IndyJimW
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Posts posted by IndyJimW
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Edelbrock TES headers. I have been wanting to try them but was worried about underhood temperatures getting to high. So they work OK for you Bob? My 5.0L is still strong so I'm waiting, have a LT1 with a 700R4 that I will replace it with one of these days.
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The site lets you try wheels from different companies, Boyd Coddington etc. I don't know why they couldn't make wheels for early Avanti's as most of the companies on the site make custom wheels.
My Avanti takes Chevy wheels so most styles will fit. -
I also found a site for comparing different tire sizes. Visit http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos, it even tells you the difference it will make on your speedometer.
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Found a site for viewing custom wheels on a Avanti. Go to http://www.autowaretech7.net/nextwheels/newstal.htm and set Make to Classic or Studebaker and then set Model to Avanti 63-64. Then have fun!
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Keep up the good work.!!!! Its great to see someone updating the mechanics and still keeping it where it can be returned to orginal.
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I have used the screw base flourescent bulbs in my regular drop light, but they crack soooo easy. Last one only fell about 12 inches onto the interior carpet.
Hmm......The reason I suggested them was because we have had so much luck with it in my shop. I've only used two in about 6 months, a record for droplight bulbs.
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I will be using the NAPA R134 upgrade kit on my wifes 1986 IROC soon. Its not
that expensive and comes with all the fittings. I think it was 65 bucks? Chances
are your R12 system is leaking from the actual shrader valves, I had this happen
on my 1993 Camaro Z28. Its an R134 system ... but those valves go bad.
Tom
Be aware that R134a is not compatible with the OEM oil that is in a R12 system, could cause problems later on. A/C system should be flushed and oil for a R134a system added.
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1) Take your Avanti to an A/C shop and have the leak fixed and convert it over to R134a. Will be cheaper in the long run. Installing a different system is not cheap or easy.
2) If your power windows are like my '87's you can pull up on the center console wood trim around the shifter to get access to the bottom of the switches. Just switch the connectors for the drivers window and passenger window. If it works with the drivers window switch then the problem is in the motor or the wiring. My drivers window wouldn't work, I cleaned the motor plug-in and ground and it worked OK after that. The motor should be a MOPAR part and can be found at any parts store.
3) I had a problem like that with my 200R4 also. I'm a mechanic and tried everything I could including taking it to some transmission experts I know, my Avanti would always shift fine for them. I was doing some exhaust work and decided to replace the convertor because of the mileage, 87,000
on the orginal convertor, when I removed the convertor I found that it was coming apart inside with a big piece that would turn and block the exhaust. The exhaust back pressure would allow the engine to accelerate but it would have no power. Since the replacement of the convertor I have not had my "transmission problem". Just goes to show how complicated some problems can get, but on the good side my transmission works great after all the attention I gave it.
4) Take your Avanti to a good shop and have your battery, alternator and starter load tested. Also have them perform a voltage drop test on your positive and negative battery cables. This will tell you if it is an electrical problem.
Good luck and have fun with your Avanti!
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My '87 Avanti with a 305HO CCC engine and 200R4 get about 15.5 mpg. I just installed a custom exhaust and converter and havn't run enough for new mpg figures, but I have more power. I have a LT1 with a 700R4 sitting in a wrecked Buick Roadmaster just waiting to be installed, should get 25 mpg and LOTS more power.
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The hinge is not a GM style. My body man has been in the business for 50 years and said it looks like it could have been bent by the door opening too far, maybe by the wind? Both upper and lower hinges are large and heavy with a stop in the center of the door made from tubing. He said it reminds him of the hinges from a '60's Ford Thunderbird, so I think it is a Studebaker part. We have adjusted it as far as it will let us, the door doesn't sag but when closed the top of the door sticks out further than the fender. If you look down from the top the upper hinge is flatter with less of a bend then the lower hinge.
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My body guy told me that my driver's side upper door hinge is bent and that is why the door can't be adjusted flush. Does anyone know where I can get a door hinge for my '87?
Thanks.
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Purchased my '87 off of e-bay a little over a year ago. Car was as advertised and I picked it up for about $3000.00 less than I expected to pay. Even got my Credit Union to finance the full purchase price. I'm happy.
