brad
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Posts posted by brad
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Mount a pump with high enough pressure to overcome the supercharger boost. Use a boost referenced, by-pass type fuel pressure regulator and use the bypass plumbed to the tank return line.
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The York is a inefficient compressor, and takes too much power to turn. A Sanden 508 or 1716 is smaller, lighter, more effeceint, better looking, and takes less hp to run, Plus there are adapters that make it a direct bolt on. With R134 they are they way to go. A parallel flow condensor is usually recommended for the change to 134 also. Barrier hoses are also needed for the 134 to keep it's charge over the long haul. The 134 gas molecule is smaller and will pass right through rubber hoses over time.
P.S. I almost forgot.....the Sanden is also less expensive!
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Gary Hart may have one, I took off Thom Gipes car.
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I have new weatherstrip from the manufacturer that originally made it for Avanti, and the documentation to prove it. But I have a limited supply, unless they are willing to run off more. I don't know if they still have the extrusion dies.
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Danny, I have what you need. Do you still have the aluminum extrusion the weather strip mounts into? (on the top).
Brad
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Welcome Joe. Some of the things to be leery of, are rust issues of the metal parts. The 'A' pillars can rust under the stainless trim. The sub floor rocker panel torque boxes (hog troughs) are an expensive item to replace, but necessary for body rigidity, and ties the roll bar to the frame. The frame itself is another place that will frequently rust. Check the front of the rear leaf spring area, and the rear tubular crossmember. Upper control arm bushings wear relatively fast. Steering linkages have a lot of grease fittings, and if overlooked, can cause sloppy steering,
Interior stainless trim is very hard to find.
An R1 has pretty high compression for todays crappy gas. If you find an original car, it may be prone to overheat, unless you remove the core plugs, and flush out the block. You may often find wires left over from the casting cores, and a build up of sediment. Composition head gaskets will lower the compression by 1/2 a point. The original brakes are expensive to replace, but work well for the era of the vehicle. (newer upgrades are available, and don't deduct judging points(saftey)).
R2 engines superchargers are expensive to rebuild, and all the bracketry is too. Lesser Studebaker parts sometimes are substituted for heavier duty Avanti parts, and wont do the job as well (fuel pump, water pump, distributor, cam timing gear).
Interior kits are usually inferior to stock. Find a good upholsterer.
Power windows are often balky and need servicing/or motors. The inside of the doors can break from the torque of the window mechanism if the tracks get out of alignment, or lube dries out. (easily reinforced if you're handy).
The rest is pretty much straight forward old car piccadillos.
You will be pleasantly surprised at the good availability of parts, and how well they drive, when everything is up to snuff.
The wood grained dash overlays were a stock addition after certain serial numbers.
Rare and desireable options are tilt wheel, and AM/FM radio. and of course the R3 engine!
The engine number is stamped into a pad located on the top of the block on the drivers side, near a crescent shaped block off plate that is bolted . R1 serial #s would start with R XXX....and R2's would start with RS XXX . (X being the particular engine number)
A 4Speed is slightly more valuable than an auto to collectors.
do
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On some later Avanti's the studs for the heater housing that go through the firewall are a bit long. It will be more difficult to slide the assy. back enough to clear everything. I ended up removing the dash bolts (all of 'em) and sliding the dash up, and back enough to remove the housing. It takes patience, but certainly do-able.
I would recommend cutting the studs so they only stick through 1/2".
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I only had one,(passenger side), and it is torn around the upper hinge pivot.
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I think I just threw up in my mouth a little.
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Evercoat and many over the counter resins have a wax in them. If you are building up layers it must be removed .(with lacquer thinner). Rub in one direction so as not to work it in, and use plenty of clean cloths to soak up the wax layer that skins over on fresh cured repairs. It's best to repair in single layers, let cure, wipe clean, sand to remove glaze (after cleaning) and repeat. Use collodial silica to thicken resins and prevent shrinkage . Use SMC adheasive as a top filler, it wont shrink.
After it really close, you can use regular glaze. Use paste white glaze in the can, not the softer 'pourable' stuff. Prime with a high build epoxy primer like PPG DPHS.
don't use polyester "Slick Sand, Slick Sand +4, or Feather Fill, you will regret it in the form of deep chips that form very easily.
Don't try to hide 80 grit scratches with primer. Finish your work with 220 then prime. Block your work straight with dry 320. Re-prime with a good 2K urethane block with 400 wet, then finish sand with 800.then you can base+ clear and not ever have to worry about your work showing through. Then you can have fun color sanding to 5000 grit in three successive stages, and buff so you can read your watch reflection from 10 feet away.
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I may have some used ones, however, I may just have one side.....I will check.
Often they can be softened by soaking them in trans fluid, Then wipe down with glycerin.
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The dashpot is more to prevent stalling upping the idle. If it is surging, it is usualy because it is trying to stall, and loosing vacuum enough to make it kick in.
