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Charlie Kile

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Posts posted by Charlie Kile

  1. My 84 Touring Optioned Coupe came with a 2.86 Twin Traction rear end. Don't know if all the TOCs came with that gear set. But for Highway cruising it works well. The change to a 350 HO also helps.

    Charlie RQB3921

  2. I see you're reading 12v on the negative side of the coil. When the points are closed you should read 0v there or only a very small amount. When the points are open there should be 12v there. If you're reading a significant voltage there with the points closed, check the connections on the wire running from the points to the coil. If that's good try running a ground wire from the breaker plate to the engine.

  3. A spark is generated when the current to the coil in interrupted whether by a set of points or an electronic ignition. I f you get a momentary spark when the ignition is switched off it is a good indication that the Electronic ignition isn't working. A common problem is a short in the distributer causing a constant current flow through the coil when the ignition is on. Make certain that the wire from the distributer side of the coil isn't shorted somewhere particularly around the breaker plate in the distributer.

    Charlie RQB3921

  4. Back in the 70s I was racing stock bodied cars on local dirt tracks. We got our tires from a local shop that made ReCaps just for us. He also had a tire grinder and groover and could custom make tires the way we wanted. At the time the tires on my E-Type always seemed unbalanced. (Dunlap chrome wire knock off wheels). I took the car to the tire shop where he ground the tires round on the wheels then balanced them on the car. Had to be careful to raise both rear wheels due to the positraction. But the car was incredibly smooth after words and the tires lasted nearly 20 years. I don't know if any one grinds tires any more but if you can find someone it made a huge difference with my wire wheels. Charlie RQB3921

  5. I bought this Touring Optioned Coupe, RQB3921, from Dan Booth in 1998.

    Every few months it wouldnt start.The voltage would drop to zero when the key was turned then show 13 volts when released. Eventualy it always started. But It would never do it, nor could I duplicate it, at home.

    I switched out the engine in 2007 and went to a serpentine belt set up. I replaced all the accessories with new except the starter.

    Everything was good till about a year ago and it started the same thing all over!

    As I backed out of my garage a while back I forgot some thing and shut it off. Went inside to get what ever it was that I had forgotten.

    When I went to start it it wouldn't start. Finally it happened at my house where I could check things out!

    I got my old VTVM out and started checking things out.

    Battery post 13volts,Battery post clamps 13volts, cable lug at the solenoid 13volts, solenoid post about 3volts!

    Obviously a loose nut on the post. Nope it was tight. Probably carroded. This would explain why it worked so long after the engine change. So I disassembled everything.

    While removing the nut from the solenoid post I noticed that it was tight all the way off.

    I didn't see any carrosion but lightly sanded every thing anyway.

    I also ran a 3/8x24 tap through the nut, Suprisingly it went easily so I figured the threads on the post were deformed. But they looked good.

    I reassembled every thing noting that the nut still felt tight. I tightened everything snugly.

    To make sure it was tight I tried moving the cable lug. IT MOVED! so I tried tightening ithe nut some more.

    Didn't help.

    Still moved.

    So I disassembled it again. Since I have sa small machine shop and have the tools I checked the threads on the solenoid. They were 10x1 mm !

    I called a starter generator shop and sure enough it needed a 10x1 mm nut which he gave me.

    Seems that GM uses both sizes! Both a 3/8x24 and some 10x1mm

    Charlie

  6. I bought this Touring Optioned Coupe, RQB3921, from Dan Booth in 1998.

    Every few months it wouldnt start.The voltage would drop to zero when the key was turned then show 13 volts when released. Eventualy it always started. But It would never do it, nor could I duplicate it, at home.

    I switched out the engine in 2007 and went to a serpentine belt set up. I replaced all the accessories with new except the starter.

    Everything was good till about a year ago and it started the same thing all over!

    As I backed out of my garage a while back I forgot some thing and shut it off. Went inside to get what ever it was that I had forgotten.

    When I went to start it it wouldn't start. Finally it happened at my house where I could check things out!

    I got my old VTVM out and started checking things out.

    Battery post 13volts,Battery post clamps 13volts, cable lug at the solenoid 13volts, solenoid post about 3volts!

    Obviously a loose nut on the post. Nope it was tight. Probably carroded. This would explain why it worked so long after the engine change. So I disassembled everything.

    While removing the nut from the solenoid post I noticed that it was tight all the way off.

    I didn't see any carrosion but lightly sanded every thing anyway.

    I also ran a 3/8x24 tap through the nut, Suprisingly it went easily so iI figured the threads on the post were deformed. But they looked good.

    I reassembled every thing noting that the nut still felt tight.I tightened everything snugly.

    To make sure it was tight I tried moving the cable lug. IT MOVED! so I tried tightening it some more.

    Didn't help.

    Still moved.

    So I disassembled it again. Since I have sa small machine shop and have the tools I checked the threads on the solenoid. They were 10x1 mm!

    I called a starter generator shop and sure enough it needed a 10x1 mm nut which he gave me.

    Seems that GM uses both sizes! Both a 3/8x24 and some 10x1mm

    Charlie

  7. My 84 Touring optioned coupe has 2.86 gears with positraction, 700-R4 transmission,and P215 70 15 tires.

    According to the Arkansas and Missouri Highway Patrols my speedometer is almost exactly 10% slow.I/E when I'm showing 72 mph I'm actualy going 79. Neither gave me a ticket only warnings. When I'm showing 72 mph my tach is reading a fat 1700 rpm.

    Charlie RQB-3921

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