IndyJimW
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Posts posted by IndyJimW
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I've been running the new wheels and tires for a few days now, 16x7 wheels and P225/60R16 Yokohama AVS db tires, I'm very happy with the handling and RIDE improvement. I wasn't expecting a better ride. I think with all the improvements to the chassis (Performance Suspension Stage IV kit, etc.) I just overloaded the capability of the 15" tires. So far no clearance issues, but I would like some additional backspacing in the wheels. I'll save that for when I get custom rims.
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Hi Urs,
I see you got my e-mail, welcome to the site!
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A mechanic I know that works by himself uses a 12 volt buzzer that he picked up at Radio Shack to check for battery drains, He connects it between the battery and positive cable, then pulls fuses until the buzzer stops making noise.
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Great to hear about the brakes, I'm planning rear discs soon. Just curious, could you use one of the universal mandrel bend exhaust kits offered by Summit?
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Good advise! I would add the dye too one item at a time, our dyes look the same under the black light.
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I wonder if you can remove the skirt ... OR modify it?
Tom
Well......the wider tires may just do that.
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Yes .. that does make it easier to find stuff, but I find it strange how you have less rear
wheel room then the Lark-chassis cars. Weird.
Tom
Its not the body that it is close to rubbing, they added a plastic inner fender shirt that comes down and attaches to the frame. The tire comes within 1/2" from it.
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Yes, that IS the single biggest problem, the other being the exhaust manifolds. The heads
are a "D" port, your current engine is most likely a "square" port. The location that the
manifold "dumps" on the LT1 is different then most early SBC apparently.
What A/C bracket did you decide to go with? The Corvette one has been discontinued,
and the aftermarket one I found was close to 1000 bucks!
Tom
The exhaust manifolds on my LT1 exit at the rear, shouldn't be too much of a problem.
The A/C relocate kit costs $289.00. Go to http://www.bowersrodshop.com/home.htm.
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Those dropped spindles on the front sure give it the old "Avanti rake" and make it look soooooooo good...but we're tired of dragging the exhaust at every hard dip in the road. New shocks haven't made much difference and if I have to replace the springs, I might as well just install the airbag setup and have it fully adjustable.
Bob
I've had no problems with my drop spindles causing anything to drag.
Maybe I'm not driving it hard enough? -
Have any questions with that LT1, give me a holler ... I am pretty versed in them.
Also I am doing a swap into a 78 Camaro which should be simular.
Tom
Thanks for the offer. I have the donor car sitting out back and it runs so I shouldn't have too many problems.
The only real problem I saw was that the A/C compressor would hit the frame, but I found an A/C bracket kit that moves the compressor to the drivers side of the engine. -
Sounds great and a job well done! There are rear disc brake kits available for my '87 Avanti, I think that will be my next upgrade. I've been talking to an Avanti owners group in Switzerland that is installing a rear disc kit on their '88, I've been waiting to see how it turns out. They also have a '64 so I will make sure they see your topic. They wanted better brakes for the Autoban, 140mph in their Avanti!
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I currently have 17 x 8 and it looks like I could have got away with a 9 or 10 wide. What frame does the
Avanti you have ... have? It must not be the Lark type.
Tom
My '87 Avanti uses the frame and chassis from a '87 Molte Carlo SS. Most Chevy performance parts will fit, makes life a little easier.
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I've been trying out some different wheel and tire combinations because there isn't much available in good performance tires in 15". I've decided to install 16x7 wheels with a 4" back spacing and P225/60R16 tires. The test rim and tire works OK with about a 1/4" of clearance from the rear inner wheel well flap. The front rubbed the frame on the drivers side if you locked up the power steering all the way right. I can add some material to the right steering stop to prevent this if I want to, but I don't see myself locking the steering up all the way. The 16" tire diameter is almost the same as the orginal P205/65R15's so I shouldn"t have trouble with the speedometer. Tried to mount 17x8 rims but it wouldn't fit on the rear, too wide, will try to find some 17x7's next.
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Edelbrock TES headers. I have been wanting to try them but was worried about underhood temperatures getting to high. So they work OK for you Bob? My 5.0L is still strong so I'm waiting, have a LT1 with a 700R4 that I will replace it with one of these days.
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The site lets you try wheels from different companies, Boyd Coddington etc. I don't know why they couldn't make wheels for early Avanti's as most of the companies on the site make custom wheels.
