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1983 RBQ-3616 Dropping Frame???


SCPO-PD

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I pulled the Proportioning Valve this evening and am now playing the game to replace.  I think that I may have found one (PV2).  I also found that the brake line kit that I purchased from Avanti Parts & Restoration doesn't seem to match what I have on my car to include the multiple fitting sizes of the proportioning valve (all the fittings are identical)

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #1.jpg

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Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #4.jpg

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Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #6.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #7.jpg

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7 hours ago, SCPO-PD said:

I pulled the Proportioning Valve this evening and am now playing the game to replace.  I think that I may have found one (PV2).  I also found that the brake line kit that I purchased from Avanti Parts & Restoration doesn't seem to match what I have on my car to include the multiple fitting sizes of the proportioning valve (all the fittings are identical)

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #1.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #2.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #3.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #4.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #5.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #6.jpg

Brake Proportioning Valve Day 1 #7.jpg

You might be in luck- The internal parts that are coming out look way less filthy than I expected.  Bear in mind that you will need to use a dummy switch to prevent the shuttle valve moving when you bleed the system on installation.

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Zedman - please explain the dummy switch....

On 3/24/2023 at 5:30 AM, Zedman said:

You might be in luck- The internal parts that are coming out look way less filthy than I expected.  Bear in mind that you will need to use a dummy switch to prevent the shuttle valve moving when you bleed the system on installation.

 

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Took another look at the Proportioning Valve and got it all taken apart.  All of the rubber, plastic, springs, etc are all intact.  I got everything cleaned up and pre-assembled.  I think it will be just fine. 

After the gaff with receiving the wrong brake lines I have decided to inspect & flush the old ones out and address any needs.  I also pulled the old master cylinder as I got my new one in.  Thinking I should have ordered a new power booster based upon the rust & grunge that I found at the mating flange.  However I think a wire brush, cleaner, elbow grease, and some primer & paint will carry me a long way.  Gotta get hold of the scope creep as May 6th isn't that far away.

No pictures this time but I do need to get RQB-3616 up in the air so that I can get the 40yrs of dirt and grime off of her. 

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11 hours ago, SCPO-PD said:

Zedman - please explain the dummy switch....

 

When bleeding your brakes from 'empty' the shuttle valve (did you remove this part when cleaning BTW?) in the middle of your proportioning valve senses this condition as a brake system failure to the either the fronts or rears. The shuttle valve then moves either one way or the other (depending on whether you're bleeding fronts or rears) in an effort to stream the brake effort to the brakes that are operable. This will make it impossible to properly bleed your brakes. The pressure switch on top of the Proportioning valve is temporarily replaced with a "dummy switch" that fits the groove in the middle of the shuttle valve. Instead of having a movable pintle to switch the warning light 'on', it has a solid pin that prevents the shuttle valve moving at all- thereby 'fooling' the valve and allowing purging of air from the brake lines.

 A better explanation is here (showing a cutaway K-H valve no less) and a picture of the Dummy included...

https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/product_info.php/products_id/11952

Lots of dummy switches are available so don't pay big bucks for 'em !

 

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Turner Disc Brake Conversion Complete on RQB 3616.  I also took a pressure washer to the undercarriage, flushed all of the front brake lines with brake cleaner, and reinstalled the Proportioning Valve and hooked up all of the front brake lines and those coming from the master cylinder. 

Turner Conversion Day 1 #1.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 1 #2.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 1 #3.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 2 #1.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 2 #2.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 2 #3.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 2 #4.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 2 #5.jpg

Turner Conversion Day 2 #6.jpg

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3 hours ago, Footer said:

Did the spacers go on ok?  Did you heat them?  Mike

They went on well and with no problem.  I did not need to heat them up but did go to Lowe's to purchase another torch because I lost track of mine some years ago.  I tried the driver side first with a pipe and 24oz ball peen hammer - the spacer started going on.  It was sitting flush after 7-8 blows.  The passenger side spacer was flush with 3-4 blows.  I actually had more problems getting the dust caps on then the spacers....

