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It seems like a convoluted way to increase membership and raise revenue. Why not just raise the membership fee by $10-15? What is the number of current members? The 2 widows that joined to sell their cars aren’t likely, in my opinion, to renew their membership. Anyone who joins to sell a car would be selling into the focused group who are probably already members, so the new owner would not be a new member, and the seller might not renew after the sale. I’ve seen Avantis that are for sale on Hemmings, Classic.com, and numerous other sites for months. That’s a good indicator that the price is too high. I can’t be certain but it’s likely that those sites get much more traffic that this site, particularly the For Sale section. I’m not trying to be your rain cloud. It just seems that if an effort is going to be made to achieve your stated goal, we might see more productive results by informing non-member owners of the benefits of membership through direct contact, as you’ve done, or by attending car shows and approaching Avanti owners to ask if they are members. That is also a lot of work, but if we can get as many members as possible to take some of those steps we could increase the membership numbers. That’s would provide a steady flow of revenue as long as those members renew each year. Revenue from ad placement on the other hand would be variable.

In 1972, 1963 Stude Avanti # 63R1319 (R2) was advertised for sale… That Avanti had an unusual feature… What was that ? 1) One high backed front bucket Seat 2) Dropped front suspension spindles 3) A three speed o/d transmission or….4) Factory delete chrome ornaments on hood & earmuffs

So after you purchased the R4 dual quad setup…. How much $$$ did Stu-V charge you for the special air cleaner assy to go with it? 1) $18.50…..2) $25…..3) $37.25….or…..4) $45

Dwight strikes again!… Well done!

Good guess… you’re close!!

That’s the answer!… Do you happen to have any other info on this?

Glad that worked for you… but not the answer here!

That may work… however, as I mentioned to Gunslinger, this remedy is a bit easier. (no pricey parts to purchase)

Not really looking to ‘massage’ the frame here… Something much simpler!

If the engine bay is that bad what does the frame look like?

Check your boot is sealing properly.

If your car is like my 63 with an auto trans, the bell housing isn't completely sealed at the bottom and those pieces could drop through the gaps to the floor.

We currently have single to muti-year AOAI memberships available. With those, you can sell your car in the AOAI magazine or use the forum section without additional costs. For those who are not members, they can place an ad only in the magazine with a photo for around $45. The benefit to offering a car to AOAI members through these methods is that most cars actually sell to a member or someone that they know (a focused buyer group). If we offered a membership that is focused on car sales then that creates additional income for AOAI. As a member, the individual or business, has the option to use the website and forums also. For the seller the main benefit is to put their car in front of a focused group. There are cars that are for sale on Facebook for several months that I watch regularly. Had they been easily seen by AOAI members, there is a strong chance that the car would sell much faster. Development of this process would be slow and take quite a bit of time and effort, yet if it worked then both AOAI, buyers and sellers would benefit. This could also give us the new car owners to contact for new memberships.

Gravity.

👋 I just had my starter motor rebuilt. Ran it daily for about three weeks and today -- a nasty sound while cranking it. I look below and I see these three bits laying on the garage floor. I remove the starter, and yup. Problem identified. My question: how did these three shard end up on the floor? The starter was fully attached. Is there a natural way that they could have got thrown free? Or should I worry more? Thanks.

I recently installed 51r in mine, was able to use factory mounting points, I made a bracket for across the top out of aluminum it has abit of a twist at the end to accept the hooked end of the hold down which angles down to factory reinforced hole in fender. Other than having to turn a few more threads on factory verticle hold down post no modification to car is needed. I plan on shrink tube wrapping cross bracket and notching near positive post.

I have a 63 with SBC, had to dimple oil pan to clear bell crank. Not much clearance even so, 4 or 5 mm

Brad - Please forgive my ignorance but can you please give a little detail on this as I am struggling to "find" Neutral on the floor shift on RQB3616 in order to get the shift linkage properly aligned. The position that I think is Neutral does not allow me to shift to D2 or D3....

I’m not following how a section listing cars for sale might bring in new members. Realistically, membership is going to be limited by the number of current or previous Avanti owners and that isn’t a huge number. It is after all an Avanti Owners Association. I was a member of what was once called the Family Motor Coach Association. It used to be an exclusive association of Motor Coach owners, as the name implies. Well, exclusive became insensitive, so the leaders decided to allow owners of towable RV’s join. The back story is that membership was declining because it’s mosly old codgers who own Motorhomes. I suggested they change the name to the Family RV Association, but they opted to make it just FMCA. Probably saved a fortune on stationary. I also tried to join a Sunbeam Tiger Association to gain more information about the car, but apparently you have to actually own one to join. That must be a pretty small group.

I read somewhere where an owner replaced the end of the ram with a heim joint. Since I just lowered the engine in my 63, I'm sure I'm about to run into the same problem when I reinstall the bell crank and pivot.

I like your bracket, but I notice that the positive battery terminal is awfully close to the aluminum bracket. If the positive battery clamp (cable end) were to touch the aluminum bracket then the bracket would be hot. The bracket may not touch ground anywhere, but I still wouldn't want that bracket to be hot for safety reasons. One solution would be to use a type 51 (not 51R) battery. That would reverse the terminals, and the positive terminal would be to the front of the car and far away from the aluminum bracket. The positive battery cable would have to be longer, however (& the neg. cable could be shorter). --Dwight

50

$175

I’ve seen Avanti frames with the front cross member dented in…so I’m saying it was acceptable to hammer the cross member in the right spot to make clearance. Using a higher engine mount would cause interference with the hood so the alternative is to put a dent in the cross member.

S I should have that cable & handle