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I have a green wire with black tracer that I had bagged years ago when I took the car apart. I wrote on bag, goes from starter solenoid across fire wall and for whatever reason I didn't say where it went. It's a lot longer than needed to go to coil. I wrapped it around the harness along the run. I don't like how it looks if it does go to coil. I think maybe when I was taking the car apart, I wasn't concerned as everything is in a harness. It's a factory wire as it has the 90 degree push on terminal for the solenoid. The other end has an open connector. My R2 doesn't have it. I have seen on a few cars on BAT the wire but can't see where it goes. No mention in shop manual of it. I was thinking maybe it would go to coil, bypassing the resistor for start-up but don't want to assume that. That would only be possible if That terminal on solenoid is momentary, energized when key is in start position. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks

Getting ready to drop my dash back in and though I was going to keep original radio in it, I thought last night of changing it out. I don't want to go crazy as car is not going to be a daily driver but it would be nice to be able to listen to something other than talk radio over static. Any suggestions on make, model #. I'm not going to install anything that would require modifying the dash. Also speakers that mate up to existing mounting holes. Thanks

Ron... Sounds like Your buying them right and bringing them back.

Looks to be a real nice Stude! Auto or four speed? Very reasonable price I think.

I installed Flowmaster cast iron ramhorns headers on my sbc conversion in my 63, very good quality and fit, not cheap, I first ordered a welded tube type ramhorn quality was horrible had to return. Guy.

Thank-you. Does anyone know what psi I should be seeing to the ram?

Yes, that’s it!…..R5642 has the red interior.

It could be either, assuming that you followed the system bleeding process? With the engine running, turn the steering wheel lock to lock a dozen times to get the air out of the system. The only way that I know to diagnose the cause is to install a pressure gauge in the ram hoses to see what's happening. Other than that, it's a guessing game.

Minor increased tire width doesn't affect alignment settings. If it has power steering, then you want as much positive caster as possible and zero-1/2 positive camber. 1/4" toe in is preferrable.

I'm about to complete a "save" restoration on a 1989 Conv with a musician history. It's going up for sale in January to someone who wants that year model car in great condition. Meanwhile, I just bought a 63 R2 in Black that has been going through a full restoration for several years for $15K. The owners age and health have made him decide to sell it to someone who can take it the rest of the way, and that's me.

Thank you for the information!

But, one should not put radial tires on the original thin, 15x5 wheels. Most use 15x6 or 15x6.5 Ford wheels with radials. (There are other options.) --Dwight

"So what if You took 2 ea. of the $3600 examples and made 1. Is that sensible? You'll likely still need to buy parts and then labor needs considered." This makes sense only if one of the Avantis is missing some major parts, like seats, engine, etc. More typically, these project Avantis are more or less complete, but need the same things: engine work, upholstery, brakes, exhaust, suspension, hog troughs, etc. They've all been the victim of "deferred maintenance." I am currently doing these repairs to R-4228 (R1, AT, PS, AC - a desirable combination) and it is a seemingly endless task list. When I get it to the point of being a car that someone will want to drive (reliable, safe) I'll sell it (for a loss) to someone who will take the car the rest of the way. My justification: I will have "saved" an Avanti. I have two other Studebakers ('64 Avanti R3 & '56 Golden Hawk) currently underway, so time is short for working on R-4228. --Dwight, powered by Studebaker

Original. Lescoa made Ash Trays etc for Chrysler also like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/127534753074

Nelson... Agree it's usually a financial decision, and I'm seeing the values increase on the '63-4' models...(can't speak for the other models,(cept '01'-'07) since I don't follow them). A completed and very good car in that time range can bring $30-40k depending on condition and options (The R2 bringing more). These prices bring the Avanti into a sensible range to consider resto'ing if the subject isn't too far gone. So what if You took 2 ea. of the $3600 examples and made 1. Is that sensible? You'll likely still need to buy parts and then labor needs considered. Mine, I bought a fine example of a '63' R2. I paid $17k w/ shipping .. It needs some small things, but I consider it worth $35k. To me, this is a ''Keeper'' but there's room on the top if I ever decided to sell off. But others here are not interested in all of the math and spend due to their Love of the vehicle. I guess that's a personal choice but I can't do that. If I did, (as said in multiple) I couldn't afford to be a collector. But we ''Road On!''

I don’t know where you are located but you might try Keith Graham in Apache Junction, Arizona. He has an Avanti he is parting out.

I would think they would be the same especially if you use original wheels. Measurement from the ground to the center of the spindle should be pretty close to whatever the original was.

I use to remember those last two cars. Both were R3’s, both automatics both white but I think one had a black interior the other red?

My compliments SCPO-PD, you are doing a great job ! Great photos . On my own Avanti II, found the little bellows/seal where the brake pedal plunger goes through the Firewall to be hard and decided t replace it, seeing I'm eventually painting the firewall. You're lucky... I can't get the windscreen washer bottle off the top of the firewall.

I see Avantis that I think are solid restoration projects at give away prices. The reason these don’t sell is they are typically considered a money pit. There are salvageable Avantis for $3500 and the same condition mid sixties Corvette might be $20 to 25k. Maybe if Avanti values go up many more will be saved as there is some justification to spend the money to restore them.

Wow!…. PINK springs, brake calipers, and inner shafts… VERY COOL!!

Zedman - MUCH Thanks !!! Sorry for the long delay in responding. I finally got them ordered last week and they should be in today so says my email!!! I have been working to get the engine compartment work done and front suspension rebuilt. Working on getting things put back together so that I can gen the new engine and rebuilt transmission back in....

As assembled at Studebaker, what was the major visual difference between Avantis R5642 and R5643? 1) engine type….. 2) interior color….3) exterior color….or….4) no major visual differences.

The original wheel alignment settings where given with the original tires. I think that wide (like 215/70 R15) tires need different alignment settings. or do I keep same alignments like its written in the original Shop manual? Do you have any experiences?

OK, I got my hoses routed with maximum ground clearance. So, back to the first problem of no assist. I disconnected the ram from the idler arm and had an assistant turn the steering wheel lock to lock. The ram does not extend or retract until the wheels are turned all the way to the max in either direction. The control valve adjusting nut is set correctly. So do I most likely have a bad control valve or ram? I have a new pump as well.