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Yes!… the protective cable housing is one! Two more …..?

Hi, John, saw that sale. The black one was Serial #1019. The only storage in the 4-door is the center and rear consoles. Good luck with and hope you enjoy your new toy. Richard #1078

I can name one: On '64s the PW wiring from the door to the door jam was protected by a steel housing. On '63s the wiring was just wrapped in tape. Some time in Avanti II production the inner door panel was reinforced by double fiberglass. --Dwight

My 89 Avanti Removed old tired 305 and replaced with a mildly built 350

Can anyone name three flaws in ‘early’ Stude Avanti power window systems which Studebaker identified and corrected later during the Avanti production run?

Come to think of it, the torque converter itself must have been reworked with the welded on Studebaker engine flex plate replaced by a flex plate (ring gear) compatible with the Chevrolet engines.

Not exactly related, but I agree with the questionable quality of new production starter bendix assemblies…. I recently went to the trouble of replacing the starter bendix assy on a ‘49 Stude Champion, and ended up having to do the job twice! ……Although the starter would spin properly, the new bendix would not ‘throw out’ into the flywheel teeth… The starter would just spin…. The second bendix replacement seems to be working OK.

Please "REPLY TO THIS TOPIC" below with photos of your 1987-1991 Avanti! You can "drag and drop" or "select file" to add your photo(s)

The starter for a Stude mounts to the bellhousing, not the engine block like a GM does. The shim is used to space the starter away from the block to adjust the bendix gear to flywheel clearance on the GM starter. One could put washers between the starter and the transmission engine plate but all that would do is pull the starter out of the bell housing, which wouldn't make any difference. His problem is with a bad bendix gear (old and cheap new), a now common problem to the point that Jon Meyer has written articles about this.

Starters sometimes require shims to be lined up for proper engagement. That may be the problem.

It happened again. Same exact issue. Car ran fine for 3 weeks, then, bam. The engine turns over just fine. Doesn't sound labored or anything. I'd question my own installation, but it doesn't seem too difficult, and I'd question myself if it happened on the first cranks. Any suggestions? Obviously I won't be going to the same shop. Ugh.

I just acquired #1020, a white 1990 4-dr in good condition. It lived with its original owner and a black sister car, likely a close VIN, since they were purchased at the same [yes, his-n-hers]. I did not acquire this black one. Question: neither has a glove box of any kind. Is this a common lack among the 4 drs.? Oregon John Eugene, OR

The parking brake switch could be faulty, or out of adjustment… or wire may have bad contact at proportioning valve.

A ‘64 Studebaker Avanti was displayed there, then the ‘68 Avanti ll was next in line.

Good, because there was only one guess remaining. So '62 and '66?

Four is the number!

The brake light on the dash between the speedometer and tac has decided to come on. Reservoir is full. Brake pedal good. Is there a sensor on the proportioning valve or maybe a bad switch on the emergency brake handle? Thanks, Mike

Would aluminum foil work as well?

Four

Yes!…Good thinking!!

Brake fluid…equivalent to today’s DOT 3.

No ideas on this? (easy one!)

Not three Dwight!

Three

Sorry no, not five!