I had this exact thing happen on a customers car, it turns out the idle speed was set so low that it was trying to die at idle, but the dashpot would kick in preventing it. This caused a wierd surging loping idle. Turn up the idle speed screw (not the mixture screws).
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One black wire goes to the resistor, from the resistor, it goes to the + side of the coil. It is power when running (not starting like the green wire), and is direct from the ignition switch. The second black wire, should have a yellow tracer, and it goes to the - side of the coil, and is the signal for the tachometer. It goes to the round brass can under the dash.
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The heavy with wire goes under the inner nut of the drivers side ignition shield behind the valve cover. The orange wire goes to the temperature gauge sending unit. The light green with black tracer goes to the "start" terminal of the starter relay, and then directly to the + side of the coil. The black wire goes to the - side of the coil to the tachometer sending unit under the dash.
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The heavy with wire goes under the inner nut of the drivers side ignition shield behind the valve cover. The orange wire goes to the temperature gauge sending unit. The light green with black tracer goes to the "start" terminal of the starter relay, and then directly to the + side of the coil. The black wire goes to the - side of the coil to the tachometer sending unit under the dash.
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I've worked on BMW's that cost over 150K new. Vettes cost over 80K. This (Avanti) is essentially a new car now. Which would you say is the better investment? Which car will not loose half it's value in a couple of years? Which car will get noticed?
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Drain the radiator down enough to disconnect the heater hoses on the engine. Then blow through with compressed air (lightly) to get all the anti freeze out of the core. You will, of course, have to have the heater valve open to do this. his prevents a further mess when disconnecting the interior side of the hoses.
By the steering column, just to the right is one single phillips head bolt holding the distribution plenum box to the firewall, and heater fan housing. Remove this bolt, and the body should be free enough to slide left and disengage the heater fan housing. The heater, the housing, and the motor all comes out as a unit.
On the right kick panel, is another phillips head bolt. It screws into a rubber well nut, just above the vent door opening. On the engine side, at the heater motor, are 4 7/16 nuts that hold the housing in place to the firewall. Remove these too. Disconnect the wiring plug from the motor. Lastly, back inside, remove the hoses from the heater core. (Some will still dribble, so place a catch pan under it). Make sure the bourden expansion tube is not damaged from the heater valve. The housing should be able to be wrangled inwards, and slightly to the left. Once it's free undo the wire control cable clip, and slide the control wire off the flapper, then you can remove the whole shebang from the car, and further seperate it on the bench, and remove the heater core. Don't forget to clean the filter screen. new gaskets are available,or they are easily made.
Installation is just the reverse. Be careful that the wire for the motor doesn't get pinched between the firewall and the housing when feeding it back through.
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It was a supposedly restored car. The trim was never removed, and rubber was oversprayed. The interior was hard cracked vinyl, that was dyed to mask flaws.
The body work was very wavy. Wrong water pump. AC didn't work. Rear axle shaft was bent (hit a curb I guess). Carpet was spray painted black. Thresholds were bubbled up and rusty. Under hood was a mess, as well as the wiring.
Check my blog to see what work was done. I also did the front suspension bushings, replaced rear axles with flanged, and added dual master cylinder.
Took about 4 months. He paid about 22K for the car, and has about that in my work.
He could have started with a rougher car, and it would have turned out as nice.
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I'm almost ready to ship this one to Switzerland, I just have to install the metric speedometer (when I get it).
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B & M Trick Shift is equivalent to type F and a very fine fluid, albeit a little pricey. True type A had ambergris (whale oil)and is no longer sold.
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There is a discussion on the SDC forum about the lower scoop being blackened out on Avantis. I was of the opinion that the body was all one color when they were new and left the factory. Others thought differently.
Now I am not sure. I've seen factory photos where they were not, and air brushed magazine ads where they were!
What is the consensus?
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Looking for advice where/how to check the operation of my R2 supercharger, and if faulty someone to fix it. Symptom is oil in the supercharger to carburetor manifold. Also there is an (unattached) hose nipple at the back of the supercharger. What is that for?
It can be a simple as over filling the unit, the rear seals were cast iron rings. The nipple is supposed to boost reference the fuel pump. It bleeds off pressure to in effect 'supercharge' the pumps spring pressure. There is supposed to be a line to a fitting on the top of the fuel pump diaphragm. It's there because if the boost pressure equals or exceeds the fuel pressure, the fuel stops flowing to the carburetor.
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also try 248.349.4884
Thanks, I talked to Dan yesterday, and he only has Lark ones left. 0-200 and the larger size.
I need, 0-280 KPH
Thanks, Brad
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I've used both Speed and Sport, and Forresters. For drivers quality go with Forrester, for show, use Speed & Sport.
Avanti Paint confusion
in 1963-64 Avanti
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They (Studebakers) were all red oxide lacquer primer, then color. Yours looks to be Avanti Grey. Look closely at the first layer of grey. I'm betting it's metallic.
The subsequent layers are repaints.