Stacey
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Posts posted by Stacey
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I guess #2. as the trucks back then could hold 8 cars.
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Even though Sun was a big name way back then I think it was a Stewart-Warner unit so #2 is my guess.
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Number 1. Knowing it was not going to heat up and lock up would be important to know. Just a guess.
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Thank you and the same to you and yours. Hope you have a fantastic and healthy up coming Year. Thanks for all you do for this forum.
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Only a guess, but 35 lbs so #2
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I think 25% that would make it about cost.
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Would hope they spent money in the local town so I guess South bend Exhaust.
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Now that is SLICK, love all the work your doing. It is going to be one special ride. Good Job!
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I used the word weld, but I think they did braze the halves back together. I do know they used a fine cutting blade and cut above the factory seam, not by much but just above. That way i could clean everything and not have areas left untouched. And if i blasted through a rust area, they could solder it up from the inside or outside if they wanted. Done correctly and they still looked almost factory, at least from the bottom of the car. Used to do many old motorcycle tanks too..
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When I had my stripping business some guys would want to keep an original gas tank so they rinsed it out, put water in it and used a die grinder to cut it in half. Brought the two pieces to me so i could use my really fine glass bead at low pressure to blast the tank clean, and if any rust holes found cleaned them up for repair. They then would weld the two halves back together and then seal the inside with a gas tank sealer. As i cleaned the exterior of the tank too, they then painted it so it looked brand new. Some vehicles were impossible to find a new replacement tank so this was an alternitive.
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By looking for a 1988 Chrysler lebarron conv rear 1/4 glass repair parts i found this:
Don't know if this will ork for your application, I had the same company repair my 1991 1/4 windows and they also said mine was a 1988 Chrysler lebarron conv part.
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The word was nicely done, sorry
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WOW, you have a Lot more talent than i do. Very licely done. Thanks for sharing
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8 hours ago, studegary said:
Keep in mind that the body on an '89 convertible is different from the body on a '91 convertible.
Great point, I didn't think of that but they are different
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They told me my 1991 conv 1/4 glass units were from a 1988 Chryser Lebarron conv. That may be true for your car too?
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My 91 conv was running hot last year. Had a bit of slight leak on one end of the radiator. Pulled it out and found lots of debris between the radiator and a/c condenser. Probably the cause of the running hot, but recored the radiator anyway. Now runs like it should.
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On 9/1/2008 at 6:13 PM, Gunslinger said:
According to John Hull's recent book, there were 53 Avanti's made from 2001-2004 using the TransAm platform. I would guess the majority were convertibles. I had read somewhere (which escapes me) that nearly all sales were for convertibles and Avanti Motors wasn't even buying non-convertible platforms from GM after a certain point. My '02 convertible is #20 of those 53...its assembly date was 12/01 according to the manufacturer's plate on the door jamb.
Three is the correct answer for the number of AVX's built. One coupe, one convertible and one T-top.
So this is now confusing, how many are actually out there built? Did someone other than the "factory" build the others or are there really only 3?
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9 hours ago, bob1940cab said:
Hello,
Any recommendation on cup holders to Add?. Anybody satisfied with aftermarket one they used. Saw nothing in search.
Suggestions. Bob in Montgomery Texas. Thanks
Sorry can't help with adding cup holders in the car, I don't allow any food or drinks in my Convertible. Don't even know where i could make somehting fit.
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Might not work on an Avanti, but when I owned the stripping shop ( blasted with plastic media or walniut shells and fine glass bead at low pressure).we used to unbolt the body from the frame of a full frame car. Lift the body straight up and took 2 inch black pipe cut 11 1/2 inches long and used 12 inch 1/2 inch bolts to run up through the black pipe. Stood the pipe up and then dropped the body back down to be hovering over the frame at each body bolt location. The bolts were run up tight and the body was one with the frame again. This did two things for us, gave us a rolling cart to move the body around the shop. Also allowed us to blast clean the complete frame and under body except the 2 inch pipe location. If this was going to be a real show restoration, we would then pull one pipe out at a time to clean that area. We did this on older Corvettes too but never an Avanti so don't know if it would work? I think it would. many of the shops that brought the vehicles to us didn't have enough room to keep the bosy and frames seperated, keeping them as one unit made it easier on everyone. Plus no tweaking of the body with out supporting structure.
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Soda blasting has its own set of issues, you must wash the soda dust that has impregnated the metal with soapy water to remove that film. Otherwise the overlay of primer/paint has no bond. Years ago they were using that method of blasting to remove the paints and primers from GM, Ford & Chrylser cars. I got to reblast hundreds of vehicles to stop the peeling paintand then be repainted. The orignal blasting prices the soda guys were charging was just a tad less than what I was charging. Once the cars had issues, they all (the soda blaster companies) closed up and disappeared.Soda blasting was originally set up as a grease removing system, it worked well for that.
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Sorry I missed you, just spent the month of Feb in Tucson at the KOA RV park sitting in the warm sun thinking I wish I had my Avanti Convertible down there with me...
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Plastic and walnut will remove the light surface rust, but not actually clean the metal to white clean rust free. I also used to use extremely fine glass bead at low pressure to totally remove the rust. Low pressure to us was 15 to 30psi being shot out of a 1/2 inch nozzel at high high volumn. It would kind of wash the substrait and not dig in or harm the surface material. I had a 800 cfm compressor that was able to run 4 blast hoses at once.
if your rust is light surface, using a abrasive pad of some type to remove the loose rust and then using a rust converter, navel Jelly type or POR-15 and then coating the metal would work without going through the expense of jacking the vehicle up high enough to gain a "shooting angle" and blasting the bottom. I'm in Arizona also and had thought of opening a blasting company like I had in Michigan, sure seems like there is a need for gentle cleaning of vehicles for those restoring them.
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How about calling the logistics company general phone number asking to talk to the person who is supposed to be working there? I would be questioning a lot before allowing one of my cars to leave my home without a pile of money on my table.
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You didn't put a maybe, depending on how it is constructed. I own a Tesla and would look but no firm answer to this survey question until more info is presented.
Avanti restoration for visual learners
in Avanti Pub
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Thanks for posting that, was enjoyable to watch, Nice Job!!