vac
    ports on your carb (there are several) (2) is your fan electric or belt
    driven?...if electric is it fully shrouded (most important) and wired to
    turn the correct direction? 3000CFM should be about minimum (3) drill 4
    or 5 small holes in the thermostat rim to let air bubbles pass (3 1/2)
    does it consume water coolant ?? (4)did you completely depolute the
    engine ...there are some hidden things that restrict exhaust flow that
    should be removed..(if you havent found them ill be glad to guide you)
    (5) if you have an automatic trans disconnect the cooler from the
    radiator and install an 18" aluminum cylindrical double pass cooler
    (mine mounted nicely crosswise behind the air dam..(pic avail) cost
    about $40..(5) I installed a high flow Stewart (brand) waterpump...(6) I
    would like to see your air dam/spoiler/scoop..is it really doing what
    you want it to do...(7) check mufflers for blockage...(hit them with
    your fist and see if they rattle)...ya i start getting nervous at 200
    degrees..my 305 seldome exceeds 180 now and my fan comes on at
    178..thank goodness for cast iron engines...the decline of the auto
    industry can be traced back to the beginning of the mass use of the
    aluminum engine...just my opinion...BILL RQB3263....my avanti has the
    interior and windows stripped out and is in for body customizing and
    paint orig Diamond Blue Metalic...Adios for now ...BILL

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