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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. If the fenders had cracked they have been repaired. Both front fenders of my Avanti look like they have been repaired. There is a "wave" located at the rear of the wheel opening at about the belt line going straight up to the top of the fender. Someone told me at an Avanti meet that the first 120 of the '87 Avanti had a problem with the front fenders cracking I was just wondering if this was true and what caused the problem.

  2. Not sure of Studebaker but I worked on a lot of Fords with this problem. Ford had a circuit breaker inside the headlight switch, when the switch started to go bad the headlights would start going on and off. When you pulled the switch you could see where one or more of the spade terminals on the switch were overheated. Sometimes the plastic headlight plug would melt.

  3. My 87 Avanti looks as if the front fenders cracked behind the wheel openings and have been repaired. I have been told that Kelly had a problem with cracked front fenders on his early Avanti's. <_< Is this true and what caused them to crack?

  4. I wouldn't recommend it. Not that it would cause the engine problems but because older carburated engines use an air pump to supply additional air to the exhaust to get the converter to work. Without this air the converters would probabily plug up pretty quick.

  5. Does anyone know a source for an 88 sprayer head or what might be available for an alternative?


    Whats wrong with original? You can clean it out with a thin piece of wire, I take a bread tie and strip off the paper. Then you can adjust with a small wrench or socket, 8mm I think.

  6. After making sure that all my tie rods and ball joints were OK I started to look for the problem of loose steering on my '87 Avanti. :angry: Here is what I found:

    1. The flexible steering shaft that goes from the steering column shaft to the steering box was loose at the upper slip joint. There is a bolt that connects it to the steering column shaft, but it was loose allowing the slip joint to pivot. Tighten the bolt up to take out the movement. Rubber at the bottom of shaft was OK.

    2. Adjusted 80,000 miles of play out of gear box. This made alot of difference, returned road feel and made the car go where I pointed it.


    3.Added a front brace from Savitske Classic & Custom. It cost me $180.00 with delivery and made the front end rock stable. I was totally surprised at the improvement this brace made and it only took 15 minutes to install, using OEM holes and bolts.


    The difference is incredible. No wandering and is a dream in turns. Stable with no play. The first two things I tried made a big diffence and didn't cost a cent. :)

  7. Hello all;

    I tried a inexpensive upgrade to my front brakes and the results were

    good. This is an upgrade that can be done during a front brake

    replacement. My Avanti uses Chevrolet Monte Carlo brakes.

    I replaced the front rotors and brakes with Raybestos Drilled and

    Slotted Rotors, (part #'s BR5064L & BR5064R, about $80.00 each) and

    Performance Friction Pads (part # 0154.20 about $60.00).

    After breaking them in for about 300 miles they stop straight and

    true with a high firm pedal. The new brakes stop at least 10 feet

    shorter at 40 mph with no fading after several panic stops. Fact is

    my 3rd and 4th stop was shorter than the first two.

    Recommend this upgrade. But find a safe place to test. My first try

    to test the setup blew out my rear brake line. Rear lines were rusted

    bad. Glad I caught it during testing and not on the street.

    James Wood


  8. I'm getting ready to upgrade my front brakes. Parts are for a '87 Monte Carlo. I'm using Raybestos rebuilt calipers, new brake hoses, Raybestos drilled and slotted rotors and Performance Fiction pads. Will test before and after braking distances and will post.

  9. Well I’m getting ready to dive into the A/C on my ’87 and it scares the heck out of me. If anyone knows how Avanti Motors wired the A/C, I would appreciate the help. I found the original GM compressor clutch plug taped up to the engine harness under the air cleaner, it doesn’t look like it was ever used and the wiring ends at a loose plug near the accumulator. The system wiring is different than a GM system and uses a different A/C control unit on the dash. The air box is a real piece of work; looks like two air boxes were glued together with at least one air flap riveted so as not to move. Someone added an electric fan to the front of the condenser and wired into the compressor clutch. A no-no that probably caused the compressor clutch to fail. I’m going to try to fix the OEM system first, but may try an aftermarket system like Vintage Air if it gives me too many problems.

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