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Hope this helps

Working on a 63 started but not completed by someone else. I found the wire loom for the rear of the car laying above the fuel tank with no connector just cut wires. I found a connector under the dash withe the same wire colors. From the tank enclosure where did the wire loom exit and where would it have entered into the dash cavity to connect to the rest of the wire loom. My signal switch and horn wires exit the steering column with bullet connectors on each wire with no corresponding connectors for them to connect to. There is a unused 6 prong connector with similar but not exact color wires. was there a missing connector that mated these two together? Thanks for any information. Pictures of your wire looms would be appreciated

I do kind of like the added visibility of two rear signal lights blinking instead of just one. The problem is, you can have all the visibility in the world and it won’t protect you from impaired drivers or the people staring at their phones. Safe driving! Mike

I saw one setup of the four red lenses but the owner kept the original backup bulbs in place and wired them in to the brake lights. Running down the road had only the side lenses lit but all four lit when braking. More contrast from two to four bulbs. I thought it was an interesting take. I have the third light in the center on the back deck. The metallic lining behind the lenses inside the front and rear lamp holders had disintegrated. I bought some mirrors at a crafts store, a package of 1/2" and 1" squares as I recall, and (silicon) glued them on the backs, sides, tops and bottoms of all four lamp holders. That and the third light has me lit up pretty well. Good luck.

Just my two cents for Avanti II's up to 1985, mind... 🫠.. Avanti II's front seats went to high-backed seats in 1970 and departed from the original Studebaker design. I believe the later seats were Recaro's and by all accounts, a definite comfort and safety improvement. Catalytic converters were introduced in 1975 which resulted in a departure from a true dual exhaust system; this may or may not be of issue to you because I know some owners will remove these if they are allowed to. I have removed this Cat system and installed a dual. Studebaker Frames were made of thicker metal in the 'Hat Sections'- meant for V8's, but resorted to utilizing left over 6 cylinder Frames of thinner material from RQB2596 in 1977- probably not a big issue in reality, but you have a choice I suppose. Chevy engines have their advantages- although in 1981 they went to a computerised engine control system and as such have an electronically controlled Carburetor, Distributor, and lockup Torque convertor for the TH350C. All these can be eliminated or gotten around if you are allowed to do so where you live- manual lockup switches/kits are often utilised for instance. I have an 1981 model (RQB3269) and given the knowledge I've mentioned here, I may well have chosen an earlier model If I knew then what I know now. Later 1981 models from mine had Automatic Overdrive transmissions- a worthy advantage in my opinion and a definite improvement over the venerable old Borg Warners. Finally- I believe the build quality of Avanti II's as a whole were very good and they continued to evolve throughout their lineage. I have absolutely no qualms with the original Studeys, but reckon the II's are an inherently better build and a lot cheaper to buy, and a lot more to choose from. I suppose it depends on whether you want to have your car wear a 'Studebaker' script or can live without it.

It's in good hands, 64Avanti. Appreciate You.

Sad to see it go.

I met a couple from Canada at the AOAI meet who had a R2 that he converted the engine to a R3. He ran a 3.5" flex intake hose thru a hole he cut in the fender and then up to in front of the radiator and installed a standard cold air intake filter. He told me that he had a noticeable power increase and reduced carb problems in hot weather. So, I just removed my very nice stock chrome air cleaner and ordered some black PCV coated 3.5" flex hose to do the same thing except I'm going to try and keep the hose in the engine compartment until it gets to the headlight area and run it to the same location that he did. I've added a custom A/C to the car, so there are also refrigerant hoses going in that area as well. The car didn't come with a grille, so servicing the filter won't be a problem. If I decide to add one, then I'll make it as easy as possible to remove.

Nice work !!

This is how i did my combination reverse/ stop/turn signals. I kept the original clear lenses, and fabricated new sockets and bases to accept 1157 bulbs. I use led "switchback" bulbs; these have 2 circuits one red and one white. The original reverse circuit is connected to the white contact. and new circuits are created to connect right, and left brake ant turn signals. If you would prefer them to operate only for stop (no turn signal on trunk fixture) then you would create a circuit from the brake light switch, before the turn signal as you would for a third brake light. All lamps on RQA0348 have been changed to LED, so an electronic flasher is also installed. These bulbs are very bright and require very little amperage to run.