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Won't
'87 uses a G-body frame and running gear. -
Get a good solid droplight, the type with a metal shield that everyone hates because it burns you from the heat of the bulb.
I picked up one from Sears with an extension plug-in and 25 feet of cord for less than $10. Then get a package of Long Life Fluorescent Spiral Bulbs, the ones equal to 60 or 100 watt bulbs. We've been using ours for over 6 months and are only on our second bulb, you can leave them on all day and still grap the metal shield because they don't put out any heat. The bulbs seem to be tough as nails, better than any shop rated bulb I've used and the mechanics like the light better when in tight spaces. Paid less than $20 for droplight and 4 bulbs. -
Installed a Torque Tech GM G-body 2 1/2" Cat-Back Exhaust Kit with Walker Super Dynomax mufflers and a CATO-4116 Cat-Converter on my '87 Avanti. The converter was a direct bolt on for the OEM with a bigger outlet 4" compared to the OEM 2 1/2". The exhaust bolted up easily with only a couple of problems. I think the exhaust pipe is a bit too close to the passenger seat well, so I'm going to drop it back down and wrap the pipe at that point. Also the G-body exhaust exits further out to the sides then the Avanti, so I cut the pipes behind the rear wheels to exit. I am going to bend the pipe that is left and then bring them out the back later. I wanted a quiet system and with better performance and got both. The OEM cat was causing a problem of no power every now and then, the inside of the converter was coming apart and blocking exhaust flow. I will post some photos later.
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Jack up the rear end and turn the driveshaft, count how many turns to 1 turn of the wheel.
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I am running Crager Black Slot 8 15" rims with P215/70R15 tires and am thinking of going to 16" rims to get a better selection of performance tires. I'm looking at a P215/55R16 or P225/55R16 tire size. Is anyone else running these sizes?
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Great to here from someone else in Indianapolis. What type of paint schemes are you considering?
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Just a personal opinion from someone that has installed over a half million filters.
I will not use filters from Fram, Purolator, Group 7, Pennzoil and other no name filters. They may be good filters, BUT I don't like their construction, it allows too many ways for the filter to bypass internally.
I perfer Baldwin (my personal favorite), ProTec (made by WIX), WIX, AC/Delco, Champ and Motorcraft. WIX also makes NAPA, Car Quest and others.
Again this is my personal opinion based on cutting open a lot of filters.
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Sounds great! Won't you have to change master cylinders also.
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Your welcome. Anytime I can be of service.
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I make my living maintaining equipment. You can use the Baldwin website www.baldwinfilter.com for info on filters.
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Crossed it over into Baldwin.
Avanti takes a B9 Baldwin.
M1-203 crosses over to a B39 in Baldwin which is a short version of a B9.
So YES it should work, same specs. just shorter.
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My 87 Avanti is mounted on a 87 Monte Carlo SS frame. No spacers are used.
I've got a LT1 engine with a 700R4 trans. that I was going to install but the problem with a G-body frame is that the LT1 AC compressor will not clear the frame. The frame is so weak in the front that I dont feel safe notching the frame so it will clear. I'm looking for a 88 Camaro with the TPI system to install on my 305HO.
I did have an article in the Avanti magazine about installing drop spindles. I went that way because I wanted the rake look of the orginal Avanti but not the problems other methods could cause, I have not had any problems with the ride, tires rubbing or alignment.
I like the rims that you put on your 63, I'm looking into some 16's so that I can keep the same tire diameter but get better performance tires.
Click on the picturetrail site below to see my Avanti.
Wheels and tires
in 1984-91 Avanti
Posted
I've been trying out some different wheel and tire combinations because there isn't much available in good performance tires in 15". I've decided to install 16x7 wheels with a 4" back spacing and P225/60R16 tires. The test rim and tire works OK with about a 1/4" of clearance from the rear inner wheel well flap. The front rubbed the frame on the drivers side if you locked up the power steering all the way right. I can add some material to the right steering stop to prevent this if I want to, but I don't see myself locking the steering up all the way. The 16" tire diameter is almost the same as the orginal P205/65R15's so I shouldn"t have trouble with the speedometer. Tried to mount 17x8 rims but it wouldn't fit on the rear, too wide, will try to find some 17x7's next.