Jump to content


AOAI Forum Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by brad

  1. Yes, be careful of the mechanism when you unbolt the motor! it is under heavy spring tension!
  2. The original switches and wiring was something like 8 wires through the door. Later on there were only 2 wires on the motor and the switches were somewhat simplified. The early to mid 80s they used the more common and robust Chrysler motors . For switches and wiring I love the Nu-Relics Ford kits that are almost an exact match for the early Avanti ones. If you want the later look they also have that. They even have if you want them in the console or on the doors. https://www.nu-relics.com/category-s/545.htm https://www.nu-relics.com/product-p/217.htm
  3. I searched Oreilys auto parts for an 85 Jeep Cherokee....not $400 how does $65 sound? Don't settle for some lame price because they're an "expert" .
  4. You can check the tach head separately from the sending unit to find out which is not working. Connect a 9 volt transistor battery across the tach terminals. If the meter is good, it will deflect fully.
  5. brad

    Avanti 'Key'!

    I call B.S. it's Happy Holidays!
  6. brad

    Rammed Avanti!

    The kit Studebaker vendors supply consists of : 1 snap ring 2 retainer under the snap ring 3 rubber square scraper "O-ring" 4 plastic spacer under that 5 the main lip seal 6 an extra lip seal (unused) 7 a metal washer (also unused)
  7. brad

    Avanti 'Key'!

    There is no "pointed tip" There is a tapered end on one side only, and that should be INWARD TOWARDS THE AXLE. The slot for the key in the axle also curves at it's end, and the curve of the key should correspond to the axle keyway . NEVER EVER EVER PUT THE KEY WITH THE CURVE FACING UP. Also there is no reason to install the key on the axle until you have the drum in place. THEN tap the key into the keyway with the taper TOWARDS the axle, and only flush with the end of the hub. The reason is that you want the taper of the hub to seat on the taper if the axle shaft. If you install the key first, you risk it riding up the end curve of the key slot in the axle before the hub is fully seated.
  8. brad

    Rammed Avanti!

    false, they give extra parts
  9. Except for it will draw more current through the switch, which is already at it's limit. I would consider changing to LED bulbs to keep things from melting your switch or wires.
  10. Many times it rears its head when the mounts get all worn out. Make sure they are in good shape, and the transmission hasn't settled. Also make sure the spacer is under the drivers side mounting stud. If the trans has never been rebuilt previously use type F fluid. If it has been rebuilt then most likely it has the later replacement "paper" clutches, and requires Dexron.
  11. https://www.amazon.com/TCI-880023-Speedometer-Gear-Housing/dp/B012ZZZDTA/ref=pd_sbs_263_img_1/136-2767169-3670800?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012ZZZDTA&pd_rd_r=003edb41-dd3d-4dd6-bb11-8e41da8bd843&pd_rd_w=hfgW9&pd_rd_wg=dve0C&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=TY3KCQH9QR922D8GHKBJ&psc=1&refRID=TY3KCQH9QR922D8GHKBJ https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1956-1957-CHEVY-SPEEDOMETER-CABLE-4-Speed-or-Turbohydromatic-/151139003955
  12. The reach rod is adjustable on the control valve to the belcrank. If that is off, or the Pittman arm (with the control valve assy.) Installed without the steering box centered on the 1/2 travel high spot, it will travel too far one direction. I think that is what happened. If you look very carefully, there is an alignment mark on both the Pittman arm, and the splined shaft of the steering box. Line up the marks with the box at the 1/2 travel and you should be good to go.
  13. brad

    Reworked VS-57!

    As an aside, the last versions of the ball-drive superchargers (sn-93 and up), used a larger volume oil pump. The plunger is a larger diameter, (as well as the pump body). And is a good upgrade for the SN-60 blowers. Also, the bronze ball driver is much better than the aluminum ones.
  14. brad

    Reworked VS-57!

    Uneven ball size. (of the drive unit for all you gutter thinking people)
  15. Even if the drain holes were all plugged up the level of the vent opening is about 6" above the drain hole level, so that would take lots of water to fill up . It is also the hog troughs that the cowl drains into, and the top level of that (under the seat) is much lower than the cowl side vents, so truthfully, it is not possible to fill up the insides through the cowl. It would HAVE TO BE the door seals leaking, most likely the "A" pillar seals down in the corner.
  16. The pump is included in the kit. It puts out 60psi IIRC. The Sniper system includes programable parameters for anything you'll likely to encounter. It will control the timing if you use an electronic distributor with the vacuum, and mechanical timing locked out. I use one of Dave Thiebaults Pertronix distributors. A vacuum advance lock out for small hei GM distributors replaces the canister, and the for the mechanical advance, I removed the top and shaft, and clocked it 180 so the "pin in the slot" now goes into a hole drilled directly opposite. Then I used an MSD phasable rotor. That allows 20 degrees of rotation to phase the rotor directly in line with the #1 plug tower of the cap, when the timing is firing . All the timing is then handled by the computer. Which then goes to the coil, or ignition box. I use an MSD 6AL in this case. All the instructions are on line in videos, on Youtube by Holley. Yes, the car is setup with AC. a necessity around here in the summer. I eliminated the electric fan controller, and used the sniper to control the fans. All programable from the hand held included controller.. You will need to add the temperature sensor, and an O2 sensor (which is included in the kit).
  17. I have done the fuel injection, with a Holley Sniper system. It's pretty much plug and play. Includes the fuel pump. lines, and fittings, and both a pre-filter, and a filter after the pump. Also they make a progressive link so the secondaries open a little later. I haven't needed that with the supercharged engine, but a R1 might.
  18. I just replaced those cooling hoses on a 69 Avanti with AC. The original lacquered cloth hoses were totally rotted away. I use Washing machine drain hose, and the rubber end on it fits the factory fittings perfectly.
  19. I'm doing just that. Took a Pertronix from Dave Thiebault, and eliminated ALL advance, both vacuum, and mechanical locked out. Then got a phasable rotor from MSD, and set the initial advance of the dizzy to 15deg. Then center the rotor on the #1 tower. Hooked the distributor pickup to the Holley Sniper Electronic Fuel Injection, and that triggers the MSD 6Al ignition box. Timing is completely now programable and even boost retard if desired, and also nitrous oxide if so inclined.
  20. brad

    Avanti Window!

    I reinforce the opening that you put the regulator in the door. The stock door flexes from the regulator pivot down to that opening, and eventually cracks. I make up a steel strap, and rivet it both inside, and outside the opening on the perimeter lip. It stops flexing before it gets a chance to crack. If it is already cracked, then repair that first. (Not in the inside) you don't have room inside the door to reinforce the pivot area without it binding, or hitting the glass as it goes up and down. I like to use the later regulator motors that use the Jeep motors, and gear drive, and use Nu-Relics T-bird type switches and wiring. Much, much better than stock, and look identical. Half of the wiring crap to fit through the doors too. https://www.nu-relics.com/product-p/217.htm
  21. brad

    Avanti Bribe!

    It's currently for sale.
  22. Not the grand Cherokee. https://www.carparts.com/details/Jeep/Cherokee/Dorman/Window_Motor/1986/SET-RB742305-F.html?utm_source=connexity&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=affpla&TID=zlaaff
  23. I ran the R3 engine in the car I did in Georgia, with a comp cams 279degree .511 lift cam, and it was quite mild feeling . I never tried the more radicle 288. One must remember the larger displacement the engine the more duration cams have less effect on the idle . Huge engines can take more duration without being lumpy and not driveabe. As a side note that R3 engine made 405 hp.
  • Create New...