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Well, you’ve got the right model Stude, but not the right year….. Any other thoughts???…… Had to be between (and including) the ‘56 to ‘64 model years!

Anyone want to take a shot at what the last South Bend assembled passenger car was?

On the 61 Hawks? They even had dash plaques that touted them as "Gran Turismo" limited edition. James Mason, a British actor posed in the ad.

Dear Dwight, can you please give your address to Jim? / Many thanks, Paul

Hello Dwight, have you spoken to Jim? I will ask Jim to return the booster to your address in case the core isn’t useable, okay? Upon receipt you can refund me the $100 minus the costs for shipping the booster to SI. / Paul

OK, I got my hoses routed with maximum ground clearance. So, back to the first problem of no assist. I disconnected the ram from the idler arm and had an assistant turn the steering wheel lock to lock. The ram does not extend or retract until the wheels are turned all the way to the max in either direction. The control valve adjusting nut is set correctly. So do I most likely have a bad control valve or ram? I have a new pump as well.

Google is your friend ( most of the time) A 1981 305 SBC (Small Block Chevy) engine that was part of an original equipment system uses a 2-wire, non-heated oxygen (O2) sensor. The 1981 model year generally utilized an early, single-wire or two-wire narrow-band O2 sensor design. Recommended Parts You can find suitable replacement parts using these references: AC Delco (OE Style): Original Parts Group lists an OE style 2-wire sensor, part number L980047, which is a direct fit for 1980-81 GM vehicles with a 305 engine. Bosch (Universal/OE Type): Bosch offers both universal and specific fit options. The OE replacement parts typically have a 2-wire lead configuration for this model year. Bosch Oxygen Sensor: 2 Wire, 12.48" Long, Non-heated, Exact Fit Part # 12028

I have an '81 Avanti II with the dreaded Computer Controlled Carb/ignition/TC lockup controls. I expect the Oxygen sensor is probably stonkered given its age and thought I'd better research a replacement. This is proving more daunting than I thought. To cut to the chase... Does anybody have any knowledge of a direct replacement for the two-wire O2 Sensor on these cars?

You are CORRECT! Does anyone out there know when Studebaker DID use this phrase?… and on what model?

Sorry Dwight, the answer to this one is FALSE!

Thank you very much. That is very helpful.

Yes, true.

False. I was there and I don't recall hearing that advertising line. --Dwight, powered by Studebaker

Here are a bunch of notes that will help. The Manual routing is in there also http://studebaker-info.org/rjtechjan2023p1.html#bps

I cannot seem to get my power steering hoses high enough off the ground to prevent them from scraping! The need enough flex to allow the control valve to move end to end, but they still hang dangerously close to the ground. Is the picture or template to show how to properly attach them to the frame?

I suggest that you contact Jon Myer. 740-674-4897. He is located in Duncan Falls Ohio and has Avanti Parts cars, and a plethora of Studebaker/Avanti parts

Here's the Shop Manual section. It shows what you need.. http://studebaker-info.org/Avanti/ASM/avantishopclimatizer/avantishopclimatizer.html

In the fall of 1963, Studebaker advertised their ‘64 Avanti as “America’s Only Classic Touring Coupe”….. True?

The 1964 Studebaker Daytona Avanti R1 powered Hardtop, now located at the Studebaker National Museum, is the last passenger car to be completed in South Bend….. True ?

Everything under the dash! Heater core, housing, fan motor… The previous owner blocked off the hose connectors at the engine and removed all the pieces under the dash - because of terminal rust

Mystery solved… Nice!

Great to hear. Enjoy the car and lots of smiles to the mile! 👍

Ed George only has the R5 pistons in his R3 engine. Greg has the original R5 and had a section of the pan rail welded when it had damage. I supplied R3 pistons to Mr. Cone when the originals were long gone. The R5 piston is essentially a regular R3 Forged True but, the crown is angle machined for slightly lower compression. Necessary with two higher output superchargers. The specially stressed blowers would last approximately one run. (7 miles)

Problem solved! The driveshaft was junk! I took it to Stan's Driveline in Gulfport, MS. The driveshaft was 1 1/2 inches too short so it was barely going into the transmission spline. The yoke ends were 90 degrees offset from each other. The shaft had two bad dents in it. The transmission yoke was bad and the snap rings for the Ujoint were almost coming out! They made a new longer tube, welded in a new front yoke, replaced the ujoints with Spicer joints and balanced it. The car drives smooth as silk! I took it up to 90mph and no vibration at all!! Thanks to everyone with their input to this matter.

What are you all missing?