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Hello Stefan, I have had the same issue with several cars. Gaskets never seem to do any good no matter how thick they are. The reason is the heat is transfered directly through the mounting studs to the carb. Until you isolate those it will continue to percolate. The best solution I have found is to mount a 3-4 PSI pump near the tank, and run it when the ignition is on. I have an R2, a 62 fuel injected Corvette, a 32 Chevy and a 96 Sea Ray boat I'm doing this with now with no issues. Best of luck, John C.

The 7 pin round plug is for speaker amp to connect to the radio. There are 4 positive speaker wires, 1 ground, 12V and switched 12V. The amp takes the 4 speaker signal wires and the single ground input and sends out a pair of wires for each speaker with a + and - for each speaker. (strange set up if you ask me). The radio also had a wire remote option, so I'm guessing that is what the board may be for?

I have a service manual for that unit, but can not post on this forum for some reason. If you need it, PM me and I can email you a PDF copy. Bill

Thank you, the picture really helps.

Okay, ill be careful

We may be talking about different items. I've attached a picture of the PCB that sits on the radio...apologies for the poor quality, but my cheap flip phone has a cheap camera.. Anyway, I did a continuity tests between 3 of the speaker wire connectors (Becker 2pin DIN) and the each of the 9 pins on the connector to the "amp". I got nothing. I would expect an external amp to be connected to the AUX output (round 7 pin connection plug) and that had no connection. So I am still curious as to what it is for (on my system)

While the door panels are easy to remove and put back on, repeated re-screwing can make the connection into the fibreglass loose. After much work on my doors (and some stripping of the fibreglass interior door panels) , I ended up enlarging the holes, squaring out the circle and placing plastic (locking) inserts that would accept the screws. This made the panel more secure against the door

Thanks Gunslinger

Call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors. He was an Avanti dealer through the Blake era. If he doesn’t have a NOS cap in stock he’ll know what car it came from.

This was some years back…but I saw a R3 intake on the shelf at Myer’s Studebaker in Ohio. I’ve no idea if it’s still there…Jon Myer had a number of R3 engines on stands as well.

Buying

Thanks guys. I just wasn’t sure where to start. My car looks like an amalgamation of parts. Ignition switch (and key) look to be of Chrysler heritage. Engine/Trans is GM. Frame is Studebaker! It’s interesting!

The carb number on my 1980 350 is 17080204. It's not computer controlled, thank goodness. It should be perfect for your '81

Thanks Dwight, will try and lube up the door cylinder. Maybe it will start working.. Yes I have a friend with a mobile locksmith business..

Normally, you should have TWO keys, one for the ignition & doors, and another for the console & glove box. That's how Studebaker did it, and your car is a '70, so should be the same. Many times the ignition switch fails and is replaced. That's how a car becomes a three-key car. The door panels can be removed easily. Perhaps a locksmith can reset the door lock cylinders to match the ign key. Or, at least, he can make a key for the door locks. May have to look online these days for locksmith services. --Dwight

It's mounted in the engine compartment on the fender well in the typical place. Much easier to install there than next to condenser

Read that I should have three seperate keys , door, console and ignition. I only have the ignition key.. Wondering if the door cylinder tumblers can be reset to accept the ignition key. Had this done on my 63 Comet convertble. "I know a guy"... is door panel removal pretty straightforward..? Working on my 70 rqa0387. TIA

Sold $39750!

The radio puts out a low-level speaker signal to the amp. The amp boosts the signal to the speakers. You need the amp to get any sound.

Call Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors...he probably has a NOS switch to sell.

will do. Thanks

Agreed…. Or auto graveyard!

I know that Chrysler products of the late seventies used the exact same switch… but I really can’t remember which model… I purchased one for my ‘63 Avanti at a Dodge dealership around 1990. Look at pics of Mopar units on line and see if you can match yours up.

I'm looking for a replacement turn signal switch that goes in the steering column of my 1963 Avanti. Specifically, I need one of the sliding tabs that makes an electrical connection when the turn signal lever is engaged. I understand they are no longer produced. Anyone have a lead on where I can find a new or used one? Thanks

I'm pretty sure it's a GM screw in cap. Any auto parts store should be able to supply a cap.