Jump to content

mfg

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    12,293
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mfg

  1. On 7/17/2023 at 9:21 AM, mfg said:

    Unfortunately, when replacing a damaged Stude Avanti frame with a good used 6cyl Lark Convertible frame, the holes for the V8 front engine mount brackets need to all be re-drilled.....True?

    ANSWER.....False!!.....  (Been there...Done that!)

     

     

  2. 9 hours ago, Rick Allen said:

    Is this on the oil pan itself?  A picture would help a lot,,,

    Nope, it's at bottom center of bellhousing, around 6 inches to rear of oil pan drain plug.

  3. 1 hour ago, ronmanfredi said:

    On my 82 model, the offset holes are already positioned for maximum + Camber.

     

    A bit unusual...

    Your upper & lower control arm bushings are all in good shape..could there have been earlier accident damage on this Avanti?... Bent suspension part?

     

     

  4. Sounds like it may be the 1" opening (hole) at bottom center of the torque converter housing provided to access the torque converter drain plug.

  5. As most know, the two Avanti upper control arm's inner shaft holes are factory drilled off center...The shaft can be flipped over to gain (or lose) about one degree of camber....Probably worth a try before you start slotting the frame holes.

  6.  If you want to temove the p/s system, a manual steering pitman arm and drag link can replace the p/s pitman arm and control valve.. ...Certain manual steering Stude Lark parts will bolt right on. But I'm not sure which years....Disconnect the slave cylinder at same time.

    Only issue would be the 16-1 ratio steering box compared to the 22-1  factory Avanti manual steering box.  (although the 16-1 box was offered by Stude as a 'fast ratio' manual steering option in Avantis.... also, the 'donor' Lark would need to be equipped with a Ross steering box)

     

    .)

     

  7. 1 hour ago, Bill Hanlon said:

    I agree but requires a potential car to be repainted. 

    Sometimes that's true.....My '83 had a decent paint job when I closed in the moonroof...I made up my own composite headliner..and blended the paint on the sail panels.

  8. If the spokes really are breaking away from rim core, you may be able to cut away 'just enough' wood grain plastic from back side of wheel, at the spoke-rim joint, then mig weld spokes to metal rim core, then fill in rear area with fiberglass, or even body filler.

     

  9. I'd try forcing clear fiberglass resin into the cracks...after carefully masking off wheel spokes, and all but the cracked area of plastic wood grain wheel rim.

    If the spokes are actually breaking away from the metal rim core...there is no easy fix for that.

  10. On 7/2/2023 at 12:45 PM, brad said:

    Often a poor ground on the switch will mess with proper wiper operation. Check by clipping a ground jumper wier from the switch case to a known good ground. Then if it doesn't still work try adjusting the park position tab on the wiper motor itself.

    Will try the temp ground wire idea.

  11. 12 hours ago, brad said:

    " Up to a point when the tips of the impeller reach speeds where there are shockwaves, the boost stops. (The tips can actually break the sound barrier)."

     Answer....FALSE!.....and Brad said it better than I could!

    .

     

×
×
  • Create New...