Edited by SCPO-PD
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Well - I had a chance to dive into the Rear Brake Re-work...   I got the driver side complete this evening.  Things went well - Especially considering I haven't reworked drum brakes in close to 30 yrs.....  I need to clean the drum and paint it but not today as it is raining.  I did brake the brake line going into the cylinder but no worries as I had a new one purchased and ready to go.  

Rear Brake Day #1 #1.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #2.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #3.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #4.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #5.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #6.jpg

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Changing Things up this post....

I am seeking information on (of all things) - Glove Box Hardware.  One of RQB 3616's previous owners punched out the glove box lock and broke one of the 2 hinges.  I have been unable to find anything on these pieces anywhere on the web.

Does anyone have any trees that I can bark up?

I also need a gas cap lock (I saw one for $50 + shipping but it doesn't look any different than some of the toolbox/desk locks that I can pick up MUCH cheaper.)

Thanks for the help....

On the Break Drum that goes with the above pic.....  It has been sitting in a bucket of Evapo-Rust overnight.  We will see what it looks like when I get home.

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On 4/8/2023 at 8:37 AM, SCPO-PD said:

Well - I had a chance to dive into the Rear Brake Re-work...   I got the driver side complete this evening.  Things went well - Especially considering I haven't reworked drum brakes in close to 30 yrs.....  I need to clean the drum and paint it but not today as it is raining.  I did brake the brake line going into the cylinder but no worries as I had a new one purchased and ready to go.  

Rear Brake Day #1 #1.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #2.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #3.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #4.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #5.jpg

Rear Brake Day #1 #6.jpg

I'm aware of your time crunch, but while you have the brakes open, do take the opportunity to wire wheel all the bits and apply a coat of paint if you can.  Did this about 6 months ago and it only takes about half an hour per side (including the Backing Plate whilst still on the Axle and 1/4" flange spacer).  You'll be glad you did ! I use a combination of pedestal grinder mounted 8" wire wheel and another in a 4" angle grinder and can vouch for their effectiveness. Phosphating also helps.

Edited by Zedman
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Did you try Nostalgic for glove box hinges?  On my gas door, I removed the latch on the inside so it can’t lock. I don’t leave the car anyplace that might tempt gas thieves, and if it did happen, I would rather lose a few gallons of gas than have to repair a door that was damaged with a pry bar. Mike

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12 hours ago, Zedman said:

I'm aware of your time crunch, but while you have the brakes open, do take the opportunity to wire wheel all the bits and apply a coat of paint if you can.  Did this about 6 months ago and it only takes about half an hour per side (including the Backing Plate whilst still on the Axle and 1/4" flange spacer).  You'll be glad you did ! I use a combination of pedestal grinder mounted 8" wire wheel and another in a 4" angle grinder and can vouch for their effectiveness. Phosphating also helps.

Zedman - I actually have the drum sitting in a couple gallons of Evapo-Rust (Checking to see if it is worth the $$).  I also have a couple cans caliper paint along with a gallon of Klean Strip metal prep that I am going to rework the initial brake with before I attack the remaining one.  I would like to be done with the brake rework this weekend so that I can get the the bleeding....

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2 hours ago, Footer said:

Did you try Nostalgic for glove box hinges?  On my gas door, I removed the latch on the inside so it can’t lock. I don’t leave the car anyplace that might tempt gas thieves, and if it did happen, I would rather lose a few gallons of gas than have to repair a door that was damaged with a pry bar. Mike

I need to give him a call.  I didn't see a email address on the page but I am sure that there is one because I think that he and I have chatted briefly about a couple of purchases that I have made.

I am going to look around to see what i can find in my collection of junk concerning locks for the gas  cap door.

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One rear brake complete the correct way - cleaned and painted w/ caliper paint.  The other brake parts are sitting in my tub of Evapo-rust along w/ the hinges from my glove box. 

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #1.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #2.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #3.jpg

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Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #5.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #6.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 2 #1.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 2 #2.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 2 #3.jpg

Edited by SCPO-PD
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Finished the right rear brake, installed the rear shocks, & reworked a broken hinge for the glove box.  (I had to rework the Driver Side Rear Brake for a 3rd time as I didn't pay attention to the long shoe....) Got to make a repair to the rear brake line and start the bleeding!!!!

