63 R1 Clutch

[63stick]

I'm restoring one of my Avanti's. The factory shop manual says, It uses a 12 spring pressure plate with the 4 speed trans. Mine, which is all original has a 9 spring pressure plate. Later build, 63R 3186. I have heard there was some problems with the Z bracket welded to the frame with a 12 spring. Could they have changed them to 9 spring later on. I plan on putting in a 9 spring when I reassemble it. Not planning on Drag racing it. Was just curious. 

[mfg]

3 hours ago, 63stick said:

I'm restoring one of my Avanti's. The factory shop manual says, It uses a 12 spring pressure plate with the 4 speed trans. Mine, which is all original has a 9 spring pressure plate. Later build, 63R 3186. I have heard there was some problems with the Z bracket welded to the frame with a 12 spring. Could they have changed them to 9 spring later on. I plan on putting in a 9 spring when I reassemble it. Not planning on Drag racing it. Was just curious. 

I can tell you that when Studebaker went to a suspended clutch pedal, beginning with their 1961 Lark models, it wasn’t a great system… it unfortunately has a few weak points which have shown up over the years…..

I’d go with the lighter spring  pressure plate if you don’t plan on drag racing… The clutch linkage in your Avanti will thank you and your left leg will thank you!!

Good luck!

[Guy]

Id like to know specifically what are the weak points in the clutch pedal linkage?

[mfg]

1 hour ago, Guy said:

Id like to know specifically what are the weak points in the clutch pedal linkage?

Probably the biggest culprit is the adjustable clutch push rod which connects the clutch linkage bellcrank to the clutch operating shaft… proven to be too weak and actually bendable under compression when in regular use… even with a ‘normal’ pressure plate..

Another Achilles Heel is the clutch operating shaft’s outer support bracket, which is welded to the frame side rail…. That part has been known to weaken over time and tear off of the frame. (sometimes weld fails) This failure has shown up with normal and high performance pressure plates…..

Not unique to the suspended system, but sometimes showing up in all Studebaker clutch release systems are the pressed on release fingers, which are located on the release shaft and press against the release bearing, loosening and rotating out of position… These two release fingers should ALWAYS be electric welded to the release shaft whenever a clutch job is done on these cars. (as a bulletproof supplement to the factory press fit)

 

[Gunslinger]

I doubt if Studebaker intended or cared about such issues so far into the future…there was never a thought about these cars still being on the road sixty plus years later.  I doubt if any car maker did…any words to that effect were nothing but ad copy.

[mfg]

24 minutes ago, Gunslinger said:

I doubt if Studebaker intended or cared about such issues so far into the future…there was never a thought about these cars still being on the road sixty plus years later.  I doubt if any car maker did…any words to that effect were nothing but ad copy.

It’s neither here nor there… but for Studebaker  to have to change over a ‘near bulletproof’ clutch release system, as found on, for example, a ‘63 G.T. Hawk, to a ‘complicated mousetrap’, as the Stude suspended clutch pedal system really is, was too bad….

I realize, of course, that the ‘thru the floor’ clutch pedal was considered ancient history and VERY dated by 1961!

[63stick]

Well, I'm defiantly going with the 9 spring. Someone told me that when the motor mounts would get tired, when you depressed the clutch, the drive train would shift forward causing the frame mount to have a lot more strain put on it. I may install a cable from the trans to the cross member, which would limit forward movement if needed. Don't want to even think about getting in there to repair frame mount clutch bracket.

Has anybody had the throw out bearing fingers on the clutch shaft loosen up. I can stop at my fabricator when car is on the way to the paint shop and have him tack them.

Does anybody make a stronger clutch adjusting rod.

Thank you for the input.

[mfg]

14 hours ago, 63stick said:

Well, I'm defiantly going with the 9 spring. Someone told me that when the motor mounts would get tired, when you depressed the clutch, the drive train would shift forward causing the frame mount to have a lot more strain put on it. I may install a cable from the trans to the cross member, which would limit forward movement if needed. Don't want to even think about getting in there to repair frame mount clutch bracket.

 I don’t think working the clutch pedal would cause any movement of the engine/trans, no matter how ‘tired’ the engine mounts were. (unless maybe if you were using an EXTREMELY strong pressure plate, but even then I doubt it) Also, there is so much ‘wiggle room’ between the frame release shaft bracket and the clutch housing that any forward movement of the engine/trans wouldn’t effect that welded on frame bracket. It’s the strain on that bracket from you pushing the clutch pedal down that sometimes causes it to fail.

[John C]

If your not concerned with 0riginality put in a Centerforce diaphram clutch. The pedal is very easy on your leg and the clutch hooks up hard and quick. I've got one in a 62 fuel injected Vette and I fell in love with it. I was not concerned with it being original though.

                                                                                                                                                Best of luck, John C.

[Gunslinger]

Drivers today...the few that have manual transmission vehicles...are so used to hydraulic clutches they would think there's something wrong with a car of that era when pushing in on the clutch.

A friend who owns a 2008 Mustang Bullitt Edition tried the '69 Corvette 427/435hp I owned and was shocked at the difference in effort to press in the clutch.  He had forgotten how cars of that era drove.