I think you have a 1964 R2 air cleaner that is simply rotated wrong. I have a very nice proper '63 R2 complete air cleaner that is for sale or trade for your unit. Let me know. My email is ahpieper1952@gmail.com. Thanks, Andy

I had my 1964 oem AM radio converted to 4 speaker am/fm with blu tooth and an add-on for Smart Phone adjustment controls. Gary Taymon Radio in Florida did the work and I'm very pleased. I had procured a new am/fm face lens and sent that to be installed also. It also has a cable for an external USB flash drive that you can download onto or make your personal play list and play through the radio. Looks completely stock. Expensive but still a deal. Pricing was at the time 2 years ago approximately $550.00. I could've cheaped out, but I went for all the available goodies. Hemmings Motor News lists at least a dozen radio companies in Services Offered in the front of the magazine.

Looks great Mike!

I did that with mine. Got the replacement lenses from Nostalgic. Also replaced bulbs with LEDs. Backup lights are way better. Mike

I converted the backup lights on my ‘64 to stop lights using the later red lenses. It worked OK, certainly better than simply relying on the stock tail lights, but frankly not nearly as ‘seeable’ as a third brake light…. maybe that’s because the third brake light is higher, and more in line with the vision of the driver in the following car. PS… my ‘85 Avanti has the back up’s changed to stop lights (done at the Avanti factory).. really not as effective as a third stop light in rear window!

You can convert the back up lights with red lenses and tie those wires into your existing lights. I'll be doing that with mine, plus changing out the bulb holder for a dual element bulb. I always change the bulbs to LED also since they are so much brighter. You will need to replace the turn signal flasher with one that has a Separate Ground wire attached to it. United Pacific makes one that I used on my 82 and worked perfect. Then you'll need to install some back up lights under the bumper. I've seen some 67 Mustang back up lights installed and they look good.

Le panneau peut être coincé. Retirez les vis du commutateur pour vous assurer qu'elles ne sont pas le problème, puis essayez de le retirer. Vous devrez peut-être faire levier sur le panneau à l'endroit où se trouvent les 2 vis.

1963-64 all Studebaker, most parts available, highest price for car in good condition 1966-1985 Chevy small block engines, GM Automatics, Dana Rear Ends. Avanti frame, suspension 1987-1988 Chevy Monte Carlo with Avanti body and dash 1989-1991 Chevy Caprice with Avanti body and dash. 1963-1985 models use 1955 Studebaker frame with kingpin front suspension. 1987-1991 models use Chevy frames and modern ball joint front suspension.

Hi Rick… LED’s are no doubt a very good idea, and no, I haven’t installed them yet. (but I probably will)…. But getting back to that third brake light, let me tell you a story that happened to me many years ago…. At the time I owned a red 1964 Avanti….red tail lights against a red body really makes matters worse…. but anyway, after I stepped on my brakes and signaled a right turn, the fellow behind me pulled in just to tell me that he almost drove into the back of my Avanti, and I should fix my brake lights! (the lights weren’t broken) He was very nice about it, however at that point I installed a very bright third brake light….It’s not obtrusive, and safety and keeping my car and myself in one piece is much more important to me than any authenticity concerns!…. Thank You, Ed.

Have you considered going to LED bulbs in your factory tail/brake light housing? They are very bright compared to the old-style bulbs, adding a 3rd brake light I think would look out of place and to some people gaudy but to others, not,,,

Probably close to the very top of ‘must do’ items related to driving in modern traffic….. Studebaker Avanti tail lights are simply too small to be clearly noticed by other drivers…. who are probably driving too fast or on their cell phones anyway!…. A bright third brake light dead center at the bottom of the rear window is an excellent idea…I added one to my own ‘63 Avanti twenty years ago. PS….. I suppose a third brake light installed at the interior TOP of the rear window would work just as well.

That's what I figured, thank you,,,

Has anyone added any additional brake lights? I want something subtle when not lit up, but something really obvious to the idiots behind me when I'm stopping.

I found a modern voltage regulator my dad installed when he updated to electronic ignition- he hid as much as he could from the Originality Judges. Then I read and reread the article about putting the modern japanese alternator in and bypassing the voltage regulator all together. I did that, and now it runs beautifully. I'm happy with the 55 amps because the electric fan really pulls electricity. I've run new 8 awg wire with 60 amp fuse directly from atl. to the battery because that original wire is looking tiny and brittle. Now to figure out why no interior lights, although the backup lights work.