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mfg

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Posts posted by mfg

  1. 1 hour ago, 64studeavanti said:

    This is not a 4spd. Notice the yellow dipstick for the auto trans in the engine bay.

    On the other hand… if you look closely at the photo of the interior taken through the passenger side window, it sure looks like a four speed shifter boot screwed down onto the console….. INTERESTING!!!!!!

  2. 1 hour ago, 64studeavanti said:

    This is not a 4spd. Notice the yellow dipstick for the auto trans in the engine bay.

    ‘Ronny’s’ original question mentions “ four speed car”… which accounts for my comment, however, I now do indeed see the auto trans dipstick!……..

    Whether an Avanti has a four speed or automatic transmission probably wouldn’t be a game changer to me, but, in general, it  seems that R2 four speed models are a bit more sought after. (IMHO)

    (Seem my next two texts)

  3. Interesting Stude decided to make that 1563110 pulley out of aluminum… I imagine the excessive weight of that original cast iron pulley had something to do with it… That custom pulley I got from Thibeault weighs about 1/3 the weight of the iron part.

  4. 1 hour ago, 64studeavanti said:

    I have 2 63s and 2 64s with A/C. They all have the same heavy cast iron pulleys as R2.

    Strange thing, the aluminum pulley, 1563110, is listed in the December 63 parts catalog.

    I have R5408 and R5423. R5408 was completed December 2nd.

     

  5. 1 hour ago, 64studeavanti said:

    The R1 pulleys are the same as R2. The aluminum water pump pulley, 1563110 became available with an improved idle cooling kit announced in service letter R-1964-4, dated April 24, 

    I see…. I thought the aluminum water pump pulley was part of the A/C setup from the get go… Now I understand that it was introduced later on…Thanks!

  6. 34 minutes ago, 64studeavanti said:

    I figure I have about three weeks to get it into primer. I should have a couple of weeks to finish block sand.

    I will have help mounting the body. Mounting the body, hanging the doors, hood and trunk lid should only take a day or two.

    The heavy body work is done, all I need to do is skim and true up the filler. The Ultra Extra helps quite a bit as it gives me a much longer work time and sands very easily.

    Doors, hood and trunk lid are in pretty good shape, at least according to the guide coat. I plan on doing a "scuff and puff", no block sanding, in the engine bay and trunk as well as the back side of the hood and trunk lid.

    A lot of work but ultimately we’ll worth it I think!

    There’s something very special, after the fact, to know that you did it yourself!!

  7. 11 hours ago, Nelson said:

    A note on correct Avanti water pumps and how they differ from standard pumps. The tower on the Avanti pump is taller than a standard V8 pump, the bearing used in both pumps is the same. The position of the Avanti bearing is closer to the front of the car which is allowable due to the taller tower. The fan pulley mounting flange is pressed on the shaft almost to the top of the casting tower on the Avanti style and not nearly as far as with the standard V8. The distance from the fan flange mounting surface to the gasket surface is the same on both pumps. The water pump bearing have a front set of ball bearings and a rear set. The Avanti setup, with correct pump, all the belt load is distributed evenly between the front and rear bearing set. When using a standard V8 pump all the load is taken by the front set of bearing. The result is rapid bearing failure at the front of the pump.

    Above is a good description of the inner workings & differences between standard and Avanti specific Stude V8 water pumps.

    I’d mention that the fact an Avanti R1-R2 water pump pulley is made of cast iron always bothered me…TOO MUCH WEIGHT!!

    Years ago I installed an aftermarket aluminum pulley I obtained from Dave Thibeault…. I don’t really know if the water pump on my R2 ‘cares’ either way, but I sure feel better about it!!!

    Studebaker engineers may have been thinking about this, as I believe they made  the factory water pump pulley for an Avanti R1 (with A/C) out of aluminum.

  8. 3 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:

    As one of the Corvette Forum posters stated, "I will keep working it until my give a s... bucket is empty".

    I do have a deadline.  It is scheduled in the paint shop the middle of April. If I miss that date, it will be several months before I can get another. 

    I still have to complete body work, assemble the body (doors, hood, trunk), mount it back on the frame, prime, and block sand.

    Wish me lots of luck!

    This car was quite a mess. It supposedly had a "professional" paint job when I bought it 20 years ago. The driver door had a new skin over a destroyed frame. The hood had a hole cut in it that was improperly patched. The hood brace was installed on the driver side, the firewall was a disaster, evidence of lots of poor work done to the front fender, etc.

    I was able to source a different door and hood. and have been able to repair most of the shoddy body work.

     

    Wow! … you have about 4 1/2 weeks.. Any chance of getting some assistance?

  9. 2 hours ago, Skip Lackie said:

    Pretty sure the basic design is the same as they used on the 65-66 Lark-types with the Chevy 283.  Many of the parts might still be available.  Chevy used that system on many of their 60s-70s vehicles. It has a Z-bar that mounts to a bushing that is bolted to the side of the block.  I have a 78 El Camino with the same system.  Only the Z-bar itself is different on most cars.

    I can take a picture of the clutch linkage illustration in the 65-66 parts book if that would help.  I might be able to get a decent picture of the linkage on my 74 Avanti, but not till next weekend.

    Skip … I think you meant to put this info into ‘65-‘83 Avanti section… SBC into ‘63 Avanti.

  10. 25 minutes ago, paul shuffleburg said:

    Weight transfer???

    EXACTLY!!….For whatever reason Studebaker installed early ‘59-‘61 leaf springs in the ‘63 Lark ‘Standard’….

    This spring has a 20” front ‘leg’…..

    The’ ‘64 Commander utilized a leaf spring with a 20 1/2” front leg… Which accounts for a slightly longer wheelbase…..

    This 1/2” change improves down force or ‘planting’ of the rear tires… thereby improving traction and acceleration times.

     

     

  11. 50 minutes ago, Geoff said:

    At best I can apply general knowledge. Differences in traction bars, radius rods, an added Panhard bar / Watts link? Do their pinion angles vary?

    Does one model have a pinion snubber and the other doesn't?
    "Since the snubber tries to lift the car at this point, the rear differential is actually forced downward and improves rear traction."
    - https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/mopar-rear-leaf-springs-suspension-get-hooked-up/

    Sounds like a piece I'd love to fabramacate on my future 1025 modded-dupe … along with some Super Stock Dart leaf packs.

    Everything you mention would indeed aid acceleration/handling, however, consider all those things to be the same between these two Studebaker models.

    BIG HINT!!….. wheelbase

  12. 9 hours ago, Geoff said:

    I'll yield to someone who knows these cars, as I haven't dug into the 'Lark lineage' much.

    I understand.. a person would REALLY have to know the Lark type chassis layout inside out to get this one…. I myself learned this basic difference “ the hard way”!!

  13. 6 minutes ago, Geoff said:

    Acceleration contest. Which test are we running? [0-60, 1/4 mile, 1 mile, V-max]

    I don't know the inner and under workings of these specific cars. My guesses are:
    Weight bias.
    Suspension geometry.
    Aerodynamics.

    You’re on the right track with your #2 guess!

    Now…. what would be different between the two’s suspension?

    PS… Not that it matters, but let’s call it a 1/4 mile drag race!

  14. Assuming the same engine, (R2?), transmission, tires, rear end ratio, driver, weight,  etc…. Why would a ‘63 Studebaker Lark Standard 2 dr sedan have an advantage in an acceleration contest over a ‘64 Studebaker Commander 2 dr sedan?

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