Gove Box Hinge Rebuild #1.jpg

Gove Box Hinge Rebuild #2.jpg

Rear Brake & Shocks Day 3 #1.jpg

Rear Brake & Shocks Day 3 #2.jpg

Rear Brake & Shocks Day 3 #3.jpg

Rear Brake & Shocks Day 3 #4.jpg

Rear Brake & Shocks Day 3 #5.jpg

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On 4/14/2023 at 6:56 AM, SCPO-PD said:

One rear brake complete the correct way - cleaned and painted w/ caliper paint.  The other brake parts are sitting in my tub of Evapo-rust along w/ the hinges from my glove box. 

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #1.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #2.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #3.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #4.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #5.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 1 #6.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 2 #1.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 2 #2.jpg

Rear Brake Right Way Day 2 #3.jpg

 

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Well done on your efforts so far- I for one appreciate the photos. I note the surface rust on the Frame and everything else. I have replaced all my steel Fuel Lines as well because of salt corrosion. One line actually broke in half because it was so badly corroded. You might want to check 'em while you're at it.👌. After you attend the meet are you considering lifting the body to clean up the Chassis?

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13 hours ago, Zedman said:

Well done on your efforts so far- I for one appreciate the photos. I note the surface rust on the Frame and everything else. I have replaced all my steel Fuel Lines as well because of salt corrosion. One line actually broke in half because it was so badly corroded. You might want to check 'em while you're at it.👌. After you attend the meet are you considering lifting the body to clean up the Chassis?

That is the current game plan.  I just received my set of QuickJack 7000 car lifts to get RQB 3616 up off the ground (2+ ft) so that I can better degrease, pressure wash, phosphate treat, & painting the frame.  

I have looked at the brake lines and actually ordered a set of replacements but they were for the 63/64 Studebakers and not 65-83 models.....  I returned them and got the shocks and a few other items.  All of the current lines (minus the rear lines along the axle seem to look pretty good.  I have flushed them all out w/ brake cleaner as noted above (I think).  I do need to replace the line feeding the rear driver side drum as I twisted it off while trying to disconnect at the cylinder.  Going to hit the parts store on the way home to see what I can find.  Fingers crossed......

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11 hours ago, SCPO-PD said:

That is the current game plan.  I just received my set of QuickJack 7000 car lifts to get RQB 3616 up off the ground (2+ ft) so that I can better degrease, pressure wash, phosphate treat, & painting the frame.  

I have looked at the brake lines and actually ordered a set of replacements but they were for the 63/64 Studebakers and not 65-83 models.....  I returned them and got the shocks and a few other items.  All of the current lines (minus the rear lines along the axle seem to look pretty good.  I have flushed them all out w/ brake cleaner as noted above (I think).  I do need to replace the line feeding the rear driver side drum as I twisted it off while trying to disconnect at the cylinder.  Going to hit the parts store on the way home to see what I can find.  Fingers crossed......

Grab a set of line wrenches if you don't already have 'em- these are dead set invaluable.  So I take it you have decided to not remove the Frame, which is a fair call.  You are up for a heap of dirty work under there, but the reward will be enormous.  I was given some 'Action Gel' to try, on the proviso I reported back to the supplier on its efficacy. This stuff clings, works exceptionally well and I can recommend it. However the fellow on this link has a great idea to thicken  Phosphoric acid if you already have  a lot of Evaporust....

PS on the QuickJacks - I hope you have seen some of the many videos warning of 'false locking' of these units. Please do employ a good set of Jackstands or block it up.

 

Edited by Zedman
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Well..... I noted some surface rust on the NEW front brake calipers this last Tuesday so I attacked them and primed & painted them. Pictures to follow. I also attempted to connect the lines and ended up snapping one of the lines. While the lines are clean and solid... The connections are rusted. Most have broken free with brake free and muscle BUT I have found 2 that simply broke. So I have learned how to make double flange brake lines and bend them to fit. Pictures to follow...... Lord willing I will button the brakes up tomorrow (Friday) so that I can get to the bleeding.

 

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