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Everything posted by brad

  1. You can rebuild the originals. Here is the best kit available. Carter High Performance X Fuel Pump Rebuild Kit - Dead Nuts On
  2. I use a body cart, and support the body at the hog troughs, and the front cowl body mount, also at the top of the rear wheel housing. I can remove the trough supports, and the front cowl and rear wheel well are sufficient to support the car. I haven't ever put one on a rotisserie, You can't support the car by the front as there would be enough stress to crack it.
  3. brad

    Avanti Seal!

    It is a dust cover to keep the air bleed hole clear. The purpose of the hole is to pressurize between the output shaft sealing rings to help seal in the oil.
  4. People always assume slotting the outer holes will get the adjustments they need. Not so. If you take note of where the actual pivot of the hinge is, it is closer to the INNER holes. That is where you need to slot and adjust things. I have had such poor quality control on the fitting of factory doors, that I have had to break apart the skin from the shell, and re-glue to get things to fit. they ae often twisted. Also take note if the inner fiberglass that the hinge bolts to is not cracked, and allowing movement. That is very common.
  5. It can be done. The difficulty is lining things back up to center the "pin" when driving in the new bushing. I have used a come-a-long, and a jack and done just that on several cars. Made a tedious job very quick.
  6. brad

    R1-R2 Heads!

    You probably can take at least 1/2 a point of compression by leaning back the point between the valves, and the shallow end of the chamber. Also some "unshrouding" of the sides on the upright walls. That and use the thicker composition gasket, and you would be there. It would most likely breath and perform better than stock R2, and be less prone to cracking that the R2 heads had.
  7. There is a s\connector hanging down in your next to last pic. The white plastic with the black locked connector is the dimmer switch. It should be mounted to the steering column and a rod from the turn signal stalk activates it. There is a dash light and gauge harness it has a large screw together connector located just at the upper edge of the drivers side console between the dash cross brace and the edge of the dash. I have the complete wiring diagrams for 87-89 cars.
  8. If you live below 3000ft. altitude, I have had great luck with this jet combination. (as a starting point....your results may vary) Out of the Edelbrock 600cfm zip kit......098 primary jets. 74-47 metering rods. Orange 4 in" Hg step up springs. Use .095 secondary jets.
  9. If one wanted to convert to a newer Edelbrock carb, the marine version is sealed and will work out of the box. If you want to convert an R1 AFB to an R2. I have done it with no consequences. I solder a brass nail through the floats to stiffen them up. Plug the top fuel bowl vents. Counter bore the idle mixture screw holes slightly for an "O-ring". Use the afore mentioned Edelbrock MARINE accelerator pump seal(throw the actual plunger away it doesn't fit) and use the factory plunger.
  10. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/ I second TCP global.
  11. Most kits are junk. They do not support the valves with a cage like the originals valves had. This is the ONLY kit I use, and they are perfect. https://www.deadnutson.com/carter-high-performance-x-fuel-pump-rebuild-kit/
  12. I think he was talking about the interior color. They were the same both years, and are a slight metallic. (just like the red interiors.) I think the differences you're seeing is the fading over time.
  13. brad

    ride height

    If you have the Stude shop manual, it gives the frame dimensions. (same frame). It's a good idea to have one because most everything except the drive train is the same, and it can help a bunch.
  14. No, If your pinion angle is 2 degrees up, then your trans yoke angle should be 2 degrees down. You ideally do not want a straight line in a drive line, you need some angle to grease the u-joints.
  15. brad

    Avanti R5361!

    I have a lot of original Avanti Lacquer in the original cans. I mixed them up, and the colors completely changed from new. The turquoise was very dark. Not at all like the original color. Just because you have an un-opened can don't assume it has been stored well, or even if it has, that the contents are the same as when it was put into the can!!!
  16. brad

    Paxton 'GSS'!

    There was also a gear drive unit also called the GSS, and they made about 50 or so. They were inside the same case, and looked identical. It used planetary gears, and they couldn't make them reliable, and it was the last iteration of the original case. They then went to the now familiar Novi gear drive units, that were basically engineered by Vortec. Paxton bought Vortec.
  17. I replace the rotten cloth hoses with drain hose from a washing machine, and the rubber adapter they include with the hose I secured with a hose clamp to the inside "stub". No leaks ever, even if you were to not have the "hat" deflector over the top of the tube. The other ends of the hose are directed through the console, and end up directing the air flow in front of the shifter, and not inside the car. So any water would fall to the top of the transmission, and out to the ground without getting into the interior. Make sure that the end of the hose is sealed so hot air doesn't get around the
  18. If you replace the springs back to the stock ride height, you should be fine. As the springs settled over the years, did you constantly change the shims between the bell housing and the motor mount? (of course not) If everything is as it was built, then you will have no problems. On Automatic transmission cars, there is one 3/8" spacer under the drivers side of transmission mount between the mount and the crossmember. On manual transmission cars there are two 1/2" spacers between the bell housing, and the top of the mount. You will never need to change them. If you develop a vibration, th
  19. You have the rubber twisted, and the top stainless is not in the correct channel. You install the glass and the stainless as a unit. That is the rubber, and glass, and stainless are assembled on the bench before you install it in the car. Also, in the pictures, the rubber is not over the lip inside the car.
  20. SI found some earlier this year, and Emailed me to identify them.
  21. If the interior "A" pillar vinyl is too thick at the seam, it will prevent the gasket, and thus the windshield from seating in the upper corner. Also, make absolutely sure that it is glued down firmly, and the process of roping in the rubber doesn't bunch it up.
  22. The gauge is a bourdin tube with a linkage to the needle. The link pivots lube dries out, and need cleaned and lubed. You could access it through the lighting hole, but most likely would get the glass and face all dirty. I repair them all the time. $150
  23. Probably worn, an old trick is to put a button head screw in the striker where it pushes in on the "tooth" on the latch further when the door is latched. You can see the tooth at the bottom on the latch, it is the thinner sheet-metal piece, that controls the lock part. You can test the theory by depressing it manually, and then trying it.
  24. Ones with York compressors take close to 3 lbs. If you do a R134 conversion, usually I start about 1 lb 10 oz. Then check the gauges, and vent temps.
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