My Avanti takes Chevy wheels so most styles will fit. -
I also found a site for comparing different tire sizes. Visit http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos, it even tells you the difference it will make on your speedometer.
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Found a site for viewing custom wheels on a Avanti. Go to http://www.autowaretech7.net/nextwheels/newstal.htm and set Make to Classic or Studebaker and then set Model to Avanti 63-64. Then have fun!
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Keep up the good work.!!!! Its great to see someone updating the mechanics and still keeping it where it can be returned to orginal.
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I have used the screw base flourescent bulbs in my regular drop light, but they crack soooo easy. Last one only fell about 12 inches onto the interior carpet.
Hmm......The reason I suggested them was because we have had so much luck with it in my shop. I've only used two in about 6 months, a record for droplight bulbs.
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I will be using the NAPA R134 upgrade kit on my wifes 1986 IROC soon. Its not
that expensive and comes with all the fittings. I think it was 65 bucks? Chances
are your R12 system is leaking from the actual shrader valves, I had this happen
on my 1993 Camaro Z28. Its an R134 system ... but those valves go bad.
Tom
Be aware that R134a is not compatible with the OEM oil that is in a R12 system, could cause problems later on. A/C system should be flushed and oil for a R134a system added.
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1) Take your Avanti to an A/C shop and have the leak fixed and convert it over to R134a. Will be cheaper in the long run. Installing a different system is not cheap or easy.
2) If your power windows are like my '87's you can pull up on the center console wood trim around the shifter to get access to the bottom of the switches. Just switch the connectors for the drivers window and passenger window. If it works with the drivers window switch then the problem is in the motor or the wiring. My drivers window wouldn't work, I cleaned the motor plug-in and ground and it worked OK after that. The motor should be a MOPAR part and can be found at any parts store.
3) I had a problem like that with my 200R4 also. I'm a mechanic and tried everything I could including taking it to some transmission experts I know, my Avanti would always shift fine for them. I was doing some exhaust work and decided to replace the convertor because of the mileage, 87,000
on the orginal convertor, when I removed the convertor I found that it was coming apart inside with a big piece that would turn and block the exhaust. The exhaust back pressure would allow the engine to accelerate but it would have no power. Since the replacement of the convertor I have not had my "transmission problem". Just goes to show how complicated some problems can get, but on the good side my transmission works great after all the attention I gave it.
4) Take your Avanti to a good shop and have your battery, alternator and starter load tested. Also have them perform a voltage drop test on your positive and negative battery cables. This will tell you if it is an electrical problem.
Good luck and have fun with your Avanti!
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My '87 Avanti with a 305HO CCC engine and 200R4 get about 15.5 mpg. I just installed a custom exhaust and converter and havn't run enough for new mpg figures, but I have more power. I have a LT1 with a 700R4 sitting in a wrecked Buick Roadmaster just waiting to be installed, should get 25 mpg and LOTS more power.
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The hinge is not a GM style. My body man has been in the business for 50 years and said it looks like it could have been bent by the door opening too far, maybe by the wind? Both upper and lower hinges are large and heavy with a stop in the center of the door made from tubing. He said it reminds him of the hinges from a '60's Ford Thunderbird, so I think it is a Studebaker part. We have adjusted it as far as it will let us, the door doesn't sag but when closed the top of the door sticks out further than the fender. If you look down from the top the upper hinge is flatter with less of a bend then the lower hinge.
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My body guy told me that my driver's side upper door hinge is bent and that is why the door can't be adjusted flush. Does anyone know where I can get a door hinge for my '87?
Thanks.
Upgrades - comments welcomed
in 1984-91 Avanti
Posted
Some of the upgrades that I've already make to my '87 Avanti include; Performance Suspension Stage IV kit, front frame bracket, 16x7 wheels and tires, drilled and slotted front brakes with two piston calipers, 2" drop spindles and a Cat-back 2 1/2" exhaust system.
I could use any recommendations for some of my next upgrades -
1.) Rear disc brakes - have 2 different systems available in 11", 12" or 13" rotors.
2.) Serpentine belt drive - GM Performance offers a complete bolt on system, it would also switch the alternator with the A/C compressor moving it to the passenger side of the engine. Would really clean up the engine compartment.
3.) Remove belt driven fan and install electric fan system - Current system makes alot of noise, would love to get the noise down to the gentle wind blowing by the window seals.
4.) Vintage Air heating and cooling system - I have never seen a bigger mess then the cobbled up heating and cooling system in this car. Well... the wiring comes close.